YOELEO H9 handlebars

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Mcdeez
Posts: 368
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:40 pm

by Mcdeez

Nickldn wrote:
bcmf wrote:
Mon May 03, 2021 7:13 pm
I reckon I could concrete spacers in between the muonting and the underside of the stem and my Garmin would still bounce.
My problem is that I cant removeone of the bolts as the threaded section has come 'unbonded' from the carbon.
On my bars there is a bit of metal visible where the threaded section goes into the bars. To unscrew the bolt do you think it's possible to hold that part with long nose pliers and then turn the bolt?
Im sure yes, probably a threaded rivet, holt the metal part with pliers or tuny vuse grip and unscrew it

Nickldn
Posts: 1892
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:35 am

by Nickldn

bcmf wrote:
Mon May 03, 2021 8:47 pm
Yeah I reckon its the only way I am gonna get that screw out or maybe pull the whole lot out completley but that leaves me wondering will one bolt be secure enough to hold a 1030?
It also means actually breaking the supplied mount.
BUT before I go down that road I want to see what Yoeleo say or they can turnaroud and say 'Well you have broken it fully now! Tough shit.'
Hopefully Yoeleo will sort this out for you. They really should publish a torque spec, it is a carbon part after all.

I recon worse case scenario you could use araldite to glue the threaded insert back in.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg

Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg

SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress

by Weenie


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bcmf
Posts: 129
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 5:00 pm

by bcmf

I have uploaded the video to YouTube.
https://youtu.be/uM9VxJ4Kl70

bcmf
Posts: 129
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 5:00 pm

by bcmf

Double Post!

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ms6073
Posts: 4291
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

That threaded insert is toast as it has pulled free of the carbon. There needs to be spacers underneath the mount/between the threaded insert and the underside of the computer mount. Based on the screen capture below, that type of installation is simply going to pull the mount out of the carbon unless there is something opposing that force like the spacers in the image being on the underside of the mount.

Image
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

Mcdeez
Posts: 368
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:40 pm

by Mcdeez

Yep, absolutely need those spacers that are provided by yoeleo

Mcdeez
Posts: 368
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:40 pm

by Mcdeez

Probably void warranty, not yoeleos fault.

Nickldn
Posts: 1892
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:35 am

by Nickldn

This is what mine looks like.

IMG_20210504_134058_edit_326806674607944.jpg
Took me a while to figure out the optimal order for the spacers which come with it.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg

Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg

SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress

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ms6073
Posts: 4291
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

Just an observation, but it seems to me the wider spacers should be underneath to provide a more stable base which I think would alos reduce vibration. All that should be needed on the other side under the bolt head, would be a flat washer in a large enough diamter to span at least 70% of the width of the mount.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

bcmf
Posts: 129
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 5:00 pm

by bcmf

Balls. Thanks lads!
Hope my cock up stops someone else form making the same mistake!

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Seven1816
Posts: 48
Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2018 10:44 am
Location: HK

by Seven1816

Replacing the rivnut is possible, good luck with Yoeleo.
Get a small flathead screwdriver and gently tap it into the rivnut flange denting it to give a little purchase then holding that in place try unscrewing the bolt. Otherwise just cut the carbon mount, it's relatively cheap, and remove the bolt. You can then drill out the old rivnut and replace it with a new one. My mount didn't come with any tube washers luckily I had some aluminium tube washers kicking around.
IMG_6384.JPG
It's not the end of the world and not a major failure of the bars.

bcmf
Posts: 129
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 5:00 pm

by bcmf

Got the nut out. Managed to get a small screwdriver onto threads and hold it while I turned the nut.
Got some araldite between the carbon and the part,
Seemed to have worked as the nut went in and stayed in. So will put on the mount later and go for a spin later over some rough roadsand see how it holds up!

Nickldn
Posts: 1892
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:35 am

by Nickldn

Well done for getting it sorted.

I hope a bit of araldite will be enough to secure the screw, it should not need much force to keo the mount steady.

Let us know how it goes.
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg

Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg

SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress

User avatar
ms6073
Posts: 4291
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

Seven1816 wrote:
Wed May 05, 2021 5:23 am
My mount didn't come with any tube washers luckily I had some aluminium tube washers kicking around.IMG_6384.JPG
Nice. I would think the setup in your image to be a good example of how to properly install the computer mount.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



Mcdeez
Posts: 368
Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:40 pm

by Mcdeez

Cutted mine to make it closer, and less vibrations, so much better nowImageImageImage

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