2021 Canyon Aeroad
Moderator: robbosmans
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That looks absolutely stunning! I've compared the Aeroad to an Endurace before and found the difference to be quite spectacular. Curious to hear what your findings are with the Ultimate!
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Looks great! Best colourway of the ´22 Aeroads in my opinion. Be sure to look for the rubber grommet for the front brake bleed port at the bottom of the box before discarding it.
Current:
S-Works SL8 RTP (build in progress) | Diverge Comp Carbon
Retired:
S-Works SL7 | S-Works Venge | Ultimate CF SLX Mk IV | Ultimate CF SLX Mk III | S5 | R3 | Cento | ...
S-Works SL8 RTP (build in progress) | Diverge Comp Carbon
Retired:
S-Works SL7 | S-Works Venge | Ultimate CF SLX Mk IV | Ultimate CF SLX Mk III | S5 | R3 | Cento | ...
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Haha, thanks for noticing! I actually found it in the box and took a while before I found where it should go.ill principe wrote: ↑Thu Jun 02, 2022 12:32 pmLooks great! Best colourway of the ´22 Aeroads in my opinion. Be sure to look for the rubber grommet for the front brake bleed port at the bottom of the box before discarding it.
Noticed that the brake levers/shifters are angled according to the latest trend.
I will come back with a first impression vs the Ultimate ASAP. Raining now though
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soo my seatpost <drumroll> started creaking on my second ride. total distance ridden so far 160 km (100 miles) lol. perhaps it's not extremely annoying, but there's audible rhytmic knocking, which is more pronounced when riding slower. it's quieter or goes away when you are in the drops and ride harder, but still, I imagine this might get annoying rather quickly. did anyone successfully manage to silence their seatpost? is electrical tape at the back of the post still the go-to workaround? did you guys notify Canyon or they won't propose any better solution anyway?
They’ll probably just refer you to their page. Maybe reapply the paste on the post. But also check torque setting on the rails.mal wrote:soo my seatpost <drumroll> started creaking on my second ride. total distance ridden so far 160 km (100 miles) lol. perhaps it's not extremely annoying, but there's audible rhytmic knocking, which is more pronounced when riding slower. it's quieter or goes away when you are in the drops and ride harder, but still, I imagine this might get annoying rather quickly. did anyone successfully manage to silence their seatpost? is electrical tape at the back of the post still the go-to workaround? did you guys notify Canyon or they won't propose any better solution anyway?
thanks Eterna7m, I just did full seatpost reassembly step-by-step with the video on Canyon's YT channel. there was *a lot* of grease inside, but the assembly paste was added more sparingly. maybe this was it. I'll test tomorrow. thanks for the tip! one thing I can't crack is how to loosen the saddle from GP0224 clamp hex key just spins with no resistance. am I an idiot, or missing something, or both.
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I had an issue to tilt the saddle. It sorted out itself when giving the saddle a very determined wack. Seems like there are grippy carbon paste applied to the part making it stuck easily. Don't know if this is the problem you are also referring to?
The clamp itself was otherwise a simple solution to use and easy to take off the saddle when the two (spring loaded?) parts separated but not coming totally loose.
Hope it will work out for you!
The clamp itself was otherwise a simple solution to use and easy to take off the saddle when the two (spring loaded?) parts separated but not coming totally loose.
Hope it will work out for you!
The saddle itself should be easy to remove. The one thing that’s often hard to deal with are the Stuck seat rail clamps due to the carbon paste. Search this thread for instructions on how to disassemble. Many people just hit it. For me that was a bit too much force so I used a bit of wd40 and and a screwdriver..mal wrote:thanks Eterna7m, I just did full seatpost reassembly step-by-step with the video on Canyon's YT channel. there was *a lot* of grease inside, but the assembly paste was added more sparingly. maybe this was it. I'll test tomorrow. thanks for the tip! one thing I can't crack is how to loosen the saddle from GP0224 clamp hex key just spins with no resistance. am I an idiot, or missing something, or both.
Just want to tell you my experience with the seatpost creaking. After around 1000 kms the seatpost started to make really bad sound when climbing and putting pressure on the saddle. Especially when pedaling. It happened in the middle of bikepacking trip (2000 kms) so had to go to one of the local bike shops to get it cleaned and re-greased. The issue was then resolved for 50 kms when the sound started to occur again. Not sure what to do as I cannot go the the bike shops every 50 kms. I sent a ticket to Canyon and waiting for their feedback. Will let you know.
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The "new" Aeroad CF SL with that seatpost design has this issue as well.
I firmly believe it is by design. When you have parts moving this much inside like this, it's going to creak eventually because your grease ain't going to stay there forever.
I honestly think they went over their heads with this one.
I firmly believe it is by design. When you have parts moving this much inside like this, it's going to creak eventually because your grease ain't going to stay there forever.
I honestly think they went over their heads with this one.
I think the cockpit is worse. Only to have a 15mm adjustment heightwise without having to cut the steerer (for aesthetic reasons) they’ve introduced a proprietary solution.MagicShite wrote:The "new" Aeroad CF SL with that seatpost design has this issue as well.
I firmly believe it is by design. When you have parts moving this much inside like this, it's going to creak eventually because your grease ain't going to stay there forever.
I honestly think they went over their heads with this one.
Afaik with the SL you could at least use a stem from a different manufacturer. Or at least get ANY different variation of the one that originally came with the bike.
Sold my Madone SLR, now looking to order a Aeroad.
I'm stuck between the SLX in White with Ultegra Di2, or Stealth CFR with RED AXS. If I went with the SLX would with the DT Swiss wheels out for some ZIPP 404, so the weights would be almost the same.
Or I could look at the White CFR with Durace Di2, but how nice it the Rotor Crankset?
Why can't they make a nice white CFR.
Also anyone found a nice rear light that fits nicely? Hate it when they look like they have been bolted on. I have the front covered.
I'm stuck between the SLX in White with Ultegra Di2, or Stealth CFR with RED AXS. If I went with the SLX would with the DT Swiss wheels out for some ZIPP 404, so the weights would be almost the same.
Or I could look at the White CFR with Durace Di2, but how nice it the Rotor Crankset?
Why can't they make a nice white CFR.
Also anyone found a nice rear light that fits nicely? Hate it when they look like they have been bolted on. I have the front covered.
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- carbonLORD
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Creaking post...? Last time I used Vinyl tape. This time I used ENVE Tubeless tape. Vertically along the front and rear (except where the clamping area is) as well as on left and right side. A perimeter of tape around the bottom most base of the post and around the top where the rubber gasket will cover it. Regreased the post with the white grease only around the collar. A spot of carbon paste where the clamping bolt meets the post and no creaking after 800 Km.
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