Weight Weenies

StiffWeenies wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 09, 2021 2:45 pm

What are the best cables to use with these Juins? I'm looking at Jagwire's offerings right now and it seems like their 2nd tier Road Pro Brake Kit might be better than their 1st tier Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit because the former are compression-less and the latter are low-compression. I'm also looking at Yokozuna's Reaction compression-less cables that also seem nice.

I'm happy with the TRP compressionless cables which are a fair bit cheaper than the Jagwire ones, just no fun colours:

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/trp-cableset?l ... lsrc=aw.ds

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I just buy the jagwire compressionless housing in a larger quantity. The cables can be whatever stainless steel that fits the brake lever. A 10 meter roll is $60. It does come in several colors.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Jagwire-5mm-P ... yUEALw_wcB

DaveS wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 10, 2021 1:32 pm

I just buy the jagwire compressionless housing in a larger quantity. The cables can be whatever stainless steel that fits the brake lever. A 10 meter roll is $60. It does come in several colors.

Sorry but I disagree with this. The best inner wires are polished and formed to be very round - you don't feel the ridges of the individual strands if you drag your fingernails across them. The result is a much smoother, lower finger effort, and less "raspy" feel in use. Again, I would recommend the Jagwire pro inner wires. They are available separately and they have the smoothest texture that I have examine. The more the cable route bends the more important cable smoothness becomes. Also the smoothness seems helpful at wear the cable exits the housing.

First proper test in the wet. Wet roads, constant mist, 10 degrees. OMG are these loud. When cold and wet these are the loudest I have ever heard. Squealing, howling - just nasty. Of course drag them for a few seconds to dry the rotors and heat them up, and then they are perfectly silent of course. The problem is, when it is wet, my route is flat to gentle rolling terrain. Over 80 to 100 km I will brake maybe six or seven times at certain intersections, before tight turns, etc. So barely using the brakes at all, guaranteeing that they are nice and cold for each application. Thinking about trying SwissStop RS or getting ear plugs. Still love these brakes though.

Mr.Gib wrote: ↑

Thu Oct 14, 2021 11:28 pm

First proper test in the wet. Wet roads, constant mist, 10 degrees. OMG are these loud. When cold and wet these are the loudest I have ever heard. Squealing, howling - just nasty. Of course drag them for a few seconds to dry the rotors and heat them up, and then they are perfectly silent of course. The problem is, when it is wet, my route is flat to gentle rolling terrain. Over 80 to 100 km I will brake maybe six or seven times at certain intersections, before tight turns, etc. So barely using the brakes at all, guaranteeing that they are nice and cold for each application. Thinking about trying SwissStop RS or getting ear plugs. Still love these brakes though.

Exactly the same experience as me on a wet 150km ride last Sunday! Again with me it goes after a few seconds when they warm up.
Good to know that it's not just me who's done something silly like contaminate the brake pads.
If you do try some different pads please post about it.

The whole contamination thing is way overdone. People come on this forum to report disc brake noise and get advised that their pads are probably contaminated. Of course these "contaminated" pads seem to work perfectly when the weather is dry and warm. Nope, that howling noise is just the sound of the latest and greatest in bike technology when the it's cold and wet out. I want to hear from some disc brake users who have silent brakes when weather is bad... crickets.

And kudos to you for 150km in the wet - I wouldn't' do something like that unless I had no choice.

And speaking of riding in the wet... I logged some serious miles in downpours and/or gritty messy conditions. The takeaway was that it took about 15 hours of wet conditions with only occasional braking to obliterate the brake pads. In one 3 hour stretch I consumed 50% of my rear brake pad - and I barely used the rear brake - maybe 5 or 6 decent applications at most. I probably split my braking 75% front, 25% rear and the front has lasted about as long despite the much greater use. It makes sense that the rear will suffer most as it is blasted with a constant stream of shit from a wet road. It's like the Paris Roubaix fiasco - ride in messy conditions and you can wear out resin pads without even using them, I have put a semi-metallic pad on the rear and will see how that goes.

I installed a SRAM 180mm rotor on the front wheel of one of my bikes. I used a TRP 140-160mm adapter to reposition the caliper. The trickey part is modifying an M5 hex head bolt so the head and washer are under 4mm in thickness. The bolt must be placed through the adapter prior to mounting to the caliper. I also had to grind my 8mm midget wrench to about 3mm thick. Campy 160mm rotors weighed 120, sram 180mm weighs 180.

I made this change to my second bike, but found even less clearance for the hex head bolt. I carefully filed off some material from the caliper and used a 0.4mm shim under the upper mounting leg to gain some more clearance.

https://forums.thepaceline.net/picture. ... tureid=948

Mr.Gib wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 17, 2021 5:15 am

The takeaway was that it took about 15 hours of wet conditions with only occasional braking to obliterate the brake pads. In one 3 hour stretch I consumed 50% of my rear brake pad - and I barely used the rear brake

My experience from CX racing and gravel riding is that whatever stuff is on the riding surface while riding in the wet, will coat the rotors which acts like a slurry that continually abrades the surface of resin pads regardless of whether you use the brakes.

anyone got these things hot enough, will the pistons expand and start to rub?

PoorCyclist wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 28, 2021 2:54 am

anyone got these things hot enough, will the pistons expand and start to rub?

One of the routes out of my neighbourhood includes a 200 meter 20% descent (an evil bastard in the other direction at the end of a ride) that has a stop at the bottom. The answer is yes, things heat up and the piston can take an extra second or two to fully retract. The Juin Tech GT is however noticeably better than my Dura Ace hydro disc brakes in this regard. Both systems are quite new so perhaps things improve with some use. Interestingly, I don't recall this problem on my regular Juin Tech F1.

Overall still very happy. Did a ride in the dry and was very impressed with the power and modulation. I would be perfectly happy with the GT's on my summer bike if the cable routing was possible. The only significant difference from the full hydro's is lever effort. Lever effort is similar to a really top rim brake setup with alloy wheels. You can use one finger in most situations.

This is not my bike but I am interested in getting this fork. Which has a to hold the cable/hose to the front edge. As we know the cable brakes want to route the cable to the outside, do you think it will work without too much bends?
I assume below the clip, it will sit on the "outside" of the fork blade? That's a snagging on things hazard or not?

The other fork I am considering is Ritchey which has the clip on the trailing edge of the fork facing the rear. Is that orientation better for installing these brakes?

The Juin-Tech cable guide is more toward the outside, but I use them with my internally routed cable housing that exists on the inside. One issue is the stiff housing pushing on the caliper and fouling up the alignment. I align my calipers by actuating them with my fingers, then install the cable last.

That fork is externally routed and even with the guide there is lots of room for the cable to bend around to the caliper. Still, the Ritchey with the cable on the rear of the fork will look way better, makes more sense.

For the bikes I have worked on, the rear caliper has always been the tough spot. Some frames simply do not have enough space between the exit port on the inside of the chainstay and the caliper. Worth noting is that the GT's have the cable stop about 10mm further back compare to Juin Tech F1 that can save the build on certain frames. So be very careful if the frame is internally routed to the rear brake.

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It doesn't seem that any cable-actuated caliper has the cable entry in the best position.
Hence all the issues with fork routing, chainstay exits, and cable bends.

I just bought another set of GT-Ps, for my other (post-mount) gravel bike.
Check out Cycle Taiwan for a good price. eBay sellers gettin' greedy on pricing.