Upgrade to 12s Campagnolo EPS
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi all.
I have a LOOK 695 and it has Campagnolo SR 11s mechanical groupset and Fulcrum R1 wheels.
I'm thinking about upgrading to 12s Campagnolo EPS and was wondering if I need to change the front chainrings seeing as though the chain is thinner.
I know the 12s cassette will fit on the existing 11s rear freehub but just not sure about the front chainring. Do I need thinner front sprockets?
What I like not is that the conversion won't be as expensive as a complete upgrade. I am keeping the brakes and the cranks are the LOOK ZED2. I only need the battery, wiring, shifters, front and rear derailleur.
Cheers
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I have a LOOK 695 and it has Campagnolo SR 11s mechanical groupset and Fulcrum R1 wheels.
I'm thinking about upgrading to 12s Campagnolo EPS and was wondering if I need to change the front chainrings seeing as though the chain is thinner.
I know the 12s cassette will fit on the existing 11s rear freehub but just not sure about the front chainring. Do I need thinner front sprockets?
What I like not is that the conversion won't be as expensive as a complete upgrade. I am keeping the brakes and the cranks are the LOOK ZED2. I only need the battery, wiring, shifters, front and rear derailleur.
Cheers
Sent from my SM-N976B using Tapatalk
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Isn't the chainline a problem with 11s cranksets?
EPS v2 - v4 can adjust for the position of both the inner and outer chainring. So, once you set it up, you trim the outer chainring a couple of clicks to match the crankset you have.
12s mechanical FD have a different design than 11s. It just won't work as well if the chainrings are not 8.0mm apart.
I measured the teeth on the 11s and 12s chainrings and saw no difference.
Just an FYI, the first six cogs on Chorus and SR cassettes are the same.
thanks. Definitely better off going with the chorus 12s cassette. Cheaper and probably last longer. Weight saving is minimal and insignificant when body fat has to be lost.joeyb1000 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 2:29 amEPS v2 - v4 can adjust for the position of both the inner and outer chainring. So, once you set it up, you trim the outer chainring a couple of clicks to match the crankset you have.
12s mechanical FD have a different design than 11s. It just won't work as well if the chainrings are not 8.0mm apart.
I measured the teeth on the 11s and 12s chainrings and saw no difference.
Just an FYI, the first six cogs on Chorus and SR cassettes are the same.
On another note, if i upgrade from 11s campy to 12s Campy EPS, I only need front and rear derailleurs, shiufters, EPS V4 Power Unit (battery), EPS V4 interface, 12s cassette, 12s chain. I'm using my current brakes and ZED2 crankset so the build cost wont be as bad as having to buy the brakes and cranks as well. What do you recommend for the interface? Internal or external?
Using Tapatalk
thanks. Definitely better off going with the chorus 12s cassette. Cheaper and probably last longer. Weight saving is minimal and insignificant when body fat has to be lost.joeyb1000 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 2:29 amEPS v2 - v4 can adjust for the position of both the inner and outer chainring. So, once you set it up, you trim the outer chainring a couple of clicks to match the crankset you have.
12s mechanical FD have a different design than 11s. It just won't work as well if the chainrings are not 8.0mm apart.
I measured the teeth on the 11s and 12s chainrings and saw no difference.
Just an FYI, the first six cogs on Chorus and SR cassettes are the same.
On another note, if i upgrade from 11s campy to 12s Campy EPS, I only need front and rear derailleurs, shiufters, EPS V4 Power Unit (battery), EPS V4 interface, 12s cassette, 12s chain. I'm using my current brakes and ZED2 crankset so the build cost wont be as bad as having to buy the brakes and cranks as well. What do you recommend for the interface? Internal or external?
Using Tapatalk
Why would they? The weight saving is from more volume milled away (in places where it's definitely not needed), not from a lower density material. If there is a difference in material (I don't think there is), it would be softer for the cheaper version: milling cost is (in first approximation) volume removed x hardness.
Assume because the last 6 are titanium on SR..usr wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 11:36 pmWhy would they? The weight saving is from more volume milled away (in places where it's definitely not needed), not from a lower density material. If there is a difference in material (I don't think there is), it would be softer for the cheaper version: milling cost is (in first approximation) volume removed x hardness.
On that note, I've found the shift from the last steel cog up to the first titanium to be poor on my SR 11 cassette on EPS. Seems much better on chorus and I seem to have to reset the EPS each time I swap for proper shifting across the range. Not sure if I've got a dud but I really can't recommend from my experience.
I did not know this!
Probably not a bad idea, given my experience with SR 11 cassettes..
Not sure why you'd stump up the extra for SR though now.
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Ca 90€ for ca -40g, that's not worse than other premiums you pay for Record or Super Record over Chorus. If you believe that they differ in more than weight, feel free to keep believing. (well, rim brakes are still the last 11s design for Chorus and some bearings are different)