Fitting S-works Power cranks to Tarmac SL6

[Archie100]

If anyone has built up an S-works Tarmac SL6 with the ceramic speed bearings that come with the frameset and S-works Power Cranks, then some advice would be appreciated.

I’ve been lucky enough to get my hands on a new S-works Tarmac SL6 disc frameset from a specialized dealer which I’m waiting to get delivered shortly. I bought an S-works dual sided power crankset with Praxis chainrings second hand. The crankset comes with the non-drive side pre-load adjuster (comes in two washer sections with 3 x small grub screws) and what looks like one bearing dust cover. There doesn’t seem to be any shim or washer for drive side but I’m wondering if this is missing or if I don’t need one?

Do I fit the two parts of pre-load adjuster together and line up the screws to the previous screw recesses and tighten this up on the non drive-side before fitting the crank-arm and spindle – then after inserting the spindle from non-driveside, do I just fit the chainrings/crankarm on drive side and tighten this up and torque from drive side?
Or do I fit the non-driveside crankarm and spindle in the frame, put on the driveside chainrings/crank-arm, tighten and torque the drive side nut then tighten the pre-load adjuster on non-driveside as the last step trying to line up to the original recesses where the grub screws once fitted?

I was going to put some grease on spindle and some grease around the splines on drive side end of the spindle before fitting the chainrings/crankarm. Should I consider doing anything else?
Does anyone know how many newton-metre of torque to use to tighten up the drive side nut?

Any advice on fitting the ceramic speed bearings into the frame to start with, I had intended to put a small bit of blue ceramic speed grease onto the bearing back-stops where the bearing presses into the sleeve on each side. Then put a small of grease around the outside surface of the bearing or would it be better to put locktite (or some other fixing compound) on the bearing surface where the bearing presses into the sleeve?
What is the best approach here to avoid creaking down the line?

All help appreciated. Thanks.

[Ronin416]

If anyone has built up an S-works Tarmac SL6 with the ceramic speed bearings that come with the frameset and S-works Power Cranks, then some advice would be appreciated.

I’ve been lucky enough to get my hands on a new S-works Tarmac SL6 disc frameset from a specialized dealer which I’m waiting to get delivered shortly. I bought an S-works dual sided power crankset with Praxis chainrings second hand. The crankset comes with the non-drive side pre-load adjuster (comes in two washer sections with 3 x small grub screws) and what looks like one bearing dust cover. There doesn’t seem to be any shim or washer for drive side but I’m wondering if this is missing or if I don’t need one?

Do I fit the two parts of pre-load adjuster together and line up the screws to the previous screw recesses and tighten this up on the non drive-side before fitting the crank-arm and spindle – then after inserting the spindle from non-driveside, do I just fit the chainrings/crankarm on drive side and tighten this up and torque from drive side?
Or do I fit the non-driveside crankarm and spindle in the frame, put on the driveside chainrings/crank-arm, tighten and torque the drive side nut then tighten the pre-load adjuster on non-driveside as the last step trying to line up to the original recesses where the grub screws once fitted?

I was going to put some grease on spindle and some grease around the splines on drive side end of the spindle before fitting the chainrings/crankarm. Should I consider doing anything else?
Does anyone know how many newton-metre of torque to use to tighten up the drive side nut?

Any advice on fitting the ceramic speed bearings into the frame to start with, I had intended to put a small bit of blue ceramic speed grease onto the bearing back-stops where the bearing presses into the sleeve on each side. Then put a small of grease around the outside surface of the bearing or would it be better to put locktite (or some other fixing compound) on the bearing surface where the bearing presses into the sleeve?
What is the best approach here to avoid creaking down the line?

All help appreciated. Thanks.

https://manualzz.com/doc/24119035/s-wor ... oad-cranks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Archie100]

Thanks for the reply and info Ronin416 but that's the manual for the older set of power cranks where spindle comes in two halves. The newer version I have has a single piece spindle and has different washers so I was hoping someone has fitted the new s-works cranks and can give some advice. Thanks

[tommsup]

The attached picture from the user manual should be helpful. I have installed the same crank myself without any issues. The bearing dust cover goes on the DS and the preload adjuster on the NDS.Tighten the cranks to 45nm with a 8mm hex and then adjust the sideways play with the preload adjuster. Add some threadlock to the small bolts on the preload adjuster. Don't overtighten the bolts (1.5 nm) and check the bolts after some rides. The crank is very light and works well. Upgrade the firmware on iphone/android app. The power-pod on the DS might come loose if you loose your chain outwards, so pay attention to the settings on the front derailleur. The bearings should be installed with a BB30 bearing press and the circlips by hand.

[Archie100]

Hi tommsup, thanks a lot - the pic from the manual and extra info you sent is very helpul. Much appreciated - thanks.
I have the frameset getting delivered in a couple of weeks and along with the s-works power cranks I already bought new Dura Ace di2 9170 shifters/derrailleurs/brakes/battery/junction boxes/di2 wires along with roval rapide 42cm bars so should have everything I need for the build.

[alexmcm09]

Hi tommsup, thanks a lot - the pic from the manual and extra info you sent is very helpul. Much appreciated - thanks.
I have the frameset getting delivered in a couple of weeks and along with the s-works power cranks I already bought new Dura Ace di2 9170 shifters/derrailleurs/brakes/battery/junction boxes/di2 wires along with roval rapide 42cm bars so should have everything I need for the build.

The stock plastic preloader is pretty average. You can replace it with the Cane Creek preloader for 30mm cranks for a better solution.

[Archie100]

Thanks alesmcm09
I assume this is what I should get:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Cane- ... er-p64921/

[BigBoyND]

The stock plastic preloader is pretty average. You can replace it with the Cane Creek preloader for 30mm cranks for a better solution.

I've changed the plastic preloader on a crankset to CaneCreek. All it did was add a few grams and cost money for a piece of bling I never look at. It feels and looks nice but really doesn't do a better job preloading.

[eric01]

The one that comes with sworks cranks isn't plastic. Its a thin metal cone with 3 1.5mm grub screws which i found didn't to hold for me. It might be worse than the plastic ones. Replaced it with cane creek and its been reliable.

[ryanw]

Make sure you fit the DS dust cover / spacer the correct way round.

Had a few in and it's had the lip on the outside, against the spider and resulted in poor performance and dead 6806.

Best of luck with the cranks, they're probably the most unreliable PM on the market. I don't have a single customer running them after experiencing issues after issues.

The new Spesh (4iii) S-Works PM off the SL7s are much better, albeit heavier and 24mm axle.

[mrlobber]

Best of luck with the cranks, they're probably the most unreliable PM on the market. I don't have a single customer running them after experiencing issues after issues.

Fingers crossed, still running one fine @ 6k km, except that 90% of rides it reports one super high cadence (like 200 rpm) value at some point. Other than that, seems to be in line with any other PM I've tested in against.

[Archie100]

Make sure you fit the DS dust cover / spacer the correct way round.

Had a few in and it's had the lip on the outside, against the spider and resulted in poor performance and dead 6806.

Best of luck with the cranks, they're probably the most unreliable PM on the market. I don't have a single customer running them after experiencing issues after issues.

The new Spesh (4iii) S-Works PM off the SL7s are much better, albeit heavier and 24mm axle.

Thanks ryanw
I think I might already be finding some reliability issues you mentioned and I don't even have the crankset fitted yet.
It took me many attempts to get the power meter connected to the 4iii app - after trying two different sets of new batteries and lots of attempts to get the 4iii app to recognise both crank arms of the power meter, I eventually got it connected. Did firmware update on both crank arms and did zero offset.
However after connecting to my Wahoo Element Bolt, I only see the ANT-id of the non-drive side crank arm but strangely the Wahoo says that the right pedal is Good.
Does anyone know if this is normal or if I should see both crank arms on the Wahoo?
If this is not normal, is there anything I can do to get both crank arms connected?
Thanks

[BigBoyND]

I thought one side connects to the other and that connects to the head unit. So it would show as one connection.

[Archie100]

I thought one side connects to the other and that connects to the head unit. So it would show as one connection.

Thanks - yes I've since figured out that the PowerMeter shows up as a single connection (using ANT+ id from non-drive side crank arm) on Wahoo Element Bolt. I can see different readings under Left/Right Balance when I spin the crankset but I'm assuming this is because I haven't fitted the crankset yet and I'm spinning it in thin air and readings are in no way accurate.

When I paired both crank arms to TrainerRoad (was able to pair both individually) I can see that both crankarms are showing same cadence when I spin the crankset so I'm hoping both sensors are working ok. I guess I'll only know when I install the crankset and use the bike on the road or on my Kickr.

Thanks for kind replies and help on this thread.

[Archie100]

I want to change the chainrings on my s-works power cranks and was wondering if it would be ok to loosen the driveside spindle bolt and remove the driveside without loosening the non driveside preload adjuster.
My local spesh dealer fitted the crankset for me and tightened the preload adjuster so I was hoping I wouldnt have to touch them small grub screws.
But if there could be some issue retightening the spindle bolt after fitting new chainrings I'll just back off the preloader, e.g. if LBS hadnt torqued the drive side spindle bolt exactly to 45N and I do that next time, could I put more pressure on the preloader and damage it?