SL7 or Aethos, already have SL6

[RTW]

All interesting points and thank you.

For me I had heard the SL7 was less compliant than the SL6 and the aethos more compliant.

UK roads certainly here are getting worse and the current government is unlikely to have any money to repair them before 2059 the way they're going.

I don't race, I do all my own mechanical work. Typical summer rides average about 19-20mph. Normally 3000-4000 miles a year.

I actually went and saw both s works SL7 and Aethos today. Both are stunning bikes. Having had a Bianchi Infinito, two emondas, and a cervelo C3 in recent years the tarmac is way better than any of them, although the Infinito was very light and fast. I don't want to buy a bike that's slower than the SL6 but I also don't want a bike so stiff my teeth rattle out on the crap roads. I will build it up myself from frame, and I have no issue with internal or external cables. It will get Dura Ace Di2 groupset, either this version or new, and I'd probably stick my CLX50 on either bike to start with.

I am UK based. Had an SL6 Sworks with CLX50 / eTap 11sp. Swapped it for an SL7 Sworks. Honestly they don't feel much different to ride. The SL7 is just the SL6 + 10pc in my opinion. Because of UK roads, I put 28s on it.

[ome rodriguez]

I have both SL7 and Aethos, haven't ridden the latter yet. Also had an SL6 before. The SL7 is stiffer in all places and faster.

[bikeboy1tr]

For me I would keep the 6 and build the Aethos.

[Cpritch20]

Having had the SL6 and now the SL7.....SL7 feels/is faster and what I'd call "efficiently stiff" - not uncomfortable, but stiffer than 6 and you get used to the difference quickly.

[AJS914]

I love it, but 2021 means a new build for me.
Correct me if I'm wrong but for the first time it now seems to be cheaper to build a frame up from parts than buy a full bike in the UK.

You love your bike so why doesn't 2021 mean a new build? An SL7 or Aethos are only small percentage point different than an SL6. Throw 65mm aero wheels and an aero stem/bsar on the SL6 and you'll close down a large portion of the SL7s aero advantage.

Personally, I wouldn't buy anything until bikes are back in stock and deals could be had.

I think with Specialized it's been cheaper to build your own bike from a frameset for a while, at least at the high end. If you buy a frame and score some deals on parts you can save thousands.

[tabl10s]

All interesting points and thank you.

For me I had heard the SL7 was less compliant than the SL6 and the aethos more compliant.

UK roads certainly here are getting worse and the current government is unlikely to have any money to repair them before 2059 the way they're going.

I don't race, I do all my own mechanical work. Typical summer rides average about 19-20mph. Normally 3000-4000 miles a year.

I actually went and saw both s works SL7 and Aethos today. Both are stunning bikes. Having had a Bianchi Infinito, two emondas, and a cervelo C3 in recent years the tarmac is way better than any of them, although the Infinito was very light and fast. I don't want to buy a bike that's slower than the SL6 but I also don't want a bike so stiff my teeth rattle out on the crap roads. I will build it up myself from frame, and I have no issue with internal or external cables. It will get Dura Ace Di2 groupset, either this version or new, and I'd probably stick my CLX50 on either bike to start with.

Deleted.

[lightspeedylight]

Sell the sl6 and everything you have in your garage related to bikes. Then, take your decision. I got both to see which one is the lightest, the fastest, etc. Do not listen to others...there are too many things involved: age, place, use, etc. Build your own opinions... Build your own bikes... On this way you won't regret... Never...

[Beancouter]

All interesting points and thank you.

For me I had heard the SL7 was less compliant than the SL6 and the aethos more compliant.

UK roads certainly here are getting worse and the current government is unlikely to have any money to repair them before 2059 the way they're going.

I don't race, I do all my own mechanical work. Typical summer rides average about 19-20mph. Normally 3000-4000 miles a year.

I actually went and saw both s works SL7 and Aethos today. Both are stunning bikes. Having had a Bianchi Infinito, two emondas, and a cervelo C3 in recent years the tarmac is way better than any of them, although the Infinito was very light and fast. I don't want to buy a bike that's slower than the SL6 but I also don't want a bike so stiff my teeth rattle out on the crap roads. I will build it up myself from frame, and I have no issue with internal or external cables. It will get Dura Ace Di2 groupset, either this version or new, and I'd probably stick my CLX50 on either bike to start with.

I went though the same thought process as you and ended up with a Roubaix - specialised marketeers say more aero than the SL6 - i have built it to go fast on the roads that I use and it certainly does the job.

My thinking was I would keep it until the government starting spending money on new tarmac / asphalt...!




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[Jack65]

I did some calculations comparing SL6 (Rim) vs SL7 (Disc). Using same cockpit the difference seem to be around 5 watts % 40 km/h. I haven't ridden SL7 but it can be heard a lot, that SL7 gives harsher ride. That's why it got Tarvenge nickname.

My son's built (top junior):
Tarmac SL6 Pro frameset (size M)
Ultegra Di2 8050
Rotor 3D crankset with Power2Max powermeter
S-Works Aerofly II 38cm handlebar
S-Works Multi Clip 100mm stem (will probably be changed to S-Works SL, when I get one)
S-Works Power Saddle 143mm
Zee Cage x2 (plastic)
Chinese aluminium Garmin front mount
Look Keo Blade Carbon pedals
BIKE WITHOUT WHEELS WEIGHT: 4930 grams

Bike will most of the time be used with wheels:
Roval CLX50 Tubular Front with Vittoria Corsa G2.0, 825 grams
Roval CLX64 Clincher Rear with Turbo Cotton 26mm tire, around 1500 grams including Ultegra 14-28 cassette (300 grams)
DT Swiss RWS Titanium Skewers, 45 grams
TOTAL WHEELS WEIGHT: 2370 grams

TOTAL BIKE WEIGHT: 4930 + 2370 = 7300

It's not a bad weight for a bike with 50/64 wheel combination including pedals, bottle cages and computer mount. So slighly under 7kg without them.

We may use lighter rear wheel for mountain races. But weight difference between Roval CLX50 and CLX32 Front (Tubular) is only 45 grams. So not worth buying one.

[mgrl]

I think with Specialized it's been cheaper to build your own bike from a frameset for a while, at least at the high end. If you buy a frame and score some deals on parts you can save thousands.

Yeah. I bought an outlet Aeroad SLX 9.0Di2 Disc, and have had an S-Works SL7 built up with Ultegra Di2 (going to switch the groupsets over). The result of this has been that I paid less than the price for a stock Dura Ace S-Works SL7 for that bike and an Aeroad SLX with Ultegra Di2.

[treyxt]

I think with Specialized it's been cheaper to build your own bike from a frameset for a while, at least at the high end. If you buy a frame and score some deals on parts you can save thousands.

Yeah. I bought an outlet Aeroad SLX 9.0Di2 Disc, and have had an S-Works SL7 built up with Ultegra Di2 (going to switch the groupsets over). The result of this has been that I paid less than the price for a stock Dura Ace S-Works SL7 for that bike and an Aeroad SLX with Ultegra Di2.

Whats the weight of you S-works sl7 with ultegra di2?

[RideRunSwim]

What wheels are you going to use in the new bike? If you gonna go deep section and narrow tires, then get the sl7. If you gonna go 28s and shallower depth, than Aethos. Really it comes down to if you want to maximize comfort of aero. Also fwiw, I have an aethos with the new Zipp 303 FC and 28s, I found it to have a smoother ride than a roubaix pro with future shock. Would only consider the roubaix if you like the shorter and more upright fit. But if it were me I would ride the sl6 some more, I would bet that neither bike is going to be that different.

[Roadrocket]

I have both SL7 and Aethos, haven't ridden the latter yet. Also had an SL6 before. The SL7 is stiffer in all places and faster.

Placebo or you just need to justify your purchase?

S-Works SL6: BB stiffness 76N/mm HT stiffness 105N/mm Fork stiffness 65N/mm
S-Works SL7: BB stiffness 58N/mm HT stiffness 97N/mm Fork stiffness 53N/mm

I have ridden S-Works SL6 and it was one of the stiffest bikes I ever rode (about a hair behind Cipollini RB1K, but much lighter).

With all due respect, even if the SL7 was stiffer (it´s not) and few watts faster, I doubt you would feel the difference.

[ome rodriguez]

I have both SL7 and Aethos, haven't ridden the latter yet. Also had an SL6 before. The SL7 is stiffer in all places and faster.

Placebo or you just need to justify your purchase?

S-Works SL6: BB stiffness 76N/mm HT stiffness 105N/mm Fork stiffness 65N/mm
S-Works SL7: BB stiffness 58N/mm HT stiffness 97N/mm Fork stiffness 53N/mm

I have ridden S-Works SL6 and it was one of the stiffest bikes I ever rode (about a hair behind Cipollini RB1K, but much lighter).

With all due respect, even if the SL7 was stiffer (it´s not) and few watts faster, I doubt you would feel the difference.

But have you ridden the SL7? I came from SL6 and I can feel the difference. The SL7 is faster in all places. I've been winning local races with it the past few months.
Btw, just sold my Aethos because it was like an SL6

[gurk700]

SL7 = Harsher ride due to much stiffer seatpost and aero handlebar. Faster? nah. not to a degree that makes a difference and makes you win races. Don't buy into marketing crap.
Aethos = Lighter, more comfortable, easier to live with slower (on paper) again, will make absolutely 0 difference to you unless you're a world pro.

There's no wrong choice. Get whatever you like the look of.