D shaped forks and Giant TCR
Moderator: robbosmans
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I do not like the idea of having cables routed form the side and then squashed as with defy-propel stem.
I stumbled on Syncros internally routed stem. Idea is not the same but it's seems possible to route the cables to the steerer. Tho need to order one to see if there is enough space between the cover and the stem body. Even if not it looks possible to make completely new cover as it not part of the structure. Plus the stem can be completely removed with cables in place which seems like a great idea when everything is routed and connected together. Hopefully lover part of the stem won’t protrude outside front of the frame when mounted.
https://assets.scott-sports.com/pages/a ... 68x460.jpg
https://www.syncros.com/ch/en/product/s ... r-1-5-stem
I stumbled on Syncros internally routed stem. Idea is not the same but it's seems possible to route the cables to the steerer. Tho need to order one to see if there is enough space between the cover and the stem body. Even if not it looks possible to make completely new cover as it not part of the structure. Plus the stem can be completely removed with cables in place which seems like a great idea when everything is routed and connected together. Hopefully lover part of the stem won’t protrude outside front of the frame when mounted.
https://assets.scott-sports.com/pages/a ... 68x460.jpg
https://www.syncros.com/ch/en/product/s ... r-1-5-stem
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That's a great looking bike
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After frustration of not being able to find the right stem/bar for this project and actually receiving all the frame parts it turned out the fork is also available but with steerer cut very short. So after talking to a boat repair shop I came to final decision for this project.
I'll fabricated an extender for the steerer tube that will be glued inside existing steerer tube. Cables will be routed inside the bearing due to D shape of the aluminium insert. At the beginning I was a bit sceptical to do this, but was told if done properly with correct epoxy there should be zero issues with this style of execution.
I'll fabricated an extender for the steerer tube that will be glued inside existing steerer tube. Cables will be routed inside the bearing due to D shape of the aluminium insert. At the beginning I was a bit sceptical to do this, but was told if done properly with correct epoxy there should be zero issues with this style of execution.
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Colnago arabesque campagnolo super record 12
Colnago c64
Cinelli zydeco grx di2
Colnago c64
Cinelli zydeco grx di2
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The C64 uses a D-shaped fork steerer so it won't fit the expander
The only OD1 expander that can fit two hoses without modification is Elilee's
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StiffWeenies wrote: ↑Tue Aug 23, 2022 7:35 pmConverting the '17-20 and '21-23(?) TCR Advanced SL/Pro (OD2) to fully internal routing can be done. You can also use the TCR Advanced (OD1) but you'd need to change the headset to accept the new OD2 fork. This method can also be used to convert the '15-16 (PM, QR) and '17-18 (FM, TA) Defy Advanced SL/Pro (OD2) and Advanced (OD1). Ditto for the Liv Langma and Avail counterparts of TCR and Defy.
Here's what is needed:
1. electronic groupset, preferably semi-wireless or wireless
2. hydraulic brakes, hydromechanical and mechanical won't work with all the cable bends
3. '19 or '20 Defy Advanced Pro (OD2) fork, '21 and beyond switched back to external routing. Make sure that the fork is from the Advanced Pro as the standard Advanced is OD1. Propel forks theorectically work but it'll be quite ugly and I'm not sure if they'll fit right at the headtube/fork crown.
4. hollow expander, either Giant AirCap (OD2) or Elilee (OD2 & OD1 versions)
5. OD2 compatible cockpit that supports true ACR style front fork hose steerer routing, either Pro Vibe Evo or Rollingstone Classic 2.0 (not 1.0!!)
Here's how it works:
1. There is absolutely no need to cut holes in the steerer, holes cut from the factory are reinforced so cutting an unreinforced hole at the most stressed part of the fork is just playing a dangerous game.
2. The stock '19-20 Defy and '18-22 Propel forks have a factory cut hole at the back of the steerer ('23 Propel switched to the front). These two bikes' internal routing work by using the hole to route the front brake hose from the caliper to the steerer hole where it'd leave the fork to exit out of the frame in an opening behind the headset.
3. Because the TCR has no such behind headset opening, you have to creatively re-use the fork steerer hole for another purpose. Instead of routing the front hose out of it, you route the rear brake hose into the hole along with your Di2/EPS wire should you require it. The front fork hose stays internal and doesn't exit the fork at this point.
4. Together with the front brake hose, the rear brake hose and electronic wire will all exit at the top of the steerer. This is where true ACR style fork hose routing comes into play (as implemented on Bianchi and Cinelli) where the fork hose comes out of the steerer and into the stem. Here, two hoses and a wire are passing through instead of just one. This is also why OD2 is needed, as regular OD1 size ACR expanders can fit just one hose (except for Elilee's which is bascially impossible to get outside of China). You will be stuck with the Giant AirCap and its weird gluing installation method which is not ideal.
5. Now that the hoses and cables are fed into the stem, you will route and assemble the cockpit as one would on any other bike.
Sample pics from Tieba:
acr is not compatible OD2
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can i ask which steerer plug this is to be exact?StiffWeenies wrote: ↑Tue Aug 23, 2022 7:35 pmConverting the '17-20 and '21-23(?) TCR Advanced SL/Pro (OD2) to fully internal routing can be done. You can also use the TCR Advanced (OD1) but you'd need to change the headset to accept the new OD2 fork. This method can also be used to convert the '15-16 (PM, QR) and '17-18 (FM, TA) Defy Advanced SL/Pro (OD2) and Advanced (OD1). Ditto for the Liv Langma and Avail counterparts of TCR and Defy.
Here's what is needed:
1. electronic groupset, preferably semi-wireless or wireless
2. hydraulic brakes, hydromechanical and mechanical won't work with all the cable bends
3. '19 or '20 Defy Advanced Pro (OD2) fork, '21 and beyond switched back to external routing. Make sure that the fork is from the Advanced Pro as the standard Advanced is OD1. Propel forks theorectically work but it'll be quite ugly and I'm not sure if they'll fit right at the headtube/fork crown.
4. hollow expander, either Giant AirCap (OD2) or Elilee (OD2 & OD1 versions)
5. OD2 compatible cockpit that supports true ACR style front fork hose steerer routing, either Pro Vibe Evo or Rollingstone Classic 2.0 (not 1.0!!)
Here's how it works:
1. There is absolutely no need to cut holes in the steerer, holes cut from the factory are reinforced so cutting an unreinforced hole at the most stressed part of the fork is just playing a dangerous game.
2. The stock '19-20 Defy and '18-22 Propel forks have a factory cut hole at the back of the steerer ('23 Propel switched to the front). These two bikes' internal routing work by using the hole to route the front brake hose from the caliper to the steerer hole where it'd leave the fork to exit out of the frame in an opening behind the headset.
3. Because the TCR has no such behind headset opening, you have to creatively re-use the fork steerer hole for another purpose. Instead of routing the front hose out of it, you route the rear brake hose into the hole along with your Di2/EPS wire should you require it. The front fork hose stays internal and doesn't exit the fork at this point.
4. Together with the front brake hose, the rear brake hose and electronic wire will all exit at the top of the steerer. This is where true ACR style fork hose routing comes into play (as implemented on Bianchi and Cinelli) where the fork hose comes out of the steerer and into the stem. Here, two hoses and a wire are passing through instead of just one. This is also why OD2 is needed, as regular OD1 size ACR expanders can fit just one hose (except for Elilee's which is bascially impossible to get outside of China). You will be stuck with the Giant AirCap and its weird gluing installation method which is not ideal.
5. Now that the hoses and cables are fed into the stem, you will route and assemble the cockpit as one would on any other bike.
Sample pics from Tieba: