Sram Red22 Crank coming loose

[jenk]

Hi WW,

I have installed a sram red 22 (mech) crankset where the crank is connected on the drive side. When I install it I take care to torque it up to the 54nm that is specified and the last 2 times I have ridden I have noticed that by the time I get home the crank has become lose, so again i torque it up and try again, last time I figured I am either doing something wrong or there is an issue somewhere.

Has anyone experienced this issue? If so what do you do to fix this?
Also an expected fix may be some lock tight on the thread but id like to avoid that as it may not be the correct fix, or is it?

It is rather annoying knowing that potentially somewhere on my ride I may end up with a rhs crank in my hand and this is not so desirable to me.

Cheers all

[PoorCyclist]

Gxp. Bb30. Pf30? Which one?

When you say loose is it side to side. Or ?

[TobinHatesYou]

If it's GXP, it doesn't matter if you've torqued it all the way to 54n-m if there is play in the NDS bearing.

[jenk]

If it's GXP, it doesn't matter if you've torqued it all the way to 54n-m if there is play in the NDS bearing.

I forgot to add its bb30, my gxp crank never had this issue with it, but good thing to look at again to double check

[TobinHatesYou]

I forgot to add its bb30, my gxp crank never had this issue with it, but good thing to look at again to double check

Really hard to imagine the bolt is backing out with the self-extracting cap in place. 54n-m is a shitload.

[Karvalo]

I forgot to add its bb30, my gxp crank never had this issue with it, but good thing to look at again to double check

Really hard to imagine the bolt is backing out with the self-extracting cap in place. 54n-m is a shitload.

Right. Is the bolt definitely coming loose or is it actually something to do with preload?

[robbosmans]

The removal of sram cranks require a 2m long breaker bar to loosen them. So something else is wrong I think

[jenk]

trust me I am baffled too, I use the breaker bar and a a digital torque adapter so i can confirm 54nm, the preload is set as far as i can see to be correct, I guess my only option now is to undo the preload, re torque, then set the preload and see if that works, not sure if that is the correct order but its worth a shot

[PoorCyclist]

Is this original bb30 crank or long spindle one? I think long spindle one need extra spacers to fit bb30 frames

I would take it out remove the grease and take a look at the threads and splines. Sounds like it may be stripped.

Take a look and make sure the bearing is not moving sideways or loose.

[ChiZ01]

what do you mean by loose, loose as in the bolt of is undone?

[jenk]

Is this original bb30 crank or long spindle one? I think long spindle one need extra spacers to fit bb30 frames

I would take it out remove the grease and take a look at the threads and splines. Sounds like it may be stripped.

Take a look and make sure the bearing is not moving sideways or loose.

All double checked, Thread is perfect mate, Infact it's a near brand new crank. But there was a little too much copper slip from the previous owner. I cleaned that one out and I'll test when it's dry outside. I think that's the issue

Thankyou

[jenk]

what do you mean by loose, loose as in the bolt of is undone?

I'll go for a 20km ride and come home and the crank is wobbling on the spline. When I get home I can hand tighten it it's that loose.