Ridley Noah SL Disc Build - (SL ≠ Super Light)

[Kurt1980]

Nice build! Always a fan of Ridleys.

SRAM red cassettes are lighter than Dura Ace. I've picked up a good condition 2nd hand one, and given they're machined from steel, they last for ages.

Also, GXP Red cranks are 550g to 570g with rings (TA Specialites) so you can drop 100, maybe 120g from your current cranks setup.

All in all, a cheapish way to drop a couple of hundred grams, but you'll have to live with a mix of Shimano and SRAM.

Could be a cheap way to slowly transition over to mechanical Red, which is a lighter groupset compared to Ultegra by far.

Kurt

[backdoor]

Nice build! Always a fan of Ridleys.

SRAM red cassettes are lighter than Dura Ace. I've picked up a good condition 2nd hand one, and given they're machined from steel, they last for ages.

Also, GXP Red cranks are 550g to 570g with rings (TA Specialites) so you can drop 100, maybe 120g from your current cranks setup.

All in all, a cheapish way to drop a couple of hundred grams, but you'll have to live with a mix of Shimano and SRAM.

Could be a cheap way to slowly transition over to mechanical Red, which is a lighter groupset compared to Ultegra by far.

Kurt

Thanks Kurt. This build wasnt for the lighter weight necessarily but rather more aero focused. I've got a Ridley Helium at 16.9 with Ultegra in a 56 frame. I may sell that and go to a 54cm frame with a focus on lighter weight and try to get into something under 16kg.

I have a hard time going to SRAM as it's just not as "crisp" shifting as the Shimano counterparts. I have a friend who raced professionally his whole life and is an admitted campy addict and now has a bike with SRAM AXS Red and he'll tell ya nothing shifts quite as good as Shimano.

SRAM is way better than it used to be for sure though. Lighter cranks and a sub 1200g wheelset help as well. All easy ways to save a few grams.

-Sean

[HenryH]

Brilliant job (even if Ridley should be ridden with Campagnolo ).

Got a Noah SL myself (bought from Merlin). And I have long been looking for an integrated handlebar. The F1 looks amazing on yours (well done fitting it like that) but unfortunately I need a bigger size handlebar than what they can offer.

[Kurt1980]

Nice build! Always a fan of Ridleys.

SRAM red cassettes are lighter than Dura Ace. I've picked up a good condition 2nd hand one, and given they're machined from steel, they last for ages.

Also, GXP Red cranks are 550g to 570g with rings (TA Specialites) so you can drop 100, maybe 120g from your current cranks setup.

All in all, a cheapish way to drop a couple of hundred grams, but you'll have to live with a mix of Shimano and SRAM.

Could be a cheap way to slowly transition over to mechanical Red, which is a lighter groupset compared to Ultegra by far.

Kurt

Thanks Kurt. This build wasnt for the lighter weight necessarily but rather more aero focused. I've got a Ridley Helium at 16.9 with Ultegra in a 56 frame. I may sell that and go to a 54cm frame with a focus on lighter weight and try to get into something under 16kg.

I have a hard time going to SRAM as it's just not as "crisp" shifting as the Shimano counterparts. I have a friend who raced professionally his whole life and is an admitted campy addict and now has a bike with SRAM AXS Red and he'll tell ya nothing shifts quite as good as Shimano.

SRAM is way better than it used to be for sure though. Lighter cranks and a sub 1200g wheelset help as well. All easy ways to save a few grams.

-Sean

Interesting about SRAM.... On a similar note I did notice that when I swapped from an Ultegra cassette to the Red, it was a little noisier.

Kurt

[backdoor]

Brilliant job (even if Ridley should be ridden with Campagnolo ).

Got a Noah SL myself (bought from Merlin). And I have long been looking for an integrated handlebar. The F1 looks amazing on yours (well done fitting it like that) but unfortunately I need a bigger size handlebar than what they can offer.

Agreed on the Campy and certainly considered it. I did go C-Bear on the BB. Because that's what it's made for

What size are you looking for in the handlebars? Farsports advertised sizes are not the same as the actual measurements of the bars

-Sean

[backdoor]

Interesting about SRAM.... On a similar note I did notice that when I swapped from an Ultegra cassette to the Red, it was a little noisier.

Kurt

Kurt - Was talking to another friend today who rides SRAM and we both agree the SRAM shifting is more intuitive (left shifts down the cassette and right shifts up) We also wondered when the Hyperglide patent will run out and if SRAM will start making cassettes with the same ramps shimano uses.

-Sean

[HenryH]

Brilliant job (even if Ridley should be ridden with Campagnolo ).

Got a Noah SL myself (bought from Merlin). And I have long been looking for an integrated handlebar. The F1 looks amazing on yours (well done fitting it like that) but unfortunately I need a bigger size handlebar than what they can offer.

Agreed on the Campy and certainly considered it. I did go C-Bear on the BB. Because that's what it's made for

What size are you looking for in the handlebars? Farsports advertised sizes are not the same as the actual measurements of the bars

-Sean

I got 120mm with 75mm reach now. Which is slightly too short. I see Farsport´s largest is at 120mm with 73mm reach. Also I probably got wider shoulders than 99% of all cyclists. Got 440mm (c-c) now, but I wonder if 460mm would actually be the correct size. Going narrower than 440mm I don´t think would work. I set up my bike in front of a mirror some weeks ago and I am already got my arms in a slightly "inward" position from my shoulders. Meaning I think Farsports would have to be in reality 130mm and 440mm (hoods) for me to consider getting those bars.

[backdoor]

I got 120mm with 75mm reach now. Which is slightly too short. I see Farsport´s largest is at 120mm with 73mm reach. Also I probably got wider shoulders than 99% of all cyclists. Got 440mm (c-c) now, but I wonder if 460mm would actually be the correct size. Going narrower than 440mm I don´t think would work. I set up my bike in front of a mirror some weeks ago and I am already got my arms in a slightly "inward" position from my shoulders. Meaning I think Farsports would have to be in reality 130mm and 440mm (hoods) for me to consider getting those bars.

I originally ordered the 120s from farsports with the 40 width. The measurements are not 120/40 though. I posted some info here -
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=159808&start=315#p1638319

The stem measures 130cm c2c and the width is closer at just a hair over 40cm c2c at the tops, 43cm outside to outside and 42cm c2c in the drops. The reach is 75mm c2c.

I measure 42cm shoulder width and started with a pair of 42cm handlebars on my road bike and then dropped to 40s to see if there was a difference. It was way more comfy with the narrower 40s on the road bike. So I moved the 42s to the gravel bike which work great offroad.

Because the Farsports 120s measured at 130 I had to order a 2nd pair and got the 110s and I went a little bit more narrow at 38cm this time. Suprisingly I really like the 38s on this aero bike. It's not uncomfortable at all on the hoods and with the slight flare in the drops its 40cm c2c and real easy to get in the drops with the elbows in to shrink up the CDA in the front. Very noticable on descents of 70+ kph.

That being said if you got an F1 with 120mm stem it will be 130mm long. I believe they have a 120 x 42 which would fit you. No reason to go wider than 44 unless you are looking for bars on a gravel bike. If you are looking for aero gains narrow bars are the marginal gain but you'll have to try it yourself to see if that's comfortable for you. I was suprised how easy it was for me to go from 42s to 38s without being uncomfortable.

-Sean

[HenryH]

I got 120mm with 75mm reach now. Which is slightly too short. I see Farsport´s largest is at 120mm with 73mm reach. Also I probably got wider shoulders than 99% of all cyclists. Got 440mm (c-c) now, but I wonder if 460mm would actually be the correct size. Going narrower than 440mm I don´t think would work. I set up my bike in front of a mirror some weeks ago and I am already got my arms in a slightly "inward" position from my shoulders. Meaning I think Farsports would have to be in reality 130mm and 440mm (hoods) for me to consider getting those bars.

I originally ordered the 120s from farsports with the 40 width. The measurements are not 120/40 though. I posted some info here -
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=159808&start=315#p1638319

The stem measures 130cm c2c and the width is closer at just a hair over 40cm c2c at the tops, 43cm outside to outside and 42cm c2c in the drops. The reach is 75mm c2c.

I measure 42cm shoulder width and started with a pair of 42cm handlebars on my road bike and then dropped to 40s to see if there was a difference. It was way more comfy with the narrower 40s on the road bike. So I moved the 42s to the gravel bike which work great offroad.

Because the Farsports 120s measured at 130 I had to order a 2nd pair and got the 110s and I went a little bit more narrow at 38cm this time. Suprisingly I really like the 38s on this aero bike. It's not uncomfortable at all on the hoods and with the slight flare in the drops its 40cm c2c and real easy to get in the drops with the elbows in to shrink up the CDA in the front. Very noticable on descents of 70+ kph.

That being said if you got an F1 with 120mm stem it will be 130mm long. I believe they have a 120 x 42 which would fit you. No reason to go wider than 44 unless you are looking for bars on a gravel bike. If you are looking for aero gains narrow bars are the marginal gain but you'll have to try it yourself to see if that's comfortable for you. I was suprised how easy it was for me to go from 42s to 38s without being uncomfortable.

-Sean

Thansk. Love your posts. Very informative.

I have considered going slightly narrower, but it seems like the angle my wrists are coming in just makes everything "twists" in an unfortunate way. Biggest issue is the length though. I'm tall (6ft6) so I tend to need a long stem on most bikes.

I see from your measurements that even if the stem is longer (for some reason) the reach is even shorter than stated.

Did some new measurements on my current setup, but I'm not sure if I would find any integrated handlebar long enough. Even the Vision Metron 130mm with 80mm reach are measuring shorter than my current setup.

[backdoor]

Thansk. Love your posts. Very informative.

I have considered going slightly narrower, but it seems like the angle my wrists are coming in just makes everything "twists" in an unfortunate way. Biggest issue is the length though. I'm tall (6ft6) so I tend to need a long stem on most bikes.

I see from your measurements that even if the stem is longer (for some reason) the reach is even shorter than stated.

Did some new measurements on my current setup, but I'm not sure if I would find any integrated handlebar long enough. Even the Vision Metron 130mm with 80mm reach are measuring shorter than my current setup.

6'6" is a tough size to be in the cycling world!

Hope you can figure it out and make it all work. If you are serious into cycling and have never done a pro fit it's worth the money to get it dialed in.

I am always tinkering with my fit and I find it's best (if you can) to go extreme one way and slowly bring it back until you find that sweet spot. It's a bit of work but there is nothing sweeter than a perfectly fitted bike.

-Sean

[choochoo46]

That is a sweet looking bike. Congrats on the build and thanks for sharing your adventure with us. I'm sure you'll have a blast riding it.