Solution: puncture the tire and inject it through the hole!spartacus wrote:So you can't put it through the valve and you're not supposed to use an air compressor? wtf?
Silca Ultimate Tubeless Sealant
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There can be all of the reasons in this world, but one shouldn't be a chemist in order to get this to work.cat4forlife wrote: ↑Fri Jun 17, 2022 6:17 pmHow had the tire been inflated? Air compressor? I had been exclusively using an air compressor to inflate my tires. Introducing moist acidic air into the tire - because of moisture in the air compressor tank - and lowering the pH of the sealant was one of the reasons given by Silca when i emailed them with photos of lumps of pellets. The other given reasons were the sealant having too much carbon fiber or the sealant losing some of its carrier. The sealant having too much carbon fiber does not make sense to me. If pH of the sealant being lowered was the reason, then sensitivity of the sealant to changes in pH worries me.whataboutEee wrote: ↑Fri Jun 17, 2022 6:02 pmHad to replace my rear tire today and there was still plenty of liquid left in it (pirelli p zero race tlr, brand new tire when I mounted it). However, all the carbon was in one big clump stuck to the tire. The best I can tell it wasn't a puncture. Now I'm wondering how effective it is long term with the added replenisher. If the carbon is basically non-functional after a few weeks it really seems like it might not be worth the hassle of not being able to inject it into the valve.
I feel like the sealant was marketed as a godsend, "working better* than any other".
*but not if you do this, or that, or if you pump like this, or if you ride at this temperature, or if you use these tyres, or these rims, or if you look to the left when you're pumping, or if your pinky toe is slightly off the ground when you pour it.
A reminder - Orange is still working for most of us, most of the time. Even if our pinky toe is slightly off the ground.
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Exactly, and this is an essential part of releasing a commercial product. Maybe it's good under some very specific and limited conditions, but this is not how the product was marketed when released. If it's not going to work well for so many people, they should better clarify why, or think again whether this sealant was ready for release. One would have thought that established sealant manufacturers were a bunch of fools who were completely clueless about what they were doing, seeing some of the Silca videos, but maybe years of experience in the business and milions of km's ridden by customers using their product do count for something after all.robeambro wrote: ↑Sat Jun 18, 2022 12:00 pmThere can be all of the reasons in this world, but one shouldn't be a chemist in order to get this to work.cat4forlife wrote: ↑Fri Jun 17, 2022 6:17 pmHow had the tire been inflated? Air compressor? I had been exclusively using an air compressor to inflate my tires. Introducing moist acidic air into the tire - because of moisture in the air compressor tank - and lowering the pH of the sealant was one of the reasons given by Silca when i emailed them with photos of lumps of pellets. The other given reasons were the sealant having too much carbon fiber or the sealant losing some of its carrier. The sealant having too much carbon fiber does not make sense to me. If pH of the sealant being lowered was the reason, then sensitivity of the sealant to changes in pH worries me.whataboutEee wrote: ↑Fri Jun 17, 2022 6:02 pmHad to replace my rear tire today and there was still plenty of liquid left in it (pirelli p zero race tlr, brand new tire when I mounted it). However, all the carbon was in one big clump stuck to the tire. The best I can tell it wasn't a puncture. Now I'm wondering how effective it is long term with the added replenisher. If the carbon is basically non-functional after a few weeks it really seems like it might not be worth the hassle of not being able to inject it into the valve.
I feel like the sealant was marketed as a godsend, "working better* than any other".
*but not if you do this, or that, or if you pump like this, or if you ride at this temperature, or if you use these tyres, or these rims, or if you look to the left when you're pumping, or if your pinky toe is slightly off the ground when you pour it.
A reminder - Orange is still working for most of us, most of the time. Even if our pinky toe is slightly off the ground.
I'm also on Veloflex Corsas TLR and find really annoying that Orange Seal stains my tan sidewalls after only a few rides, to a point where I'm really evaluating going back to Veloflex clinchers and inner tubes.bobones wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 11:39 amI am an Orange Seal fan, but I still have to get out the Dynaplugs for a fairly high proportion of holes, many of which I would have hoped the sealant would do its job. I also bought some Milkit sealant to avoid staining my tan Veloflex Corsas, but I don't hold out much hope for it being all that effective, so I'll probably buy some of this new Silca stuff.
When you purchase from the silca.cc site, are the goods shipped from the USA, or is their a quicker way to get this in the UK?
Before going back though I've became impressed with the Silca annoucement and was thinking that finally someone had invented "the solution", but starting this thread from atop I've became aware that I'm wrong right?
I think I'm going to invest in some Eclipse inner tubes now
There has been rumors of Dynaplug brass tips marking carbin rims. Don't know how well substantiated are those rumors, or if they are simple cases of bad use but having a brass tip rolling inside my wheel on a somewhat less than ideal inflated tire is reason for concern on my part.bobones wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 1:02 pmThat's why you need Dynaplugs. Sick of reading this sort of crap.Mocs123 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 12:45 pmI've had two people in my club get tubeless flats the past couple of weeks that didn't seal ending rides early. I've just recently put tubeless on one of my bikes at it's certainly a lot more trouble than latex tubes. If it doesn't seal, I might was well go back to tubes.
I'm also on that boat and discovered that the culprit is ALWAYS the rim tape, at least for me. Have experimented with Schwalbe, Tufo extreme and Zero Flats, and with the same outcome, which is tape bending at the extremities and the consequent loss of air.Mocs123 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 5:04 pmI'm not 100% sold on road tubeless either, and currently am running tubeless on one bike (with about 60 days on them) and latex tubes on the other. Both 25mm tires. I run 95/100psi in the tube tires and 80/85in the tubeless (79kg) and I can say the lower pressures in the tubeless are more comfortable. The tubeless setup does lose air faster than the latex tubes though - to the point that if I don't ride it for a week it's flat.
Piling on here and officially joined this stuff is garbage band wagon. I pulled two more wheel sets this weekend and can’t express enough the disappointment and dissatisfaction with this product. Here are pics from a brand new conti 5000 s after two months. As you can see it is completely dried up and impossible to clean. Living in the Bay Area, it not a hot or dry climate. I just wasted $400 worth of tires (that I can’t find replacements). These were on PCW's (no rim tape needed)
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naavt wrote: ↑Mon Jun 20, 2022 11:03 amThere has been rumors of Dynaplug brass tips marking carbin rims. Don't know how well substantiated are those rumors, or if they are simple cases of bad use but having a brass tip rolling inside my wheel on a somewhat less than ideal inflated tire is reason for concern on my part.bobones wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 1:02 pmThat's why you need Dynaplugs. Sick of reading this sort of crap.Mocs123 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 16, 2022 12:45 pmI've had two people in my club get tubeless flats the past couple of weeks that didn't seal ending rides early. I've just recently put tubeless on one of my bikes at it's certainly a lot more trouble than latex tubes. If it doesn't seal, I might was well go back to tubes.
First, I don't have a single tubeless setup that loses air faster than latex tubes like Mocs123 claims...not even Challenge of Veloflex "open tubulars." At worst they have roughly equivalent air loss rates. At best, Goodyear Eagle F1s lose less air than lightweight butyl tubes...literally 2psi per week.
Second, I don't really see how the brass tips can mark up carbon rims. I'm using the ones soft-nose ones (not the round "bullet tips.) I never pull on the plug once I insert it and the tip almost always stays put. Even if it does come loose, no carbon is exposed to the tip. The tip will either be touching the interior of the tire or rim tape. I haven't even seen rim tape damaged by the tip because while riding the loose tip will be pressed against the tire casing.
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What a mess.ccie6872 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 21, 2022 12:01 amPiling on here and officially joined this stuff is garbage band wagon. I pulled two more wheel sets this weekend and can’t express enough the disappointment and dissatisfaction with this product. Here are pics from a brand new conti 5000 s after two months. As you can see it is completely dried up and impossible to clean. Living in the Bay Area, it not a hot or dry climate. I just wasted $400 worth of tires (that I can’t find replacements). These were on PCW's (no rim tape needed)
009BBDF2-8A84-46A2-A2E8-E1370EAB355A.jpeg
9AE9C4AF-BD49-41AF-A8A4-1CAAC0F448BE.jpegEBFF9D7A-CF0B-4506-984D-B4314DE23017.jpeg
I am now 7 weeks post brand GP 5000 S TR tyres with Silca; I think I will ride tomorrow then pull a tyre and see how mine are. In Scotland so certainly not any extreme of weather!
Are you serious you just threw them away?! And people wonder why the climate is getting worse and worse...ccie6872 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 21, 2022 12:01 amPiling on here and officially joined this stuff is garbage band wagon. I pulled two more wheel sets this weekend and can’t express enough the disappointment and dissatisfaction with this product. Here are pics from a brand new conti 5000 s after two months. As you can see it is completely dried up and impossible to clean. Living in the Bay Area, it not a hot or dry climate. I just wasted $400 worth of tires (that I can’t find replacements). These were on PCW's (no rim tape needed)
009BBDF2-8A84-46A2-A2E8-E1370EAB355A.jpeg
9AE9C4AF-BD49-41AF-A8A4-1CAAC0F448BE.jpegEBFF9D7A-CF0B-4506-984D-B4314DE23017.jpeg
Looks like dried up Orange Seal and I can see in the first pic that you successfuly cleaned a bit of it. The big chunks are easy to clean and then all you need to clean are the beads, other than that just put new sealant in and and run it... Really no reason to just bin them other than your own laziness.
Based on your comments of me being 'lazy' you must have experience with this specific sealent dried up. It is not as easy as you imply, its different then any other sealant I have encountered. My main reason for not reusing is that it was impossible to get all the dried, hard clump up sealant (with fiber) off the bead and was concerned for safety on hookless and leaks when replacing. If it was stans or organge, it would have been a no brainer to clean and reuse. I error on the side of caution and not laziness as you boldly accused.JayDee81 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 21, 2022 10:05 amAre you serious you just threw them away?! And people wonder why the climate is getting worse and worse...ccie6872 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 21, 2022 12:01 amPiling on here and officially joined this stuff is garbage band wagon. I pulled two more wheel sets this weekend and can’t express enough the disappointment and dissatisfaction with this product. Here are pics from a brand new conti 5000 s after two months. As you can see it is completely dried up and impossible to clean. Living in the Bay Area, it not a hot or dry climate. I just wasted $400 worth of tires (that I can’t find replacements). These were on PCW's (no rim tape needed)
009BBDF2-8A84-46A2-A2E8-E1370EAB355A.jpeg
9AE9C4AF-BD49-41AF-A8A4-1CAAC0F448BE.jpegEBFF9D7A-CF0B-4506-984D-B4314DE23017.jpeg
Looks like dried up Orange Seal and I can see in the first pic that you successfuly cleaned a bit of it. The big chunks are easy to clean and then all you need to clean are the beads, other than that just put new sealant in and and run it... Really no reason to just bin them other than your own laziness.
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So has anyone pulled a tire after 3-4wks and found the sealant still viable (not dried up and/or the carbon fiber still loose and not clumped into a large ball)? Is this thread just filled with those of us who have been unlucky, but it seems to be working as advertised for everyone else?
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Use a kitchen scour pad on the bead and inside of the tire.ccie6872 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 21, 2022 1:11 pm
Based on your comments of me being 'lazy' you must have experience with this specific sealent dried up. It is not as easy as you imply, its different then any other sealant I have encountered. My main reason for not reusing is that it was impossible to get all the dried, hard clump up sealant (with fiber) off the bead and was concerned for safety on hookless and leaks when replacing. If it was stans or organge, it would have been a no brainer to clean and reuse. I error on the side of caution and not laziness as you boldly accused.
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My experience: seems like it would probably work as advertised. Too much of a pain in the butt and too much mess to justify over muc off.
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Another similar experience. I have been following this thread, and, like others, was a little afraid to take a look at what was in the tire-installed in early May, so seemed too early to need the replenishment. Shame on me, as I had a small goathead puncture in a gravel race yesterday (did not realize it was a goathead until I looked at the inside of the tire today). Stopped and saw a little sealant bubbling through, so was hoping that would seal it. Couldn't find the hole again, so could not plug it. Stopped multiple times to add air and managed to finish the race-probably should have just tubed it.
Took the tire off today and had no liquid sealant left and multiple balls of the carbon fiber. Took the other tire off and, though it had some liquid sealant, there were several clumps of carbon balls and there did not seem to be much of the carbon strands left in the liquid. I did start to pull off the dried sealant from the first tire and it did come off pretty easily, at least as easy as Orange Seal.
Should have taken pics, but it is pretty much what others have shown-just had to add my vote of no confidence. I am a Silca fanboy and have a lot of their products, but, like others, will be going back to Orange Seal endurance. Thanks for letting me rant-back to latex peeling.
Took the tire off today and had no liquid sealant left and multiple balls of the carbon fiber. Took the other tire off and, though it had some liquid sealant, there were several clumps of carbon balls and there did not seem to be much of the carbon strands left in the liquid. I did start to pull off the dried sealant from the first tire and it did come off pretty easily, at least as easy as Orange Seal.
Should have taken pics, but it is pretty much what others have shown-just had to add my vote of no confidence. I am a Silca fanboy and have a lot of their products, but, like others, will be going back to Orange Seal endurance. Thanks for letting me rant-back to latex peeling.
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