Then you have to do with the cockpit that they offer. If you want a new Aeroad where you can change the cockpit then the CF SL is the only option. It's the same mold as the CFR but you get a frame where you can change the cockpit and have easy maintenance thanks to exposed cabling.
2021 Canyon Aeroad
Moderator: robbosmans
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You can find that information when you look up your wheels on DT Swiss' support pages. The correct valve and rim tape should be listed under accessories. If this is your wheel: https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/prod ... IDJCA12565 - then you should use valves for 49-65 mm rims (sku: TVVXA72S23760S).
However the nice thing is that DT Swiss has their tubeless valve variants named after rim depth (and not the length of the valve itself): So anywhere you can buy those tubeless valves you should be able to select the option that corresponds to your rim height - in your case 49-65 mm.
- Canyon Aeroad CF SLX 8 Di2
- Cervelo Caledonia Rival eTap AXS
- Vitus Venon Evo
- Canyon Grail CF SL 8 Di2
If you say you had the saddle rail bolt removed, do I understand you correctly that you basically only had the inner parts of the clamping mechanism on the seatpost (which were stuck) and the outer parts were not present and you can freely slide the saddle? And then you held the saddle on the back and hit it on the front?Cannoli wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 1:09 pmThe hand tilting technique didn't work for me. I had to use a soft face dead blow hammer to get it to break loose. I put the stock saddle with the metal rails on to do this as I didn't want to risk cracking my carbon ceramic rails on my Selle Italia. A firm sharp blow did the trick (with the saddle rail bolt completely removed of course. This allowed me to replace the round rail mount with the oval rail mount that I bought from Canyon.thirdsun wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 12:55 pmThanks, will try again. As far as I remember though the required force almost has to feel as if I'm going to break my saddle. I'll try not tocearoad22 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 12:15 pmI had the same issues with adjusting the tilt. They probably used carbon gripper to further strengthen the clamp. You need to hold the saddle with two hands and slowly but firmly try to tilt it in either direction. Screw needs to be loose. You need quite a bit of force then it suddenly becomse loose. Giving it a smack could work aswell, but you might apply too much force. It's definitely not as easy as they make it out to be in the manual.thirdsun wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 7:50 amWell, speaking of slipping: While my seat post was slipping in the beginning I have the opposite problem with the saddle: I'd like to adjust the tilt but that thing sits so tight that I can't it loose. I understand that it apparently needs a good smacking but I feel as if I already hit it as hard as I feel comfortable with. I don't want to damage anything.
Great bike still, but the whole seatpost and saddle attachment design feels completely over-engineered.
Also you need to apply atleast 15Nm or the tilt will unloosen itself when driving over bumps. I had this happen, now using a bit more than 15Nm.
I love this bike, but the seatpost adjustments are a mess.
Last time i did it with wd40 and a screw driver but I'd prefer not to do this again
I think you're talking about two different things. First: with the stock saddle and saddle rail mount installed (round rail mount), I loosened the bolt (but did not remove) and used a dead blow hammer to break free the inner mounts from the carbon seat post to adjust tilt. I did this by firmly hitting the stock saddle at the nose and tailEterna7m wrote: ↑Fri Jul 29, 2022 9:35 pmIf you say you had the saddle rail bolt removed, do I understand you correctly that you basically only had the inner parts of the clamping mechanism on the seatpost (which were stuck) and the outer parts were not present and you can freely slide the saddle? And then you held the saddle on the back and hit it on the front?Cannoli wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 1:09 pmThe hand tilting technique didn't work for me. I had to use a soft face dead blow hammer to get it to break loose. I put the stock saddle with the metal rails on to do this as I didn't want to risk cracking my carbon ceramic rails on my Selle Italia. A firm sharp blow did the trick (with the saddle rail bolt completely removed of course. This allowed me to replace the round rail mount with the oval rail mount that I bought from Canyon.thirdsun wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 12:55 pmThanks, will try again. As far as I remember though the required force almost has to feel as if I'm going to break my saddle. I'll try not tocearoad22 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 12:15 pm
I had the same issues with adjusting the tilt. They probably used carbon gripper to further strengthen the clamp. You need to hold the saddle with two hands and slowly but firmly try to tilt it in either direction. Screw needs to be loose. You need quite a bit of force then it suddenly becomse loose. Giving it a smack could work aswell, but you might apply too much force. It's definitely not as easy as they make it out to be in the manual.
Also you need to apply atleast 15Nm or the tilt will unloosen itself when driving over bumps. I had this happen, now using a bit more than 15Nm.
I love this bike, but the seatpost adjustments are a mess.
Last time i did it with wd40 and a screw driver but I'd prefer not to do this again
Second: At a later time when I wanted to replace the stock saddle with one that had oval rails, I had to completely replace the saddle rail mount with the oval version. By this time, the stock mount was seated so firmly in the seat post, with the saddle, bolt, and outer rail mounts removed, I had to use a large flat head screw driver and a hammer to firmly tap the inner clamps of the saddle rail mount out of the seat post.
After all of that, the only way to keep the saddle from tilting after hitting bumps when riding was to torque the saddle rail bolt to ~12nm with greased saddle rail mount bolt threads.
Sorry so long, but I wanted to make sure I didn't misguide anyone that is going through the same issues.
Canyon Aeroad CFR Di2 | Canyon Ultimate SLX 9.0 Di2 | Trek Domane SL5 Disc (Gravel Bike / Fly-Away Road Bike) | Orbea Tera H-30 Disc (Touring Bike)
Thank you so much for your thorough explanation.Cannoli wrote: ↑Sat Jul 30, 2022 2:42 pmI think you're talking about two different things. First: with the stock saddle and saddle rail mount installed (round rail mount), I loosened the bolt (but did not remove) and used a dead blow hammer to break free the inner mounts from the carbon seat post to adjust tilt. I did this by firmly hitting the stock saddle at the nose and tailEterna7m wrote: ↑Fri Jul 29, 2022 9:35 pmIf you say you had the saddle rail bolt removed, do I understand you correctly that you basically only had the inner parts of the clamping mechanism on the seatpost (which were stuck) and the outer parts were not present and you can freely slide the saddle? And then you held the saddle on the back and hit it on the front?Cannoli wrote: ↑Wed Jul 20, 2022 1:09 pmThe hand tilting technique didn't work for me. I had to use a soft face dead blow hammer to get it to break loose. I put the stock saddle with the metal rails on to do this as I didn't want to risk cracking my carbon ceramic rails on my Selle Italia. A firm sharp blow did the trick (with the saddle rail bolt completely removed of course. This allowed me to replace the round rail mount with the oval rail mount that I bought from Canyon.
Last time i did it with wd40 and a screw driver but I'd prefer not to do this again
Second: At a later time when I wanted to replace the stock saddle with one that had oval rails, I had to completely replace the saddle rail mount with the oval version. By this time, the stock mount was seated so firmly in the seat post, with the saddle, bolt, and outer rail mounts removed, I had to use a large flat head screw driver and a hammer to firmly tap the inner clamps of the saddle rail mount out of the seat post.
After all of that, the only way to keep the saddle from tilting after hitting bumps when riding was to torque the saddle rail bolt to ~12nm with greased saddle rail mount bolt threads.
Sorry so long, but I wanted to make sure I didn't misguide anyone that is going through the same issues.
In the end I couldn't wait and tried it with the hammer , but that did not work at all so I used the flathead scredriver again which I hate.
I think the hammer technique does not work for me because I do not have my bike on a stand and the wheels absorb some force of the hammer.
Well anyways... how do you like the 140 mm Toto's in the back ? Still 160 in the front?
Hey, anyone having issues with rattling sound from the frame? I cannot identify what it is.
All tightened, lubed, seatpost ok.
I can only hear it when sitting, when standing not.
When not pedalling I cannot hear it because of the loud rear wheel hub .
https://youtube.com/shorts/-KxNo1ntP20
All tightened, lubed, seatpost ok.
I can only hear it when sitting, when standing not.
When not pedalling I cannot hear it because of the loud rear wheel hub .
https://youtube.com/shorts/-KxNo1ntP20
I'd guess it's the seatpost. Or the saddle rails.eaten14 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 8:53 pmHey, anyone having issues with rattling sound from the frame? I cannot identify what it is.
All tightened, lubed, seatpost ok.
I can only hear it when sitting, when standing not.
When not pedalling I cannot hear it because of the loud rear wheel hub .
https://youtube.com/shorts/-KxNo1ntP20
I had a rattle from the down tube area near the stem. It ended up being the Di2 cable rattling around. I tired a few things, such as placing a thin tubular shaped piece of foam up the downtube from the bottom bracket area, and also pulled on the Di2 cables a bit with the adjustable drops removed to take up some slack. Between the two, I've seemed to resolve the noise.Eterna7m wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 9:12 pmI'd guess it's the seatpost. Or the saddle rails.eaten14 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 8:53 pmHey, anyone having issues with rattling sound from the frame? I cannot identify what it is.
All tightened, lubed, seatpost ok.
I can only hear it when sitting, when standing not.
When not pedalling I cannot hear it because of the loud rear wheel hub .
https://youtube.com/shorts/-KxNo1ntP20
Canyon Aeroad CFR Di2 | Canyon Ultimate SLX 9.0 Di2 | Trek Domane SL5 Disc (Gravel Bike / Fly-Away Road Bike) | Orbea Tera H-30 Disc (Touring Bike)
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- Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2021 4:28 pm
Definitely the seatpost, follow this youtube video and it'll fix it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tm8CHItqUqY I had the same issueeaten14 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 8:53 pmHey, anyone having issues with rattling sound from the frame? I cannot identify what it is.
All tightened, lubed, seatpost ok.
I can only hear it when sitting, when standing not.
When not pedalling I cannot hear it because of the loud rear wheel hub .
https://youtube.com/shorts/-KxNo1ntP20
Oh my, it was the seatpost. Even after I knew that, it sounded like coming from the front.
Eitherway the video helped a lot, but I still can hear some creaking. After what I read, it seems that the "electrical tape" solution is the way to go.
Did this video help you long term?
Eitherway the video helped a lot, but I still can hear some creaking. After what I read, it seems that the "electrical tape" solution is the way to go.
Did this video help you long term?
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2021 4:28 pm
Yeah it did help long term. I also thought it was coming from the front, but its just the carbon acting as an echo chamber. I'll give it a service if I've ridden through some wet conditions a few times, I'm quite generous with the grease. First time I did it when the creak was there, there was almost none left.eaten14 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 05, 2022 1:18 pmOh my, it was the seatpost. Even after I knew that, it sounded like coming from the front.
Eitherway the video helped a lot, but I still can hear some creaking. After what I read, it seems that the "electrical tape" solution is the way to go.
Did this video help you long term?
I have a new MVP Aeroad CFR and had that slight creaking if I moved the seatpost back and forth by hand, but no noise on rides. I use the electrical tape fix and it worked, but how do you judge "as needed"? Otherwise, the bike is fantastic: very fast and comfortable. I sold my SL7 S-Works Tarmac because I felt it a bit too harsh. Had an SL6, which was more comfortable. This Aeroad is faster and more comfortable. I've got it down to 7.03 kg and would like to reach 6.8k but have run out of "tricks." I'd post a picture, but don't know how.
I have a new 2022 Aeroad MvdP version size XS (though Canyon spec called for XXS - thankfully, I let my fitter decide that one and he hit it on the nose!).
I have it down to 7.03kg. I wouldn't mind lower, but have run out of "reasonable" tricks: THM crank, FarSport wheelset with Extralite hubs, KMC chain, SwissStop rotors and pads, direct derailleur mount As is, it is faster than my former SL7 S-Works Tarmac and S-Works Venge. So I'm not too worried about weight, but then, this is "weightweenies"!
Did have the seatpost "creak", but only if I tried moving it back and forth, no noise on rides. Used the electrical tape "trick" to solve it; pretty poor given the fact that my Tarmac and Venge also had aero seatposts with much smaller rubber grommets and absolutely no noise!
Not sure if the picture came through.
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Galfer rotors and they work well with Swissstop pads because that's the combo I use.
2024 BMC TeamMachine R Building
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
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2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault - completed project, full Xplr package