Tips on riding in the drop for long steep descends
Moderator: robbosmans
Remember your brake balance, again from MTB, rear brake shaves speed and allows you to feather, front brake actually does the stopping..
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
Just my opinion:
You could ride MTB to develop your bike handling skills at slower speeds and on softer surfaces. Riding steep loose mud/rocks will teach you about rider position and about front and rear brake application.
However the basics are:
On fast downhill straights put weight on the pedals, 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock with your favorite foot forward. Stand low over the bike, and stretch your body weight over the whole of the bike, bottom can be behind saddle and chin near the bar. Weight is on the pedals, light firm touch on the bar.
Squeeze the brakes as though you want to squash a balloon without bursting it. Don't grab at the brakes, pull them consistently and firmly, lighter at first and harder the more they are applied.
Don't get nervous if rear of bike slides about a bit, just feather it lightly and use front brake firmly to keep bike under control. Avoid excessive use of rear brake or it can lock up and skid around too much.
Before left turns raise your left pedal and have the crank at 12 o'clock, on right turns the opposite, this naturally weights the bike and prevents pedal strike. On corners you can sit lightly on the saddle, slower corners more weight, fast none or less.
Brake before corners. Although you can brake up to the apex with practice, lighter near the apex.
You can descend on the hoods, but it's slower and uglier, also you get full braking leverage and modulation in the drops.
You want a bike fit that allows you to ride in the drops comfortably for at least 30 minutes. Some people have their bar height too low probably for aero reasons, then aren't comfortable on the drops on descents. This is up to rider choice, but riding in the drops frequently and for long periods will make you comfortable in the drops whatever the bar height.
Fast and/or steep downhill straights, low on bike, pedals flat, standing not sitting, legs and arms act as (extra) suspension. Stay relaxed and confident.
Slower corner, inner foot at 12 o'clock, sitting lightly on saddle.
Learning to endo a mountain bike can help how to learn to apply a front brake correctly.
You could ride MTB to develop your bike handling skills at slower speeds and on softer surfaces. Riding steep loose mud/rocks will teach you about rider position and about front and rear brake application.
However the basics are:
On fast downhill straights put weight on the pedals, 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock with your favorite foot forward. Stand low over the bike, and stretch your body weight over the whole of the bike, bottom can be behind saddle and chin near the bar. Weight is on the pedals, light firm touch on the bar.
Squeeze the brakes as though you want to squash a balloon without bursting it. Don't grab at the brakes, pull them consistently and firmly, lighter at first and harder the more they are applied.
Don't get nervous if rear of bike slides about a bit, just feather it lightly and use front brake firmly to keep bike under control. Avoid excessive use of rear brake or it can lock up and skid around too much.
Before left turns raise your left pedal and have the crank at 12 o'clock, on right turns the opposite, this naturally weights the bike and prevents pedal strike. On corners you can sit lightly on the saddle, slower corners more weight, fast none or less.
Brake before corners. Although you can brake up to the apex with practice, lighter near the apex.
You can descend on the hoods, but it's slower and uglier, also you get full braking leverage and modulation in the drops.
You want a bike fit that allows you to ride in the drops comfortably for at least 30 minutes. Some people have their bar height too low probably for aero reasons, then aren't comfortable on the drops on descents. This is up to rider choice, but riding in the drops frequently and for long periods will make you comfortable in the drops whatever the bar height.
Fast and/or steep downhill straights, low on bike, pedals flat, standing not sitting, legs and arms act as (extra) suspension. Stay relaxed and confident.
Slower corner, inner foot at 12 o'clock, sitting lightly on saddle.
Learning to endo a mountain bike can help how to learn to apply a front brake correctly.
Thanks guys. Its on-road with my road bike.
I guess the the feeling of the backend on turn is that when it hits a bump mid turn, it feels like the rear tire skipped a little, not really sliding per say.
I guess its put more pressure on the outside pedal, stay back. But should I sit on the saddle?
I guess the the feeling of the backend on turn is that when it hits a bump mid turn, it feels like the rear tire skipped a little, not really sliding per say.
I guess its put more pressure on the outside pedal, stay back. But should I sit on the saddle?
For loose surface:
On MTB, you can dynamicly add more traction by making your self temporary heavier then usual.
Start the crank at 3pm position with body weight low into the corner,. In the corner, you stomp pedal down and actively push the bike down to the ground. At that moment, your tire traction increase tremendously and you can turn (or brake) harder than usual. Follow that by straighten up the bar and reset your body weight and repeat the hard cornering again.
See mid to end part of this video for cornering on loose surface example.
Also, on braking on loose surface.
On MTB, you can dynamicly add more traction by making your self temporary heavier then usual.
Start the crank at 3pm position with body weight low into the corner,. In the corner, you stomp pedal down and actively push the bike down to the ground. At that moment, your tire traction increase tremendously and you can turn (or brake) harder than usual. Follow that by straighten up the bar and reset your body weight and repeat the hard cornering again.
See mid to end part of this video for cornering on loose surface example.
Also, on braking on loose surface.
-
TobinHatesYou
- Posts: 12544
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
stockae92 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 8:54 pmThanks guys. Its on-road with my road bike.
I guess the the feeling of the backend on turn is that when it hits a bump mid turn, it feels like the rear tire skipped a little, not really sliding per say.
I guess its put more pressure on the outside pedal, stay back. But should I sit on the saddle?
If the pavement is smooth, you can stay seated. If it's rough, you want to almost hover over the saddle and keep all your joints loose. Knees, elbows, wrist, even shoulders. And like I said earlier, keep your upper body low...it will improve traction on both tires while cornering.
Since no one has said it yet. LOOK UP! Knowing what is coming and looking through corners is the number 1 thing. You go where you look. This will help this line choice. Try to hit the perfect line at a slower speed before building up.
Weight on the pedals and center your body on the bike. You want to hinge at the hips with your trunk low to the bars. Relax! Slowly build up speed and try to feel the balance of the bike. Not every day is a good day to push the limits.
You can push the bike forward for hard braking, but being smooth, with good front/rear brake pressure is more important.
Try to slow down in a straight line and feather off the brakes before the apex. This is an advanced technique and you should slowly move your braking point towards this as you become more comfortable.
I would also suggest that you keep an eye on tire pressure as too much will reduce grip and too little with roll the tire. Heat from braking can add 5-10psi on a long decent. When I’m learning new tires and pushing the limits, I will lower pressures until the tire is unstable and then add just a couple PSI. This is the maximum available grip. 185lb, 28 tires tubeless at 70f/72r.
Weight on the pedals and center your body on the bike. You want to hinge at the hips with your trunk low to the bars. Relax! Slowly build up speed and try to feel the balance of the bike. Not every day is a good day to push the limits.
You can push the bike forward for hard braking, but being smooth, with good front/rear brake pressure is more important.
Try to slow down in a straight line and feather off the brakes before the apex. This is an advanced technique and you should slowly move your braking point towards this as you become more comfortable.
I would also suggest that you keep an eye on tire pressure as too much will reduce grip and too little with roll the tire. Heat from braking can add 5-10psi on a long decent. When I’m learning new tires and pushing the limits, I will lower pressures until the tire is unstable and then add just a couple PSI. This is the maximum available grip. 185lb, 28 tires tubeless at 70f/72r.
Ride fast Take chances
