New De Rosa SK Pininfarina build - couple of questions

[sixfour]

Hi there,

Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions. I hate to start with a first post that asks a question rather than giving advice or helping others but hopefully other SK owners may find this useful in the future.

I have just bought a 2019 De Rosa SK Pininfarina frameset from Wiggle at a Black Friday discounted price. It was just over £1,000 and seems like a good buy - who knows, we shall see!

I wouldn't say it was an impulse buy because I've had my eye on this frame for some time now and just love the look of some of the completed bikes. There are some amazing images and posts on this forum, which I have been avidly reading. But it was bought pretty hastily and unexpectedly.

Funds are very limited right now, even more so after the purchase. So my intention is to go for a 'poverty spec' bike first and then upgrade in the future. By chance I have just bought new DT Swiss wheels and a Shimano 105 groupset for another existing seven year old bike. These components will now find their way onto the De Rosa instead. Sacrilege to fit such basic, heavy components? And non-campy too? Perhaps, but money is tight right now and it is what it is. I will upgrade when I can (and if I feel I need to - 105 is excellent now).

The frame should arrive on 4 December, so I am trying to source any other parts I need before then. I have a couple of install questions and would be extremely grateful if existing De Rosa SK owners can help. Yes, I have searched this forum and others until my eyes started to bleed!

1. Mechanical cable routing. Another post (very good reading) on here suggested that mechanical routing was awful in this frame and that the derailleur cables had to be sleeved becasuse no cable guides or grooves exist near the bottom bracket. Is this so for every frame or did that owner have a part missing? Can anyone please confirm? I am used to the internal cables being 'naked'.

2. The BB386EVO bottom bracket and Shimano Hollowtech II. What did other owners use here as a solution? I have found inserts from FSA or complete units (that narrow the diameter to 24mm) from C-Bear, Rotor and Kogel. What did others use here please? Wiggle tell me the Rotor part they have in stock that should do the job won't fit because the cups bulge out too far each side of the BB Shell, making it impossible for the cranks to meet (I hope that makes sense). I just want to order a part that I know will fit.

Thanks in advance for any help - it really is appreciated. I'll post some images when the frame arrives.

[Visqu]

1. Mechanical cable routing. Another post (very good reading) on here suggested that mechanical routing was awful in this frame and that the derailleur cables had to be sleeved becasuse no cable guides or grooves exist near the bottom bracket. Is this so for every frame or did that owner have a part missing? Can anyone please confirm? I am used to the internal cables being 'naked'.

I just built one up, a rim brake model, Campy SR EPS 12s, so an eletronic build.
Same stock as your's since this came from Chainreactioncycles.com

I can confirm that there's no proper routing for mechanical shifting.
There are two loose cable liners running from the top tube port down to the bb though,
I guess those are meant to be used for routing.

Ride is very stable, carves turns nicely and it's very comfortable for what it is, unfortunately there is no snap to the bike, good descender I'd imagine.

[sixfour]

1. Mechanical cable routing. Another post (very good reading) on here suggested that mechanical routing was awful in this frame and that the derailleur cables had to be sleeved becasuse no cable guides or grooves exist near the bottom bracket. Is this so for every frame or did that owner have a part missing? Can anyone please confirm? I am used to the internal cables being 'naked'.

I just built one up, a rim brake model, Campy SR EPS 12s, so an eletronic build.
Same stock as your's since this came from Chainreactioncycles.com

I can confirm that there's no proper routing for mechanical shifting.
There are two loose cable liners running from the top tube port down to the bb though,
I guess those are meant to be used for routing.

Ride is very stable, carves turns nicely and it's very comfortable for what it is, unfortunately there is no snap to the bike, good descender I'd imagine.

Thanks for your help Visqu, I've read some of your posts and your SK looks fantastic - love the colour. I'm glad it is not 'all show and no go' though, which was one of my concerns.

Yes, your's would have come from the same stock - you had trouble with some of the small parts didn't you? I queried Wiggle about this and they admitted that some frames go out without some parts but that they would source parts or partly refund me if this happens with my frameset. I don't know why they can't check the boxes before they send them out. The price seems very cheap - do you know if this stock is refurbished or ex-returns? Obviously it is end of line because the 2020 model has been around some time now.

I imagine the rear brake cable outer will fit through the top tube without any issues?

I know you're running electronic but I think the shifter cable for the front derailleur exits between the chainstays/rear top of the BB. This is the normal place for it to exit, so no surprise there. I wonder if that hole is large enough to get a shifter outer through or if it is only big enough for bare cable or a very thin liner?

If you know the answer to these questions fantastic, but please don't go out of your way on my account.

Thanks for your help! Much appreciated!

[Visqu]

..

No problem and thanks for the compliments!

My frame was shipped without some essential small parts, like the seatpost clamp..
CRC wasn't able to recover or source the missing parts so I had to procure them myself and they covered the cost.
Satisfactory ending but took a really long time. I managed to get original parts from De Rosa via my local retailer.

I think these frames are all new but of some transition model, they're the old design but new logos and colors, 2020 models have gone through some improvements to the frame. Wiggle/CRC probably purchased the whole existing stock or something along those lines.

The FD cable drilling by the chainstays will fit a shift cable liner, not an outer though.
Rear brake routing is done the normal way with end caps, so no issue there.

For shifting, I think the frame is supposed to be routed using the supplied liners, you'd have outers running from the shifters to the top tube cable stop, then the FD cable would run with the liner all the way to the FD. RD would have the normal end cap and outer at the back. Only difference to how it's normally done would be that internally the cable just runs in the liner and is not routed via any guides. Works, I suppose, ideal, probably not.

[sixfour]

Thanks for clearing up the routing issue! I'll get it sorted I'm sure but it's great to have your help.

Yes, your colour frame really 'pops'. I think it looks wonderful.

They only had white left when I ordered mine a couple of days ago but that also looks good in a 'clean' kinda way.

I must say I'm getting tremendously excited about getting this bike built up!

[rlanger]

I used FSA inserts on my 386evo BB initially and it worked without any problems.

I have since upgraded to a Kogel BB and to be quite honest, never really noticed much of a performance difference. But the weight savings are always welcome.

[1415chris]

Wheelsmfg have insert for 386 and 24mm. I am not sure about the quality of the Enduro bearings, but the insert itself, aluminium threaded together, is highly recommended. The bearings are replaceable anyway. You may even find that your bb shell is made to some decent standards and it won't be that demanding on the bearings at all.

I have to admit that I was scratching my head couple of times, these frames are very nice and this price.... I just don't have enough space

[saldegracia]

Thanks for clearing up the routing issue! I'll get it sorted I'm sure but it's great to have your help.

Yes, your colour frame really 'pops'. I think it looks wonderful.

They only had white left when I ordered mine a couple of days ago but that also looks good in a 'clean' kinda way.

I must say I'm getting tremendously excited about getting this bike built up!

My friend has the Protos in white and if you get close enough you see it actually has these sparkly bits in the white, looks pretty cool, wonder if it's the same on yours. He's also got the SK but in black...loved both of them.

[sixfour]

I used FSA inserts on my 386evo BB initially and it worked without any problems.

I have since upgraded to a Kogel BB and to be quite honest, never really noticed much of a performance difference. But the weight savings are always welcome.

Thanks for your help. It is good to know that the FSA solution worked for you initially. I've heard that these can generate noise (creaks etc) but I'm not sure if that's really true. The creaks could be down to another part of the BB...

[sixfour]

Wheelsmfg have insert for 386 and 24mm. I am not sure about the quality of the Enduro bearings, but the insert itself, aluminium threaded together, is highly recommended. The bearings are replaceable anyway. You may even find that your bb shell is made to some decent standards and it won't be that demanding on the bearings at all.

I have to admit that I was scratching my head couple of times, thes frames are very nice and this price.... I just don't have enough space

Thanks for your input - that's another option I'll add to my list.

Yes, it is a very tempting price. They've still got a few left in the larger sizes...

[sixfour]

Thanks for clearing up the routing issue! I'll get it sorted I'm sure but it's great to have your help.

Yes, your colour frame really 'pops'. I think it looks wonderful.

They only had white left when I ordered mine a couple of days ago but that also looks good in a 'clean' kinda way.

I must say I'm getting tremendously excited about getting this bike built up!

My friend has the Protos in white and if you get close enough you see it actually has these sparkly bits in the white, looks pretty cool, wonder if it's the same on yours. He's also got the SK but in black...loved both of them.

Wow, let's hope so! I'm always up for a bit of glitter! I've been told those sparkly bits make bikes considerably faster despite the extra weight gain.

[sixfour]

I got a couple of emails from Nicholas De Rosa today about my questions. Must say it is nice to hear from a family member at De Rosa.

Firstly, for the bottom bracket, he says just go with the FSA insert solution.

Hello,
thanks for your email, for this SK you need to use Bottom bracket FSA PF30 code 200-32120 plus EVO 24reducer code 200-320
if you need we sell this.

Secondly, I was trying to ascertain whether the internal mechanical gear cables need to be incased in either a liner or full outer casings. His response is that they don't need any casing at all.

Only bare cable is ok

Thanks

That's a surpise. I sent him images of other owner's installs with liners but he says (rather briefly) no need.

I am 100 percent sure that Nicholas De Rosa knows much more about this than I do but I'm probably going to go down the liner route since it seems to have worked for others on here. The thought of unseen wire ripping through carbon would haunt me with every gear shift!

I'm going to order some liner in but make a final decision when the frame arrives and I can see what I'm doing. As for the bottom bracket I may also go with a integrated solution like the Rotor, C-Bear or Kobel...

Thanks to everyone for their help and support with this post.

[sixfour]

OK - quick update. Nick De Rosa has since emailed me to recommend using a Teflon coated cable liner throughout although he maintains that bare cables should still be OK.

[Visqu]

OK - quick update. Nick De Rosa has since emailed me to recommend using a Teflon coated cable liner throughout although he maintains that bare cables should still be OK.

Good of him to recommend liners
In the attached photo, I've stuck a length of liner and drawn a circle in the place where the cables enter.
Good luck without liners..

[sixfour]

OK - quick update. Nick De Rosa has since emailed me to recommend using a Teflon coated cable liner throughout although he maintains that bare cables should still be OK.

Good of him to recommend liners
In the attached photo, I've stuck a length of liner and drawn a circle in the place where the cables enter.
Good luck without liners..

Thanks Visqu,
I'm definately going with liners. Too many curves and bends in that frame to risk bare wire on carbon as far as I am concerned (not that I'm an expert). One day, I may upgrade to Di2.
That colour frame does look good.