Ridley Noah SL Disc Build - (SL ≠ Super Light)

[backdoor]

With the cabling I had to poke a hole in the side channel that is built into the bike to run the brake line. This allows me to bring the brake line through the front of the frame instead of out the side. When I first took a look at this I thought it was going to be fairly simple to get the hole in there. But it ended up taking a little more patience and quite a bit longer than I expected it to.

The initial poke was about 2-3mm. I needed to find a way to get this to 5+mm without damaging the frame

This shows where the cable will slide through the front of the frame and come out by the head tube.

Using a bit of Racer Tape I covered up the frame to keep from damaging it with the file. It would have been nice to have some tiny tools here to use to open the hole. It took quite a bit of patience to slowly file this hole. I did have one little ding but that only shows up on camera

I finally was able to slide the cable through. I believe the BH-90 tubing is slightly larger so will take a little bit more work but its nice to know I am almost there and that the cable will fit.

I am also planning to run the Di2 and brake line through the same exit hole in the front of the frame. To do that and limit any damage to the Di2 wire I'll have to file down a little slot in the exit hole for the Di2 cable to sit in and minimize the wear on the cable from movement. I'll also have to do a little modification on the rubber grommit so that it all fits snug.

Slowly getting there. I think once I get the headset/handlebars and cables dialed in the rest should go pretty quick.

[Stendhal]

This is an excellent thread, keep up the good work!

My second favorite bike ever was a Noah, the version with the split front fork. I bought a very blemished frame on eBay for $700 and had it built with a 105 drive train. I later had it rebuilt with Red / Force and got it down to 16.75 lbs with pedals. It was stiff yet comfortable and sailed through the air, riding much lighter than its weight. Sadly the fork was destroyed and the frame dented in a collision with an illegally turning driver

[Bonification]

This is a wonderful thread and a beautiful build!

Planning to build up a Wilier Cento 10 Pro with the Farsports F1 and I want to get the front end as low as possible with the 13* sleeve and was wondering how you got on with 3d printing as imagine I will have the same issue as you with the gaps?

[backdoor]

Thanks @Stendhal @Bonification

Between a busy few weeks of work, family, kids, getting rides in, skiing and getting stuff done around the house, I have not had much time to work on the bike and post here.

3D printing has been great. Nice to be able to design what you need and see it come together. I now have 2 different copies of my original drawings. One printed in ABS and one is PA12. They came out pretty darn close to what was shipped from Farports. Here are some pictures of the original Farsports OB1 spacer next to the ABS printed spacer and the PA12 printed spacer.

Here you can see the difference in the 3 different spacers. The ABS spacer is the hardest plastic of the three but overtime in sunlight won't hold up to the other 2 Nylon printed spacers. You can see that the PA12 has a little bit of a better surface than the Farsports spacer.

Here is an up close pic with the PA12 on the left, Farsports in the center and the ABS on the right. You can see that I did not round the top of the spacer in the cad. This was a mis on my part in the drawing. Its very slight. Other than that the spacers seem to be spot on with the farsports spacer. I'll fix this in the next round of prints.

Here is a close up comparing the Farsports spacer with the PA12 spacer that I printed.

Here you can see that I got the angle exact on the spacers. It was hard to get a good close up pic of them stacked as they kept moving. Will have to take a look at them once I get them on the bike.

Ultimately it is going to be a single printed sleeve spacer. These were just printed so that I could test how they wopuld come out and also so that I could get the height adjustment right without having to pay 50$ for another set of spacers from Farsports. And now that I got this far it will be fun designing something that flows better overall with the way the Noah is setup. Maybe I'll get a little creative with it and design them to split so I can adjust the height without having to take the whole front end apart...

[backdoor]

After testing the Di2 on the workbench the next step was getting it installed on the bike.

Cabling the handlebars has been and still is the biggest challenge in this bike build. These Farsports F1 bars do not have large holes and lots of room for cables in the bends down to the drops. Getting one cable in has been no problem but getting 2 can be challenging.
I have not yet gotten to the point to run the brakelines through the handlebars but that will be a test of patience for sure.

The Di2 kit comes with a "Y" cable for the front bars and a junction box for the bottom bracket. One thing that bothered me was that the "Y" cable has a thicker junction that would not fit into the handlebars. It would also leave me with a break in the cables where I would have to add a connector between the "Y" cable in the handlebars and Di2 cable coming up from the frame.

Because of this I took another approach to the Di2 cabling. Instead of using the "Y" cable in the handlebars I moved it down to the bottom bracket to connect to the rear and front derailleurs to the bottom bracket junction box and then used the rear derailleur cable (in Red in the drawing) to make the connection from the RS910 Junction/Charger connector and the opposite Shifter. I did this because the longest cable in the kit wouldn't quite reach the RS910 box in the handlebar end from the junction box in the bottom bracket.

One tool that was super cheap and was really helpful in running the Di2 cables was this Jagwire internal routing tool replacement kit. It wasn't the full tool but just the parts and pieces that are sold as replacement parts to the full tool. I got this for about 8$ shipped from Universal cycles. I had a pile of magnets already in hand and there was no need to buy the entire tool just to have the magnet to run the cables through the frame.

While running the single cable through the handlebars was no trouble I found that the second cable did not always slide through so easily. It was often easier to run a string through with the magent and then pull the cable through with the string. Each cable run had its own challenge and it made me appreciate the challenges bike mechanics have with all the different bike setups they see in the shop.
Here is a pic of the setup I used -

Finally all the Di2 cables are routed through the handlebars -

I used a tiny bit of bubble wrap to keep the WU111 unit from bouncing around in the handlebars. Next step will be getting the brakelines routed and the Di2 cable from the frame up into the handlebars into the shifter.

[backdoor]

The cable entry point in the front of the frame was a little too small to comfortably fit both the Di2 cable and hydraulic brakeline. They both fit but there was a little pressure on the Di2 cable. Worried that over time the friction with the movement of cables would cause a break in the Di2 line, I filed a little gap for the Di2 line to sit in.

Here is the entry point -

This shows the cables before making the gap for the Di2 line -

Here are the cables after making a little gap for the Di2 line -

Here are some more of the Di2 connections -
Rear Derailleur -

And then there are the bits and pieces -

Not sure where all of these go but been figuring it out as I move along.

These little nuggets in the front are only made to have a single Di2 line come through them. I will have to get creative and see what I can do to make the brakeline fit here along with the Di2 cabling -

And almost forgot, need to get the heatshrink in place before I start cabling those handlebars -

[Bonification]

Wow amazing work!

3D Printing looks very professional - how much skill level does it take to get to the point where you can do this kind of thing!

Also what is the stack height of the Farsports handlebar? - looks around 400mm but curious to know exactly from a fit point of view

Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing this beauty in complete form!

[backdoor]

Wow amazing work!

3D Printing looks very professional - how much skill level does it take to get to the point where you can do this kind of thing!

Thanks. I used Sketchup to do the initial drawings and then exported from Sketchup to an STL file and sent that off to the printers to get printed.

You'll need some experience drawing in CAD or similar software to make your drawings.

I've got experience using Vivien, Vectorworks and Autocad for my work. I used Sketchup because I just happened to have a current license for it. It's free for the online version and a good place to start to learn CAD (Some of the other CAD software is very expensive, Vectorworks can cost over $3000 with the yearly fee).

It took quite a bit of patience and time taking measurements using a digital caliper and an angle ruler and checking them over and over to make sure it was accurate.

Also what is the stack height of the Farsports handlebar? - looks around 400mm but curious to know exactly from a fit point of view

Not sure exactly what you are asking. Stack height is the distance on a frame measured between the horizontal plane from the top of the head tube and the horizontal plane from the center of the bottom bracket.

Not sure where the stack height would be on the handlebars.

400mm would typically be the width of the handlebars from center to center of where the shifters would be located. Some measure outside to outside of the bars but c2c is the standard.

The bars I have here are 380mm C2C. I started off with a different set of handlebars (that were 400mm) but recently switched. More on that later...

-Sean

[Bonification]

Thank you for your replies - all super helpful for informing my build!

Sorry by stack height I meant the stack of the stem i.e the height of the stem of the bar - typed in another 0 by accident!

Cheers,
Michael.

[backdoor]

Thank you for your replies - all super helpful for informing my build!

Sorry by stack height I meant the stack of the stem i.e the height of the stem of the bar - typed in another 0 by accident!

Cheers,
Michael.

Michael - Check over on the F1 Thread. Link here - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=159808&start=360#p1658081
I think this is what you are looking for. The Stem height is 4cm.

-Sean

[backdoor]

So this past month I finally finished a big work project and had some time get back to the bike and work on it some more. I had kind of come to a standstill with this F1 Spacer issue. Primarily that the OD1 spacer kit is not supported with the -3 degree F1 Shim that comes with the handlebars. I did finally manage to get the Spacer dialed in and I will gladly share my SKP files for anyone needing to print thier own so you dont have to redesign them all over. Just send me a PM.

My memory card on my cell phone died during this project and I did not realize it until after I was finished with some of this including weights for some of the parts and pieces so I wont have as

First thing was the wheels. Weighed out the rotors. All shimano here. The RT900 rotors were about 10 grams heavier than the MT800 rotors and I think I actually think the white MT800s in white might look better on the bike.

The lockrings have a 2 gram difference between the Ultegra and the Dura Ace

Front and rear derailleur mounted along with the calipers front and rear. No drama really excepting that the R8000 groupset didn't come with the R160 Disc brake adapter for the rear wheel. Standard practice these days is 160 on the front and 140 on the rear but I am looking for a little more braking power in the rear. I have my gravel bike setup this was (160/160) and its suprising how much more power you get from the extra 20mm when bombing down the mountainside at 50mph. When I lived by the beach 140/140 is the setup I would go with but now that I am here in the mountains, I do quite a bit of climbing. I love the descents and at my weight of 82Kg its never a bad thing to have a little more braking power (at the cost of 18 grams or so which I could lose by skipping dessert). So I had to grab an adapter from Jenson for 10 bucks so I could get a 160 rotor on the rear.

Once I got the headset dialed in it was time to start cutting. I 3d printed a rather large spacer for the initial cut. Here I am using a 10mm cap, 10mm spacer and another 15mm of 3d printed spacer that was designed to accomodate the forward tilt of the handlebars. This gives me 35mm of spacer to start with. Interestingly enough the top of the headset cap on this bike with the 4cm tall F1 stem and 35mm of spacer is 90cm from the ground vs 92cm on my 56cm Helium with 10cm of spacer and 93cm from the ground on my 53.5 Blue Gravel bike with 10cm of spacer. So the design of this bike has a pretty big drop from Seatpost to Handlebars.

Here is the newly designed spacer to account for the -3 degree angle -

Slicing away at the steerer tube -

Cabling up the handlebars was a bit of a challenge. This was 2 fold -

1. Getting the brakelines in was a little bit of a mess. The Ultegra R8000 kit now ships with what Shimano calls the "Easy Hose Joint System". Simply put they ship "pre-bled" and you don't have to pump the system full of oil when you first set it up. This also means that the ends of the cables already have hose barbs and are capped to keep the oil from leaking out. They also have olives preset in the brifters under the lock bolt for the brakeline. Ideally all you have to do is run your brakelines, install the calipers and loosen up the lock bolt for the brakeline on the brifter, slide the cable in, tighten it up and you are done!

But of course the preselected length of cables isn't one size fits all. So when you cut the ends off the pre-bled brake lines you will get some oil drippage. I tried to run the lines through the handlebars with the pre-assembled barb in place and was able to pull it through one side of the bars but not the other. So there may be a drip or two of mineral oil in the carbon fiber bars.

2. The F1 handlebars shrink down to a pretty small diameter where the brake lines come out of the bars. With the Di2 lines already run there was not too much space left for the brakelines. This is where dental tools are really helpful. I was able to reach into the bars and stick this into the tip of the cable and putll the brakeline through the hole. Take a bit of patience. For those of you who grew up playing Hasbro's "Operation" game this is where all those skills pay off.

Finally the brake cables are routed -

[backdoor]

Found these pics of the White MT800 Rotors and the Black RT900 Rotors -

Which look better?

Black -

Or White?

[backdoor]

One last piece of 3D printing that was challenging was the cable guide/cover that finished the cable exit from the frame. the frame was originally designed for mech shifting and wired brakes and the cable guide was never planned to carry hydraulic brake lines or Di2 cables through it -

Here is the original cable guide. I had taken pics of the 3D printed one but lost them on the memory card

Never meant to carry anything but a mechanical cable through it -

Here is the 3D printed part on the bike. it was a challenge to print as the walls on the insert part were less than 1mm thick and broke off during installation. I did not sand it down to a nice finish and getting the shrink wrap in there was a challenge. Not super happy with how the cabling turned out. Will have to try this again if I make changes down the road to the spacers or the fork/steerer.

[backdoor]

After getting the headset spacers squared away and the cabling done the rest of the build was pretty straightforward. I still need to take it out for a ride. It is supposed to rain here all weekend and didnt want to start right off in the rain with this bike so it might be a week before i get a chance to start breaking it in and making any changes.

Total bike weight without pedals and cages was 7.5 KG

Assiomas Weigh in at 304 grams -


And bottle cages are 20 grams each.

For a finished project its a total of 7.85KG

Then add a computer, saddle bag, bottles and water and another 82Kg of rider weight...

[backdoor]

Finally some pics of the finished project -