Juin Tech GT
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what are your thoughts on using juintech gt-f brakes on the Enve gravel fork routing? Is it going to be ok?
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The person I talked to at Yokozuna thinks I can use their cable all the way to the back (internal via downtube to chainstay) What do you think?
Actually I think the Jagwire is also pretty stiff. Only Yokozuna is a little thicker, and needed a step down ferrule which they include with their brakes.
Actually I think the Jagwire is also pretty stiff. Only Yokozuna is a little thicker, and needed a step down ferrule which they include with their brakes.
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I've no experience with the Yokozuna; the Jagwire compressionless is quite stiff, though, compared to standard Shimano outers.PoorCyclist wrote: ↑Fri Mar 11, 2022 10:57 pmThe person I talked to at Yokozuna thinks I can use their cable all the way to the back (internal via downtube to chainstay) What do you think?
Actually I think the Jagwire is also pretty stiff. Only Yokozuna is a little thicker, and needed a step down ferrule which they include with their brakes.
I had a hard time running the Jagwire internally on my build, but eventually got it done. I found it much easier to route the cable "backwards," from the rear stay, through bottom bracket shell, and up to the head tube, rather than the other way. The stiffness of the cable housing made negotiating the exit point on the stay extremely difficult, even with a cable pulling kit, so it was easier to use it as an entrance point.
PoorCyclist wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 5:38 pmwhat are your thoughts on using juintech gt-f brakes on the Enve gravel fork routing? Is it going to be ok?
I think it will be close. You need 15cm from cable port to dropout to ensure a decent cable run - the distance in the photo looks less. The one thing that might make a shorter distance work on the Enve is the cable port seems to be toward the trailing edge of the fork. That could buy you some space.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
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It will be just fine. I use them on a 2019 S-Works Venge with Sram eTap 11s.There are a lot of sharp angles and I have no problems at all. BTW, two weeks ago I swapped the cables from the compressionless Jagwire KEB-SL to a Shimano DA BC-9000 polymer set - I couldn't get Jagwire, so I took a chance. Shimano is much better, even though they are not officially compressionless. Smooth running without power loss.PoorCyclist wrote: ↑Thu Mar 10, 2022 5:38 pmI think it will be close. You need 15cm from cable port to dropout to ensure a decent cable run - the distance in the photo looks less. The one thing that might make a shorter distance work on the Enve is the cable port seems to be toward the trailing edge of the fork. That could buy you some space.
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Finally I ordered the frame, one of the consideration is the cable exit locations.
I think it has more than 14cm (like 5"). If I am using Yoko cables the ferrule stepdown takes 1cm on it's own.
Don't know why compressionless is needed for these. Hydraulics need very little effort to actuate for full hydro system. They have a bigger master cylinder in the lever though. I think it's more of a feel thing? The effort is lower than rim brake caliper already.
Why do we need crazy cables that seem to weight quite a lot. I can see that used for cable disc calipers but for hybrids I think it's not so needed.
I think it has more than 14cm (like 5"). If I am using Yoko cables the ferrule stepdown takes 1cm on it's own.
Don't know why compressionless is needed for these. Hydraulics need very little effort to actuate for full hydro system. They have a bigger master cylinder in the lever though. I think it's more of a feel thing? The effort is lower than rim brake caliper already.
Why do we need crazy cables that seem to weight quite a lot. I can see that used for cable disc calipers but for hybrids I think it's not so needed.
Well I'm hoping to use them with Aican Bungarus cables Using Sram hrd now and wants to change to this for some great weight savings.PoorCyclist wrote:Why do we need crazy cables that seem to weight quite a lot.
Compressionless has nothing to do with the force needed to brake. It's about the brake lever travel lost to compressing the cable. Those of us with short fingers who have the levers set to the shortest reach position have far less lever travel available. Jagwire is easier to route than yokozuna. I've used both.
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The TRP outer is better than both for the GTs in my option. I've routed a couple of internal bars and full integrated bar,stem frame with no issues. Fully ground inners also improve the feel.
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Hey guys need some help here, trying to use Jagwire compressionless cable. None of the ferrules fit except for the "POP" one.
Do you not use the ferrules? it's kind of loose fit without.
The silver one is some shimano shift or brake amd will go into the caliper but the cable is too thick for it.
Do you not use the ferrules? it's kind of loose fit without.
The silver one is some shimano shift or brake amd will go into the caliper but the cable is too thick for it.
Use the POP ferrule.PoorCyclist wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 7:06 pmHey guys need some help here, trying to use Jagwire compressionless cable. None of the ferrules fit except for the "POP" one.
Do you not use the ferrules? it's kind of loose fit without.
The silver one is some shimano shift or brake amd will go into the caliper but the cable is too thick for it.
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The pop is loose fit in the caliper and makes the cable end longer.
I noticed just now the ferules with smaller holes are for shifters.
I found one in SRAM kit that fits and it's for brake. if I cut off any distortion in the jacket, it's like it's made for it.
I am a bit frustrated with these jagwire kits their ferrules never fit any bike I own, not just the juintech.
I noticed just now the ferules with smaller holes are for shifters.
I found one in SRAM kit that fits and it's for brake. if I cut off any distortion in the jacket, it's like it's made for it.
I am a bit frustrated with these jagwire kits their ferrules never fit any bike I own, not just the juintech.
I keep ferrules from previous builds so I can have an assortment for times like this. Use anything that will snug up the housing and also keep the compressionless jacket wires from popping throught the oversized hole in the calipers. If the shifter one fits, drill the hole out just big enough for the cable to slide through. Don't use anything long that will extend beyond the hole in the caliper as this may prevent a smooth bend. Old school thin steel ferrules seem to work well for this.
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So trim your cables and housing accordingly? Also, once you have the cable fastened to the caliper, the tension holds everything in place. The ferrule/housing does not move in the caliper.PoorCyclist wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 7:22 pmThe pop is loose fit in the caliper and makes the cable end longer.