what crankset (Campagnolo Groupset)

[moock]

Guys, I currently wait for the release of the new Cervelo Soloist and im already planning the build.
I want to go Campagnolo Chorus but this time with powermeter.
Dura Ace pedals are a must, as i want lowest stack height AND creak free, durable pedals.

Right now i am open for the following two options:

p2m with rotor aldhu + Rotor or Praxis chainrings
+cheaper (~740€ without chainrings)
+infinite BB options (I prefer thread together)
-less complete Campagolo look
-worse shifting because of non original chainrings and chainline (?)

p2m with campagnolo 12 crankarm
+better /more complete look
+propably better shifting due to better chainline and chainrings
-much more epensive (1390€ without chainrings)
-less BB options (I am worried about creaks, as my Allez Sprint and Factor O2 were horribly creaking)
+-I could machine my own thread together but I do not have the numbers for the correct axle length and I do not know the fit tolerances

additional Info:
I never used a campagnolo Crankset before.
Right now I run Chorus groupset with SR chain and casette, and Rotor Aldhu crankset. The Shifting is really good, besides from rare (5-10%) chaindrops when shifting to the big ring. I cant compare to shifting on original rings...


For the rest of the build I want to go with WTO wheelset and FSA finishing kit.

I do not know if it is worth to me to pay so much more just (?) for the looks.
Opinions?

[Zakalwe]

You should be having 0% dropped chains

[moock]

You should be having 0% dropped chains

bad setup or rotor rings?
It happens when shifting under load and low cadence. I actually dont know if i am at the higher or lower end of the casette when it happens

[bobones]

You should be having 0% dropped chains

bad setup or rotor rings?
It happens when shifting under load and low cadence. I actually dont know if i am at the higher or lower end of the casette when it happens

If it's only happening under load, it could be related to flex somewhere (frame, rings etc). It's also worth checking that your rings aren't warped (eyeball rotation through the cage from above) and that there's no side-side play of the crank at the BB. Verify the chainline if you can.

If it's just the setup, you might be able to fix it in the workstand. Basically, do 10 or more front shifts in quick succession at different areas of the cassette (even every cog if needs be) as you turn the pedals. If you find any cogs that have a tendency to produce an overshift, then bring the FD cage inboard a miniscule amount (using cable tension or limit screw) until it stops over shifting there. If you can't get this working without affecting some other aspect of front shifting, then start the FD setup from scratch, verifying correct height, alignment, limit screw settings and cable tension.

[Karvalo]

The Shifting is really good, besides from rare (5-10%) chaindrops when shifting to the big ring. I cant compare to shifting on original rings...

Dropping a chain 5% of the time is an enormous amount of dropped chains. Dropping a chain 10% of the time is a flat out unrideable bike.

[blaugrana]

With the previous generation (11 speed) Campagnolo cranks, the "cheap" option was Stages, but now it seems they only ofer the Super Record version for 12 speed, so it ends up costing about the same as the P2M (and with slightly worse accuracy). It's sad because it ruins the unique look of the Campagnolo groupset, but I would probably go with the Rotor option in this situation.

It's a bit sad that it's still so hard to find good powermeter options for Campagnolo that aren't priced in SRM territory or require going with third party cranks.

[moock]

With the previous generation (11 speed) Campagnolo cranks, the "cheap" option was Stages, but now it seems they only ofer the Super Record version for 12 speed, so it ends up costing about the same as the P2M (and with slightly worse accuracy). It's sad because it ruins the unique look of the Campagnolo groupset, but I would probably go with the Rotor option in this situation.

It's a bit sad that it's still so hard to find good powermeter options for Campagnolo that aren't priced in SRM territory or require going with third party cranks.

I dont understand the pricing at all... p2m ngeco is 490€ . complete sr crankset is 650€ = 1140 total... p2m is charging for their campa crankset (without chainrings) 350€ more...

[moock]

You should be having 0% dropped chains

bad setup or rotor rings?
It happens when shifting under load and low cadence. I actually dont know if i am at the higher or lower end of the casette when it happens

If it's only happening under load, it could be related to flex somewhere (frame, rings etc). It's also worth checking that your rings aren't warped (eyeball rotation through the cage from above) and that there's no side-side play of the crank at the BB. Verify the chainline if you can.

If it's just the setup, you might be able to fix it in the workstand. Basically, do 10 or more front shifts in quick succession at different areas of the cassette (even every cog if needs be) as you turn the pedals. If you find any cogs that have a tendency to produce an overshift, then bring the FD cage inboard a miniscule amount (using cable tension or limit screw) until it stops over shifting there. If you can't get this working without affecting some other aspect of front shifting, then start the FD setup from scratch, verifying correct height, alignment, limit screw settings and cable tension.

There is no play between BB and the crankset. Also the rings are not warped. The frame is actually mega soft. (Factor O2 size 58). Thats also the main reason I want a Cervelo...

[blaugrana]

I dont understand the pricing at all... p2m ngeco is 490€ . complete sr crankset is 650€ = 1140 total... p2m is charging for their campa crankset (without chainrings) 350€ more...

I suppose that Campagnolo charges a lot to sell them their cranks to modify, and that then the manufacturing is more complex than their standard removable spider design. It was aso very expensive a few years ago with the previous generation Campagnolo, and I ended up buying a cheap Stages crankarm on sale (I wanted to add a powermeter to a Chorus 11s equipped bike). But that got more expensive now without the option to get the Chorus or Record ones.

I also didn't want to give up the Shimano pedals, which is what makes everything more complicated. Otherwise just getting the Favero power meter pedals would be the logical solution.

[moock]

By the way I just noticed that I would not need to buy Aldhu as I already have mine... facepalm.. so another 200€ cheaper not going campa.

But the looks... not sure

[moock]

no opinion on the look of rotor + campa ?

[Pierre86]

Use the campy native rings a they're designed for 12spd and your rotor rings aren't, probably the reason for the chain drops. I'll be going P2M when my record build is done as that's the most reasonable option for 12 speed.

[c60rider]

There's no question that using a power meter will hugely enhance your training effect when used correctly but it's also a large price outlay. Campagnolo options are expensive as I think Campagnolo charge a lot for the cranks. I have 2 x P2M power meters on bikes and I wouldn't use any other chainrings with Campagnolo now. My first power meter was a Sram/Quarq 10 that I used with 11 speed Campag as I could get it less than half the price of Campag options. I use that on an indoor bike these days but I've found power meters to be invaluable so I was happy to spend more on later power meters but not the crazy Srm options. The front mech changing on the Campag never drops whereas on the the Quarq I have to be careful it very occasionally drops straight off big ring and misses the small when changing down. So if budget or being unsure if using power is for you then I would recommend going cheap in the first instance. It will work well but not perfectly as Campag will. You can always upgrade to Campag power meter later. Personal experience of Stages on Campag was really poor so personally I wouldn't buy that again.

[rudye9mr]

Would 4iiii put a PM on a mailed in crankarm?

[Yoln]

My 2cts

- I have riden a SR 11 with Quarq (praxis, extradite and spécialité chainrings) and P2M FSA crankset. It's always been disappointing shifting wise. Even with the best setting I never managed to be drop free 100%. And had a couple notable race chain drop issues...

- eventually switched to 4iiii on SR12 crankset and never had a chain drop again.

- 4iiii works just as well as anything else for me

TLDR; 1: stick to a campy crankset and campy chainrings with campy groupset. 2: 4iiii/stages are very good stuff