Hi guys,
Im looking for a new bike. Im able after 6 years and a heart surgery. Owned a lot of bikes and was on the most of them; overstretched.. i have an inseam of ca. 88cm and height is 178,5cm, 63 kilos at 32 years old.. I currently have an giant sl 2012 , 90mm stem and height steer is around 92,5 cm from the ground up, saddle from crank up is 74cm (98,5 cm) It rides smooth with its sram red 2x10.
But it keeps me wanting to have a new bike. Why... of fits ok, sometimes the feeling overstretched. Guess the bike is a size m, nowhere to find a sticker, but its an isp and the height is good.. bit used to endurance right now.
What other bike comes to you in mind? Not looking for the newest model. A good used one is okay. A cannondale synapse, but i guess the weight is heavier.. a specialized roubaix 54cm? Trek domane? Isaac element 52cm? Mis my ridley noah btw, but thats too aero i guess?
Or just only some new wheels... Found me a really cheap set of fulcrum quattro alu. But maybe want some more aero (like 40-45mm).
Can you guys help me out? What wheels can do to a bike: https://www.google.com/amp/s/stravaddic ... eview/amp/
Saw this bike, guess it will be a drop of ca. 9cm. Is that too much? : https://www.2dehands.be/a/fietsen-en-br ... delen.html
Fubar
Long legs. Short torso
Moderator: robbosmans
First post on here. I was in a similar situation so I think I can help.
It would be really helpful if you could post your wingspan. If you have long arms it will make the fit a bit easier.
Firstly, no race bikes, they will be too long, in some cases even w/ long arms. Aero bikes are generally even longer & lower than a lightweight race bike. Also stay away from anything with an integrated bar/stem combos, they typically have less rise and limited adjustability. The long & low bikes do look much nicer, but flipping the stem and adding 40mm of spacers on one of those bikes makes it an abomination.
The ones you suggested are endurace bikes, thats good, Canyon Endurace would be another option. I suggest you look at as many endurance bikes as possible try to find one with a short Reach figure without the Stack being too low.
If your current bike is a TCR that is a particularly long & low race bike (at least the 2021 version is) so switching to an endurace bike in the same size would already be a massive reduction in reach which is what you want.
You might not want to do this, but you are the kind of person that benefits from a bike fit [before] buying a bike. A decent fitter should be able to provide some good advice on what would suit you.
It would be really helpful if you could post your wingspan. If you have long arms it will make the fit a bit easier.
Firstly, no race bikes, they will be too long, in some cases even w/ long arms. Aero bikes are generally even longer & lower than a lightweight race bike. Also stay away from anything with an integrated bar/stem combos, they typically have less rise and limited adjustability. The long & low bikes do look much nicer, but flipping the stem and adding 40mm of spacers on one of those bikes makes it an abomination.
The ones you suggested are endurace bikes, thats good, Canyon Endurace would be another option. I suggest you look at as many endurance bikes as possible try to find one with a short Reach figure without the Stack being too low.
If your current bike is a TCR that is a particularly long & low race bike (at least the 2021 version is) so switching to an endurace bike in the same size would already be a massive reduction in reach which is what you want.
You might not want to do this, but you are the kind of person that benefits from a bike fit [before] buying a bike. A decent fitter should be able to provide some good advice on what would suit you.
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Try and find out exactly what bike you have then find its geometry. Might be on here https://bikeinsights.com/, you can then compare it to other frames.
You can post a pic as well
On another note, I would really think twice about buying a new bike without a fit or at the very least trying the bike out in person (even if that means waiting). If you are overstreched and want to correct that then you need to make sure your new one will be shorter. You don't want to make an expensive mistake.
You can post a pic as well
On another note, I would really think twice about buying a new bike without a fit or at the very least trying the bike out in person (even if that means waiting). If you are overstreched and want to correct that then you need to make sure your new one will be shorter. You don't want to make an expensive mistake.
Start with finding your current reach and stack. Geometrygeeks.bike is the page that has huge database of bikes and you should be able to find there your bike if it is Giant.
You can compare easily your bike with other bikes and decide..not so complicated. Just compare stack and reach.
You can compare stack between different frames directly, it will tell you how many spacers under the stem you will need (supposing you will use stem with the same angle but that's easy to source part with older frames not made for proprietary cockpits) Stack is measured without headset cover so just check that headset covers have similar height and if not, put it into your calculation.
With reach it is slightly more complicated because reach is measured at a stack height. So if two frames have same stack, you can directly compare reach. If not the reach shortens by about 3mm per 1cm of stack. It is quite clear - the fork steerer is not 90 degrees so you see that the higher you go the reach shortens..what that means for you? You can't just compare reach number from tables but first look at stack. If some frame has lower stack, you will comparatively put there more spacers and it means that your final reach will be lower than what the table shows - it is approximately 3mm of shorter reach per 1cm of stack height difference.
Sometimes people make this mistake with reach and look at the same bike geometry. It seems that M and L sized bikes have almost the same reach and they don't realise that L size has 2cm higher stack due to longer head tube and it is in fact 6mm longer on reach vs what the number in the table shows..(when you look at top tube length there will be cca 1cm difference which can't just disappear und must (not fully if seat tube angle is not the same between sizes) exhibit in the reach)
You can compare easily your bike with other bikes and decide..not so complicated. Just compare stack and reach.
You can compare stack between different frames directly, it will tell you how many spacers under the stem you will need (supposing you will use stem with the same angle but that's easy to source part with older frames not made for proprietary cockpits) Stack is measured without headset cover so just check that headset covers have similar height and if not, put it into your calculation.
With reach it is slightly more complicated because reach is measured at a stack height. So if two frames have same stack, you can directly compare reach. If not the reach shortens by about 3mm per 1cm of stack. It is quite clear - the fork steerer is not 90 degrees so you see that the higher you go the reach shortens..what that means for you? You can't just compare reach number from tables but first look at stack. If some frame has lower stack, you will comparatively put there more spacers and it means that your final reach will be lower than what the table shows - it is approximately 3mm of shorter reach per 1cm of stack height difference.
Sometimes people make this mistake with reach and look at the same bike geometry. It seems that M and L sized bikes have almost the same reach and they don't realise that L size has 2cm higher stack due to longer head tube and it is in fact 6mm longer on reach vs what the number in the table shows..(when you look at top tube length there will be cca 1cm difference which can't just disappear und must (not fully if seat tube angle is not the same between sizes) exhibit in the reach)
Hi guys,
Thank you for the replies and tips! Ia it also possible to buy a cx / cyclocross bike for road use and some gravel roads? Live amongside the area of the amstel gold race.
https://ibb.co/N1pNsRt
https://ibb.co/QHSpjns
Thank you for the replies and tips! Ia it also possible to buy a cx / cyclocross bike for road use and some gravel roads? Live amongside the area of the amstel gold race.
https://ibb.co/N1pNsRt
https://ibb.co/QHSpjns
In Dutch, my measurements:
https://ibb.co/kQB88dv
https://ibb.co/b5Vvwjn
https://ibb.co/59VRVY5
https://ibb.co/PNq78ks
https://ibb.co/kQB88dv
https://ibb.co/b5Vvwjn
https://ibb.co/59VRVY5
https://ibb.co/PNq78ks
I have similar body proportions, my inseam is approximately 50% of my height. As @hannawald already wrote the key is to look for a frame with big enough stack figure. That does not necessarily mean the bike has a comfort geometry. For example cervelo frames tend to have bigger stack than some italian brands, although the reach may be almost the same. With long legs the saddle to bar drop may still be 5-10 cm, even if the frame has the higher stack.
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ToileySiphon
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2019 2:58 am
Cyclocross bikes have a race geometry most of the time, stay away from them.Fubar wrote:Ah thanks, did an edit. A synapse 56? Or a cyclocross bike?
We have pretty similar measurements - 177cm, with 84 cm inseam and poor flexibility despite daily streching. Race bikes don't agree with me. Look into an endurance fit - for a 56, which I think is right for your size, you should have a stack above 58 cm and reach around 38 cm.
The Synapse is an option, but having owned one, I would not buy again. Cracking paint and poor tolerances in the BB, leading to a lot of noise, plus lots of proprietary nonsense put me off the brand. My LBS also dropped them because of poor warranty service. Other options are the Trek Domane, Specialized Roubaix, Giant Defy, Canyon Endurance. Every major brand has an endurance frame, try to stay in that category even if its not as sexy as a pure race bike.
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