My wife, who weighs just over 45 kilos and has size 36.5 shoes, had a very difficult time clipping into SPD-SL pedals. Something about the angle of the cleat entry, the size of the cleat, and the relatively small footprint made it really difficult, even on the lightest setting. She had no problems with recessed SPD or with Speedplay Zeros, which is what she ultimately kept on her bike.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun May 16, 2021 12:40 am
Strange. To me SPD-SL is far, far easier to clip into than Look KeO. Not only is it easier to hook the front tab, the rear binding is a much lighter action. If you look at SPD-SL and KeO mechanisms side-by-side, you'll notice the rear binding on the KeO pedal is significantly taller...the cleat has to slide past more material before the binding clicks into place.
But like the first three replies in this thread have indicated, Iclic is by far the easiest clip-in.
Easiest pedals to clip into?
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Grab the Shimano R550 SPD-SL. Dirt cheap, reliable, easy in and out. Great starting point. Upgrade to the next gen Dura Ace pedals to be released this year (?) if you really like SPD-SL).
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I haven't tried the origin Look Keo. When Xpedo (Keo) is set to the lightest, the force you need to clip in or clip out is even smaller than SPD, but I rate SPD easier to clip in due to hooking the front tab as you mentioned.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun May 16, 2021 12:40 am
Strange. To me SPD-SL is far, far easier to clip into than Look KeO. Not only is it easier to hook the front tab, the rear binding is a much lighter action. If you look at SPD-SL and KeO mechanisms side-by-side, you'll notice the rear binding on the KeO pedal is significantly taller...the cleat has to slide past more material before the binding clicks into place.
But like the first three replies in this thread have indicated, Iclic is by far the easiest clip-in.
\Cycomanic wrote: ↑Sat May 15, 2021 9:38 pmIclic 2 is the same system that the Time XPRO use, which are still being made. You can also still find time xpresso which use the same system essentially, but have quite sharp edges so I would recommend for going XPRO instead, because it's easier to scratch yourself on the xpressos if you somehow miss the entry and slide off (this should not be common though).
I disagree with the recommendations for SPD (not SL). I think it's generally not a good idea to start with MTB system on a road bike, mainly for two reasons. 1. the way you get into MTB pedals (at least SPD and Time Atac, don't know about eggbeaters) is quite different to road pedals, so if you want to move to road pedals later (see point 2) you need to relearn that again anyway, so might as well start with proper road pedals. 2. The connection to the pedal is quite different between road and MTB pedals. With road pedals you generally have a much broader base and more solid connection, which you really notice when riding. Road pedals give you a much more solid feeling of connection to your bike than MTB pedals. IMO that makes a big advantage and feels much better on a road bike. So likely even if you start with SPD you will want to transition to road pedals at a later point anyway. MIght as well start with the real thing, it's not really that difficult. The main thing to remember is to keep the foot that you disengage at the bottom and you come out almost automatically if you lean over. Also don't try to track stand until your comfortable with your your pedals first, learned that the hard (embarrasing) way at a traffic light when first starting off with clipless many years ago.
thanks for the updated name and yes since I'm learning I think it's better to learn a road system than MTB than change
I heard the speedplay can be hard, did she try the look or time ones? I know when I was trying to ski it was so difficult to click and in out the bindings, even on kids skis. So maybe that memory is making me worry more than I shouldCyclingGiraffe wrote: ↑Sun May 16, 2021 9:27 amMy wife, who weighs just over 45 kilos and has size 36.5 shoes, had a very difficult time clipping into SPD-SL pedals. Something about the angle of the cleat entry, the size of the cleat, and the relatively small footprint made it really difficult, even on the lightest setting. She had no problems with recessed SPD or with Speedplay Zeros, which is what she ultimately kept on her bike.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Sun May 16, 2021 12:40 am
Strange. To me SPD-SL is far, far easier to clip into than Look KeO. Not only is it easier to hook the front tab, the rear binding is a much lighter action. If you look at SPD-SL and KeO mechanisms side-by-side, you'll notice the rear binding on the KeO pedal is significantly taller...the cleat has to slide past more material before the binding clicks into place.
But like the first three replies in this thread have indicated, Iclic is by far the easiest clip-in.
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I can, i know of sevreal other who do as well.
I haven't willingly used an SPD pedal since ATAC became an option. I may even still have a couple of pairs of shiny metallic black painted ATACs with shimano logos on the endplates.