Ridley Noah SL Disc Build - (SL ≠ Super Light)
Moderator: robbosmans
Hello World.
This is my first complete build from scratch and I figured what better forum to post and share than right here on WW. I have read through and learned quite a bit on these forums and figured I would share my adventure here to help others and get guidance (and be ridiculed) along the way. But first a little about myself...
(Don't read my boring life history, skip to the build here - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=164597&p=1634466#p1634466)
I have been wanting to build my own bike for a while (lifetime maybe?) and have not had the time or the funds to do so but this past year has been so unusual that things lined up and I happened to have more of both time and money.
Born and raised in the east coast of the US, I have always ridden a bike of some sort from the time I was a child. In my mid teens I saved my own money and bought a Schwinn Super Sport (telling my age here) and rode the crap out of it. During that time I had the opportunity to work in a bike shop. That all gave way to surfing and travelling and bikes were lost for about 15 or so years through my 20s and into my 30's. I continued to surf and run but family took over and I did not get back into cycling until my late 30's when I found myself overweight, couching most of life and just not healthy.
A neighbor encouraged me to train for a triathlon and I started riding, running and swimming for a period of about 18 months. I blew out my knee one week before the Triathlon I was training for and was down for 12 weeks. In the meantime life got back in the way and the family and I had the opportunity to freely travel the US and Canada for a number of years. Here I am in my late 40's now living in the Pacific Northwest with some amazing roads to adventure on and have been back on the bike for about 4 years now.
I have always been competitive and never go halfass. If I got it I will throw it all down.
A conservative risk taker.
Time to build.
This is my first complete build from scratch and I figured what better forum to post and share than right here on WW. I have read through and learned quite a bit on these forums and figured I would share my adventure here to help others and get guidance (and be ridiculed) along the way. But first a little about myself...
(Don't read my boring life history, skip to the build here - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=164597&p=1634466#p1634466)
I have been wanting to build my own bike for a while (lifetime maybe?) and have not had the time or the funds to do so but this past year has been so unusual that things lined up and I happened to have more of both time and money.
Born and raised in the east coast of the US, I have always ridden a bike of some sort from the time I was a child. In my mid teens I saved my own money and bought a Schwinn Super Sport (telling my age here) and rode the crap out of it. During that time I had the opportunity to work in a bike shop. That all gave way to surfing and travelling and bikes were lost for about 15 or so years through my 20s and into my 30's. I continued to surf and run but family took over and I did not get back into cycling until my late 30's when I found myself overweight, couching most of life and just not healthy.
A neighbor encouraged me to train for a triathlon and I started riding, running and swimming for a period of about 18 months. I blew out my knee one week before the Triathlon I was training for and was down for 12 weeks. In the meantime life got back in the way and the family and I had the opportunity to freely travel the US and Canada for a number of years. Here I am in my late 40's now living in the Pacific Northwest with some amazing roads to adventure on and have been back on the bike for about 4 years now.
I have always been competitive and never go halfass. If I got it I will throw it all down.
A conservative risk taker.
Time to build.
Last edited by backdoor on Sun Dec 20, 2020 2:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I got back into cycling on a Ridley Helium. It was an interesting find, almost like it found me. But long story short (last thing you want to read at this point are more stories) I really liked the Ridley. Sized medium it is just a hair to big for me. Earlier this year I had a bike fit and got some good measurements and decide that something in the 53-54cm range would fit me well.
I hunted through quite a few different brands and frame types and narrowed it down to a Ridley, Canyon or possibly a Cervelo. I knew I wanted a Di2 bike with Disc Brakes. I wasn't 100% sold on the integrated cockpit of each brand. They each come with thier own challenges and costs. I do like to tinker with the bikes and while integrated cabling is certainly intriguing and looks sexy, it just wasn't a must have. I knew the measurements of each frame type and the quirky ins and outs of how each bike was built. At this point I was just looking for a good deal. Over the black friday week Merlin had a great price on a Ridley Noah SL Disc. I liked the frame design that they had available and it was a Ridley small frame which was right where I wanted to be. So I pulled the trigger.
This was just the beginning....
Merlin also had some fantastic pricing on Di2 and I was able to get a good price on a pair of Vanquish 6 wheels with the sonic hubs. It was a good week for deals but got expensive really quick
I hunted through quite a few different brands and frame types and narrowed it down to a Ridley, Canyon or possibly a Cervelo. I knew I wanted a Di2 bike with Disc Brakes. I wasn't 100% sold on the integrated cockpit of each brand. They each come with thier own challenges and costs. I do like to tinker with the bikes and while integrated cabling is certainly intriguing and looks sexy, it just wasn't a must have. I knew the measurements of each frame type and the quirky ins and outs of how each bike was built. At this point I was just looking for a good deal. Over the black friday week Merlin had a great price on a Ridley Noah SL Disc. I liked the frame design that they had available and it was a Ridley small frame which was right where I wanted to be. So I pulled the trigger.
This was just the beginning....
Merlin also had some fantastic pricing on Di2 and I was able to get a good price on a pair of Vanquish 6 wheels with the sonic hubs. It was a good week for deals but got expensive really quick
Last edited by backdoor on Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
So lets get straight to the build.
Here is the current parts list -
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... 1184808804
Items highlighted in RED are items that I have not yet purchased.
Items highlighted in Orange are guessed weights on parts that I have not yet recieved (in transit or not yet purchased)
Items I have highlighted in Yellow are weights that I suspect will change (ie:hoses will be cut)
I knew this build would start at least around 7.5kg. The Noah has not been made famous because it has a dainty frame and fork. I was hoping to start close to 7.5 and possibly work my way down from there. But all the little parts and pieces add up and sadly it looks like my build will start out at right around 8kg.
I am not a lightweight cyclist. I usually float around 82 kgs and have been working my butt off and starving myself over the last couple months to try and loose weight and this week I have been able to just barely get myself under 80kgs. Because of my build I have always been able to put power down for long runs on the flats and am good at sprinting and riding smart. I know this is weight weenies but this bike build was just not meant to be a 6kg build. I do have the Helium which I have managed to get down to just under 7kgs without pedals and I am certain down the road I will replace that with something a little smaller and a little lighter.
I do want to try and cut a few corners here and there. If I could get this bike closer to 7.5kgs I think I would call it a successful build. So lets talk about some of the parts and pieces for this one.
Here is the current parts list -
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... 1184808804
Items highlighted in RED are items that I have not yet purchased.
Items highlighted in Orange are guessed weights on parts that I have not yet recieved (in transit or not yet purchased)
Items I have highlighted in Yellow are weights that I suspect will change (ie:hoses will be cut)
I knew this build would start at least around 7.5kg. The Noah has not been made famous because it has a dainty frame and fork. I was hoping to start close to 7.5 and possibly work my way down from there. But all the little parts and pieces add up and sadly it looks like my build will start out at right around 8kg.
I am not a lightweight cyclist. I usually float around 82 kgs and have been working my butt off and starving myself over the last couple months to try and loose weight and this week I have been able to just barely get myself under 80kgs. Because of my build I have always been able to put power down for long runs on the flats and am good at sprinting and riding smart. I know this is weight weenies but this bike build was just not meant to be a 6kg build. I do have the Helium which I have managed to get down to just under 7kgs without pedals and I am certain down the road I will replace that with something a little smaller and a little lighter.
I do want to try and cut a few corners here and there. If I could get this bike closer to 7.5kgs I think I would call it a successful build. So lets talk about some of the parts and pieces for this one.
Last edited by backdoor on Fri Jan 22, 2021 12:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
I do want to share some of the mental challenges I have had about building up your own bike. Most of the people on this board here are way past this stage but if you are considering but have not yet built a bike -
1. Its not cheaper than buying a prebuilt bike. I have been able to get some killer deals on parts and pieces for this build but in the end when it all adds up I could have got a newer bike with the same or similar components on it for the same price. If you do happen to get a total of all the parts and pieces for less, put a price of $40.00 an hour on your time building it and see if you really saved a whole lot. Don't build a bike to save money but do it for the passion of cycling, the art of the bike, the love of two wheels. (unless of course you are getting parts and pieces at cost and at that point you should be doing what you love and selling bikes for a profit)
2. You need tools. You may have a friend. You may have an in with the bike shop. You may have collected many tools over the years. Building a bike from the ground up will require tools that you probably don't have lying around in your garage. These tools will cost money that will increase the overall cost of your build (See #1)
3. Dedicate Space. Buy yourself a bike stand and decide what space you will dedicate to your tools, bench, parts and pieces for your project. I laugh everytime I see these you tube videos with some guy on his couch with pieces laying all over and a jar of grease and cleaner sitting on the coffee table.
4. Wifey Approved. Enough said. Moving on.
1. Its not cheaper than buying a prebuilt bike. I have been able to get some killer deals on parts and pieces for this build but in the end when it all adds up I could have got a newer bike with the same or similar components on it for the same price. If you do happen to get a total of all the parts and pieces for less, put a price of $40.00 an hour on your time building it and see if you really saved a whole lot. Don't build a bike to save money but do it for the passion of cycling, the art of the bike, the love of two wheels. (unless of course you are getting parts and pieces at cost and at that point you should be doing what you love and selling bikes for a profit)
2. You need tools. You may have a friend. You may have an in with the bike shop. You may have collected many tools over the years. Building a bike from the ground up will require tools that you probably don't have lying around in your garage. These tools will cost money that will increase the overall cost of your build (See #1)
3. Dedicate Space. Buy yourself a bike stand and decide what space you will dedicate to your tools, bench, parts and pieces for your project. I laugh everytime I see these you tube videos with some guy on his couch with pieces laying all over and a jar of grease and cleaner sitting on the coffee table.
4. Wifey Approved. Enough said. Moving on.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
- synchronicity
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You will save money when it comes to servicing it and not having to take it to the shop and nothing worse than if you have a ride planned and something isn't quite right and yoiu don't have the tools yourself. Anyway investing in your health is always a good way to spend your money.
Congrats and looking forward to the noah.. Was looking at one myself before I got my diamante.
Congrats and looking forward to the noah.. Was looking at one myself before I got my diamante.
Formerly known as Curryinahurry
I have to agree. I guess its not necessarily that you need more space but purposefully using the space you have and making the best of it.synchronicity wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 5:43 amSome people can't afford more space. Good on them I say.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
This is totally true. It's nice to be able to have everything dialed in each time you head out. Especially if its inconvenient to get to the shop. The nearest shop from me is over an hour away and it's always busy with at least a weeks worth of work booked before they can even take a look at your bike.MrCurrieinahurry wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 5:50 amYou will save money when it comes to servicing it and not having to take it to the shop and nothing worse than if you have a ride planned and something isn't quite right and yoiu don't have the tools yourself. Anyway investing in your health is always a good way to spend your money.
Congrats and looking forward to the noah.. Was looking at one myself before I got my diamante.
It's an investment for sure but pays out over time I guess.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
Looking at your build not not sure you can get to 7,5 kgs, yes with dura ace and lighter wheels. But I guess that's ok, I have ridden Vanquish wheels and they don't feel sluggish.
You need to save weight on small parts without going exotic..Lizzard skins bar tape will be around 30g lighter and it is great. Throw away 110g tubes:) I don't say buy Tubolitos, they are expensive when you puncture, but Conti Race Light is quite proven choice below 80g. And your tires are heavy, you will find 210-220g clincher (non tubeless) tires. Conti 5000 25mm, Pirelli P Zero Velo..these two things will save you rotational weight, which you may like with 60mm rims, not so expensive. It seems to me you have heavy bolts there, go titanium for seatpost and aluminium for bottle cage bolts. All small things count, it's fun:)
You need to save weight on small parts without going exotic..Lizzard skins bar tape will be around 30g lighter and it is great. Throw away 110g tubes:) I don't say buy Tubolitos, they are expensive when you puncture, but Conti Race Light is quite proven choice below 80g. And your tires are heavy, you will find 210-220g clincher (non tubeless) tires. Conti 5000 25mm, Pirelli P Zero Velo..these two things will save you rotational weight, which you may like with 60mm rims, not so expensive. It seems to me you have heavy bolts there, go titanium for seatpost and aluminium for bottle cage bolts. All small things count, it's fun:)
@hannawald - It is fun. I think I may have about 100g of low hanging fruit I could get rid of by doing as you mentioned. Titanium bolts, bartape, tires and tubes, etc.
If I really want to drop below 7.5 I think it would have to be a bit more money spent in the drivetrain and wheels. If weight was the main focus for this build I'd have gone towards SRAM Red Etap and skinny wheels.
There are some 40 - 50mm lower cost disc brake wheels from Farsports, Yoleo or ICAN which all sport weights of ~1500g. A lower profile rim (25-35mm) with a disc brake could possibly be found in the ~1400g range. In addition to the tires and tubes I could possibly shave 200 - 250g off the top spending another $1200 or so.
Ive always enjoyed HED wheels and my experience with them has been rewarding but these v6's are not the lightest, my set coming in at about 1648g (No tape)
Looking at cranksets (If I really want to spend more money ) I could shave 30-40g going to carbon chainrings. Going to something like a 1500.00 THM crankset would get me down another 150g. And just switching to a Dura-Ace cassette could drop 60g as well. 250g or so there in the drivetrain.
I guess the bottom line is that spending money is what it's going to cost to get this bike down below 7.5kg. It certainly can be done but not sure it's worth that kind of spending right up front as the 400g on this bike wont make huge gains. Maybe over time I could part swap but realistically I think I would be more inclined to put those parts and pieces towards a lightweight build 3 years down the road.
It's going to be a fun build regardless. I am excited to see what this turns out to be.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
If I really want to drop below 7.5 I think it would have to be a bit more money spent in the drivetrain and wheels. If weight was the main focus for this build I'd have gone towards SRAM Red Etap and skinny wheels.
There are some 40 - 50mm lower cost disc brake wheels from Farsports, Yoleo or ICAN which all sport weights of ~1500g. A lower profile rim (25-35mm) with a disc brake could possibly be found in the ~1400g range. In addition to the tires and tubes I could possibly shave 200 - 250g off the top spending another $1200 or so.
Ive always enjoyed HED wheels and my experience with them has been rewarding but these v6's are not the lightest, my set coming in at about 1648g (No tape)
Looking at cranksets (If I really want to spend more money ) I could shave 30-40g going to carbon chainrings. Going to something like a 1500.00 THM crankset would get me down another 150g. And just switching to a Dura-Ace cassette could drop 60g as well. 250g or so there in the drivetrain.
I guess the bottom line is that spending money is what it's going to cost to get this bike down below 7.5kg. It certainly can be done but not sure it's worth that kind of spending right up front as the 400g on this bike wont make huge gains. Maybe over time I could part swap but realistically I think I would be more inclined to put those parts and pieces towards a lightweight build 3 years down the road.
It's going to be a fun build regardless. I am excited to see what this turns out to be.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
Well, it doesn´t have to be costly..if you sell Hed wheels, you will comfortably get Winspace Hyper wheels, 50mm disc with carbon spokes which are praised by Hambini and other youtubers, they seem to be really good, I just don´t like their big Hyper Hyper Hyper letters, it is really....chinese:) But they are sub 1500g, very stiff and with 10 percent discount code available from these youtubers (there is dedicated thread about them here) you are below 1000 usd.
Or you can go Light Bicycle way. I used to have their 46mm rims (28 external/21 internal) and asked them for adjusting them for my 85 kgs to be durable but lightweight. They mixed T800 and T700 carbon fibre for them and guaranteed 415g per rims, which they achieved (on 2nd attempt, so they really tried). I mixed that with 24 CX Rays spokes and Carbon Ti hubs (realible hubs cheaper (from Light Bicycle) than DT180 EXP with similar weight) and it was 1330g wheelset - I wanted that without spoke holes so I didn´t have to use any tape - another 15g saving..I was satisfied with the wheelset, I passed them to my friend just because I am building new Bianchi and I want it to be more "posh" but function wise it´s great. It cost me around 1100-1200 euros with all the taxes..
But honestly with 60mm wheels bikes look better and I didn´t feel extra weight with Heds, I just was careful to put there light tyres and tubes not to make the rotational weight even worse..
If you care about weight, which you have to with disc brakes bikes:)) than there is way how to make it lighter without spending that much extra..I think you will have Winspace Hyper for the price of sold Heds..
Or you can go Light Bicycle way. I used to have their 46mm rims (28 external/21 internal) and asked them for adjusting them for my 85 kgs to be durable but lightweight. They mixed T800 and T700 carbon fibre for them and guaranteed 415g per rims, which they achieved (on 2nd attempt, so they really tried). I mixed that with 24 CX Rays spokes and Carbon Ti hubs (realible hubs cheaper (from Light Bicycle) than DT180 EXP with similar weight) and it was 1330g wheelset - I wanted that without spoke holes so I didn´t have to use any tape - another 15g saving..I was satisfied with the wheelset, I passed them to my friend just because I am building new Bianchi and I want it to be more "posh" but function wise it´s great. It cost me around 1100-1200 euros with all the taxes..
But honestly with 60mm wheels bikes look better and I didn´t feel extra weight with Heds, I just was careful to put there light tyres and tubes not to make the rotational weight even worse..
If you care about weight, which you have to with disc brakes bikes:)) than there is way how to make it lighter without spending that much extra..I think you will have Winspace Hyper for the price of sold Heds..
At this point I have about 70% of my parts and pieces for this build on hand, 25% of the parts are still in limbo between Germany, the UK, China and Salt Lake City. Hoping to have most of those parts in by next week and I'll have to be patient for the handlebars coming in from China. Word on the street is that EMS can take 2-3 weeks and sometimes up to a month to deliver. The good part is that the handlebars have been ordered and packaged and shipped (they had the 400x120 in stock) and I am going to assume that customs might be a hangup and USPS has been slow lately as well.
In the meantime I think I will externally process some of the ideas that I have for this build.
Cabling -
The Noah SL Disc frame was designed for both mechanical and electronic (Di2 and ETap) shifting. It's built to have externally routed cables in the front with 3 holes in the headtube/down tube for front/rear derailleurs and rear brakes.
The front fork is designed to have the cable run through the fork from an external hole near the top of the crown that exits down behind the fork near the mount for the front brake caliper.
While I have had a professional bike fit and have all the dimensions I need from the fit and my other 2 bikes, I do want to play with the handlebars and get them set at the correct height and angle before I start cutting down the steerer. The F1 bars ordered from farsports have an adapter that allows you to change the angle of the stem from 7 degrees to 10 degrees to 13 degrees. I'll want to play with that a little before I decide on a permanent angle and adjust the stack height accordingly with the spacers. I'd like to keep it at 10 degrees but 7 degrees might end up being what I go with to keep the space stack low.
The fork for the Noah SL Disc Aero+ and the SL Disc are exactly the same fit. With the Aero+ forks D-Shaped steerer tube I would be able to fully integrate the cables into the handlebars on this bike. I have been trying to buy an Aero+ fork for this bike with not much luck (Ridley has none in stock). Without the D-Shaped steerer tube I would only be able to run the front brake cable through the frame.
So as a plan B, I am going to have a custom aluminum expander built that would allow me to run the front hydraulic brake hose from the handlebars into the steerer tube down into the fork. In addition to the expander, the other modification for this would be to drill a 7mm hole in the top of the cable path in the fork to allow the hydraulic hose to run up through the fork into the steerer tube. The last modification would to be to drill a hole through the stem clamp on the handlebar to allow the cable to run into the steerer tube from the handlebars. I'll sketch up some drawings and pictures as I get further into this project.
One other small frame modification that I will need to do will be to the rear hydraulic brake cable routing built into this frame. On the left side of the frame down tube there is an internal cable route for the rear brake. It's nice to have the cable route built in as running cables through this frame will be a cake walk. What I would like to do is to have the rear hydraulic cable come through the front derailleur hole in the head tube with the Di2 cable (Heatshrinked together) as opposed to the brake routing in the side of the down tube and the Di2 cable in the headtube in the front. Similar to the fork modification, I'll have to punch a hole into the top part of the cable route to feed the hydraulic cable through to the front of the frame. It'll be an interesting project. But before I even get to that point I will run all the cables external to dial the front end in. Hopefully I can get a D-Shaped steerer before I tighten up the cabling. If not I will go with the single rear cable and Di2 cable combined as the only exposed cable and run the front brake cable internally.
In the meantime I think I will externally process some of the ideas that I have for this build.
Cabling -
The Noah SL Disc frame was designed for both mechanical and electronic (Di2 and ETap) shifting. It's built to have externally routed cables in the front with 3 holes in the headtube/down tube for front/rear derailleurs and rear brakes.
The front fork is designed to have the cable run through the fork from an external hole near the top of the crown that exits down behind the fork near the mount for the front brake caliper.
While I have had a professional bike fit and have all the dimensions I need from the fit and my other 2 bikes, I do want to play with the handlebars and get them set at the correct height and angle before I start cutting down the steerer. The F1 bars ordered from farsports have an adapter that allows you to change the angle of the stem from 7 degrees to 10 degrees to 13 degrees. I'll want to play with that a little before I decide on a permanent angle and adjust the stack height accordingly with the spacers. I'd like to keep it at 10 degrees but 7 degrees might end up being what I go with to keep the space stack low.
The fork for the Noah SL Disc Aero+ and the SL Disc are exactly the same fit. With the Aero+ forks D-Shaped steerer tube I would be able to fully integrate the cables into the handlebars on this bike. I have been trying to buy an Aero+ fork for this bike with not much luck (Ridley has none in stock). Without the D-Shaped steerer tube I would only be able to run the front brake cable through the frame.
So as a plan B, I am going to have a custom aluminum expander built that would allow me to run the front hydraulic brake hose from the handlebars into the steerer tube down into the fork. In addition to the expander, the other modification for this would be to drill a 7mm hole in the top of the cable path in the fork to allow the hydraulic hose to run up through the fork into the steerer tube. The last modification would to be to drill a hole through the stem clamp on the handlebar to allow the cable to run into the steerer tube from the handlebars. I'll sketch up some drawings and pictures as I get further into this project.
One other small frame modification that I will need to do will be to the rear hydraulic brake cable routing built into this frame. On the left side of the frame down tube there is an internal cable route for the rear brake. It's nice to have the cable route built in as running cables through this frame will be a cake walk. What I would like to do is to have the rear hydraulic cable come through the front derailleur hole in the head tube with the Di2 cable (Heatshrinked together) as opposed to the brake routing in the side of the down tube and the Di2 cable in the headtube in the front. Similar to the fork modification, I'll have to punch a hole into the top part of the cable route to feed the hydraulic cable through to the front of the frame. It'll be an interesting project. But before I even get to that point I will run all the cables external to dial the front end in. Hopefully I can get a D-Shaped steerer before I tighten up the cabling. If not I will go with the single rear cable and Di2 cable combined as the only exposed cable and run the front brake cable internally.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
Finally got all the parts and pieces in and I have been slowly working on the bike when time allows and just haven't really had time to sit down and post anything. I have updated the weight listing with what I currently know (Yellow highlights reflect possible weight changes after installation of parts - ie. trimming brake lines, cutting bar tape)The updated the list with the current weights is here -
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... 1184808804
I have also updated the first post with the listing page to link to the "live" document as well. If you want/need a copy for your own build let me know and I will gladly share a blank spreadsheet.
I started plugging in and testing all of the Di2 equipment. Much easier to troubleshoot and update all the components before installing in the bike. No issues and everything worked as it should. I added the Shimano Wu111 component and its working as it should. Will be nice to integrate shifting with the Garmin head unit.
I also taped up the rims and put some tires on them so I could install the fork and take a look at the F1 bars and how the front end was going to shape up. Building a bike is pretty straight forward but my biggest challenge will be getting the front end dialed in with the handlebars/spacers and cabling throught the frame. The headset cap and spacers that came with the bars are not a perfect fit. I had guessed this would be the case before I ordered the bars and now I will have to figure out how I want this front end to look when I get it all dialed in.
Here are some of the issues I am having with the headset spacers (Also posted in the 3D Printing thread) -
Issue one is that I need about 25mm of spacers in addition to the 10mm on the cap. The handlebars are the Farsports F1 Carbon bars. They are quoting me $15.00 for the spacers and $35.00 to ship. So I figured I would take on a project and will be using CAD to redesign this area of the bike.
Issue two is that the headset cap doesn't perfectly fit the bike and leaves a little bit of a gap. I have it sanded down and machined to get a closer fit but I am pretty sure that I can design a cap that perfectly fits the bike and maybe looks a little sleeker in design. Issue three is that the F1 handlebars come with an adapter to adjust the angle of the stem. When used with the adapter that gives you the -13 degree angle on the stem, the downward angle of the stem puts pressure on the spacers so that the back of the spacers flare up and leave a gap.
Here is a picture of the spacers with the adapter - I asked Farsports about this and they said (quoted from the email) "Our OD1 spacer can't be used with the -13 degree angle adjuster, it can only work with 0 degree one". Unfortunately this Noah build needs a -13 degree stem for it to be perfectly level to the ground which was one of the reasons I bought these bars so I'll have to print up a spacer to fix the issue.
So needless to say it will be interesting to see what I can come with in the 3D printing realm to clean up this area of the bike.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... 1184808804
I have also updated the first post with the listing page to link to the "live" document as well. If you want/need a copy for your own build let me know and I will gladly share a blank spreadsheet.
I started plugging in and testing all of the Di2 equipment. Much easier to troubleshoot and update all the components before installing in the bike. No issues and everything worked as it should. I added the Shimano Wu111 component and its working as it should. Will be nice to integrate shifting with the Garmin head unit.
I also taped up the rims and put some tires on them so I could install the fork and take a look at the F1 bars and how the front end was going to shape up. Building a bike is pretty straight forward but my biggest challenge will be getting the front end dialed in with the handlebars/spacers and cabling throught the frame. The headset cap and spacers that came with the bars are not a perfect fit. I had guessed this would be the case before I ordered the bars and now I will have to figure out how I want this front end to look when I get it all dialed in.
Here are some of the issues I am having with the headset spacers (Also posted in the 3D Printing thread) -
Issue one is that I need about 25mm of spacers in addition to the 10mm on the cap. The handlebars are the Farsports F1 Carbon bars. They are quoting me $15.00 for the spacers and $35.00 to ship. So I figured I would take on a project and will be using CAD to redesign this area of the bike.
Issue two is that the headset cap doesn't perfectly fit the bike and leaves a little bit of a gap. I have it sanded down and machined to get a closer fit but I am pretty sure that I can design a cap that perfectly fits the bike and maybe looks a little sleeker in design. Issue three is that the F1 handlebars come with an adapter to adjust the angle of the stem. When used with the adapter that gives you the -13 degree angle on the stem, the downward angle of the stem puts pressure on the spacers so that the back of the spacers flare up and leave a gap.
Here is a picture of the spacers with the adapter - I asked Farsports about this and they said (quoted from the email) "Our OD1 spacer can't be used with the -13 degree angle adjuster, it can only work with 0 degree one". Unfortunately this Noah build needs a -13 degree stem for it to be perfectly level to the ground which was one of the reasons I bought these bars so I'll have to print up a spacer to fix the issue.
So needless to say it will be interesting to see what I can come with in the 3D printing realm to clean up this area of the bike.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg