Juin Tech GT

[DaveS]

I didn't find the stock pads to be all that great. I prefer the galfer standard, for dry road riding, which is all I do.

[ms6073]

If I had a gripe, it would be they come stock without a barrel adjuster at cable entry.
So I tap mine with an M6, and screw in an adjuster & nut.

Unless you have an aero frame with all internal cable routing, why not simply add an inline adjuster before the brake cable enters the frame? Also, isn't a barrel adjuster effectively shortening the stroke in the same manner as the stroke adjustment knob?

[OlieSimpson]

If I had a gripe, it would be they come stock without a barrel adjuster at cable entry.
So I tap mine with an M6, and screw in an adjuster & nut.

Unless you have an aero frame with all internal cable routing, why not simply add an inline adjuster before the brake cable enters the frame? Also, isn't a barrel adjuster effectively shortening the stroke in the same manner as the stroke adjustment knob?

On a side note, can you let me know what disk rotor's they are?

[Hexsense]

Also, isn't a barrel adjuster effectively shortening the stroke in the same manner as the stroke adjustment knob?

Yes, that's exactly its job. Pull the arm in and out to take out cable slack and compensate for brake pad wears. However, since that arm is not perpendicular to the cable path, the difference combination of cable length and that knob setting slightly alter the modulation and feel too...
Juintech is closed loop hydraulic caliper. It doesn't auto adjust for pad wears. So, that stroke adjustment knob or barrel adjustor is the way to compensate for pads wear.

[ms6073]

On a side note, can you let me know what disk rotor's they are?

Aren't those Carbon Ti X-Rotor SteelCarbon 2 rotors?

[jch3n]

I mod them with all ti bolts, and have never had any problems.

Do you have more details about your bolt tuning? Where do you get your bolts from? What size(s) are they? How much weight does it actually save?

[Weasel]

On a side note, can you let me know what disk rotor's they are?

Aren't those Carbon Ti X-Rotor SteelCarbon 2 rotors?

Yes they are - couldn't resist that extra bit of carbon!

[Mr.Gib]

I guess the big question is how is the power? Frankly it is a match for most of the hydro systems I have ridden. The only real difference is the Juin Techs, despite the nice light feel, still require more lever effort than hydro...

I just did a quick test on a new build with Dura Ace 9170 and while I stand behind my statement above, I guess most of the hydro systems I have ridden were not well set up, bad pads, etc. because the 9170 braking was significantly stronger and this is before a full bedding in of the pads. The gap between the two was greater than expected (mostly as a result of the surprising power of the Dura Ace). But it all comes down to just a difference of finger effort and the benefits that come with that, particularely how finely you can modulate when you are squeezing the lever so lightly.

I still think the Juin Tech GT's are a great product and I'd be inclined to install them on any disc bike that had good cable routing. Finger effort is comparable to good rim brakes so more than acceptable. The Dura Ace stuff is really nice but bolting down the front caliper so that it wouldn't rub took over and hour using every trick in the book and it is still not perfect. In the process I accused the caliper of having sex with it's mother multiple times. The pad clearance is so close and without adding a ton of freestroke, there is not a lot you can do about it. Hopefully a bit of pad wear will help. Rear was no problem - perfect after the basic squeeze the lever and tighten.

[MrCurrieinahurry]

"In the process I accused the caliper of having sex with it's mother multiple times"



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[Alexandrumarian]

I guess the big question is how is the power? Frankly it is a match for most of the hydro systems I have ridden. The only real difference is the Juin Techs, despite the nice light feel, still require more lever effort than hydro...

The pad clearance is so close and without adding a ton of freestroke, there is not a lot you can do about it. Hopefully a bit of pad wear will help. Rear was no problem - perfect after the basic squeeze the lever and tighten.

That could be a warped rotor. It doesn't take much to make perfect/noiseless centering impossible as i know from my xt equipped mtb.

[StiffWeenies]

What are the best cables to use with these Juins? I'm looking at Jagwire's offerings right now and it seems like their 2nd tier Road Pro Brake Kit might be better than their 1st tier Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit because the former are compression-less and the latter are low-compression. I'm also looking at Yokozuna's Reaction compression-less cables that also seem nice.

[Steve Curtis]

Anything compressionless from jag wire work well in my experience on external and internal routing.
I'm literally just building a winter bike in the workshop now ,and may try some Ilinks I have to see how they work on the front.
Wondering they'll rattle in the internally routed fork, which would be super annoying.

[Mr.Gib]

I would always go with Jagwire Pro over elite. I wouldn't use anything segmented unless I had no option. The Pro is also very light.

[Steve Curtis]

I would always go with Jagwire Pro over elite. I wouldn't use anything segmented unless I had no option. The Pro is also very light.

Yep I agree. After playing around today I ordered another pro kit. The Ilinks rattle in the fork and don't feel as nice as the cable.

[StiffWeenies]

I would always go with Jagwire Pro over elite. I wouldn't use anything segmented unless I had no option. The Pro is also very light.

Actually they have Elite cables in addition to Elite links. I'm just scratching my head at why they're placing this Elite low-compression cable on top of their Pro compression-less cable in their product lineup. Isn't compression-less supposed to be better than low-compression for hydromechanical?