Zipp 303 FC 2021 not spinning when tightening the thruaxle

[matcav]

same issue here on my rear 404FC

[Noro]

same issue here on my rear 404FC

Gotta say ther what worked for me at the end was spraying a little bit of alcohol into the bearings from the end caps. Solved since then and it's been months without any issues. What it seems to be is that at some point the grease from factory feet gritty. But that's my theory and I didn't open the freehub to confirm it.

[ryanw]

Your bearings are sitting too deep on the hubshell. The end caps are binding with the hub shell / bearing recess.

Very common problem, not just associated with Zipp wheels.

You need to tap the bearings halfway out, add the end caps and then put the wheel in the bike.

Tighten the axel, which shall essentially press the bearings into the hub shell via the end caps. This will ensure the bearings are pushed in only to the point where the end cap meets the hubshell and no further. So there should be no excessive binding of end caps to hub shell when the axel is cranked to the required torque.

[jlok]

Interesting solution. If the bearing would sit too deep at the beginning so that the end cap binds with the hub shell, I think the design is a fail?

I have experienced end-cap binding once on WI CLD hub. It was early design (before changing to higher-count pawls) and WI accidentally mixed in the XMR hub axle, which is a tad bit shorter than CLD axle. Therefore, the end caps would not be pushed apart enough no matter how I set the preload ring (think the bearing as you mentioned). It will be pushed back when the thru axle is tightened. Correcting the axle length solved the issue.

[andreas]

Tighten the axel, which shall essentially press the bearings into the hub shell via the end caps. This will ensure the bearings are pushed in only to the point where the end cap meets the hubshell and no further. So there should be no excessive binding of end caps to hub shell when the axel is cranked to the required torque.

Sorry to OT, but do you tighten Roval wheels axle on Specialized frames to 15nm like the frame manuals say? On both Specialized/Roval bikes I've owned, LBS has only tightened to ~7-8nm, and I've had to re-align the brake calipers when tightening to spec. I'm worried that it's causing excessive wear on bearings & will make it hard to get the wheel off & avoid rub if replacing a punctured tube out on the road.

[matcav]

You need to tap the bearings halfway out, add the end caps and then put the wheel in the bike.

how do you do that? do you need a special tool?

[matcav]

My bet is the wave spring/washer isn't seated correctly.

Given I wasn't able to solve it myself, I went to a LBS. The mechanic removed the wave spring from the NDS and now the wheel spins properly.

However, not sure if this is a viable solution..the manual explicitly says it's "crucial" for the hub performance.

[whataboutEee]

I'm having a slightly different problem with a 2022 404 fc. after several hundred miles the front hub starts to get lots of lateral play. If I take the hub apart and reassemble then everything is perfect for a few hundred miles, but eventually things start to loosen up again. I've been making sure the thru axle is torqued to spec, so I can't figure out what could possibly be coming loose, or why taking it apart and reassembling everything fixes it for awhile. Anyone have any thoughts?

[SummitAK]

The only parts of the ZR1 hub that would change lateral play is the wave springs and end caps. You have had it apart so you'll know if that is missing.They only make 100mm end caps so wouldn't think this would be an issue unless yours are out of spec.

As these are new I'd contact Zipp and ask about the issue.

[brentvelo]

I have the exact same issue with my barely 2 months old Zipp 404 FC rear wheel. I noticed the rear wheel was not spinning freely last week. Took it to my wheel guy and the wavy spring washer on the non drive side has some marks of actual wear on it. Where the highest parts of the washer are slightly ground down. Zipp said to replace the wavy spring washer so I have ordered one. Like someone else said if you take the wavy washer out the wheels spins freely, but it develops excess play in the hub after a few miles. I put the washer back in and play is gone, but wheel feels slow. This is on my Specialized Aethos BTW.

[matcav]

Zipp said to replace the wavy spring washer so I have ordered one.

I also followed the advice from Zipp / Sram customer care to get a new wave washer (it's the same as the one on the Cognition hub) but unfortunately didn't work out. Took the wheel to another authorized Zipp/Sram dealer for a full service (bearing replacement) and they decided to send back the entire wheel to Sram for a warranty replacement. Still in the process tho.

[brentvelo]

I will end up sending my wheels in as well. For the rear hub issue and they didn't drill any drain holes for water inside the rim. Pretty displeased with my first ever set of Zipp wheels.