Be Aware: Quarq dub cranks downgraded but the same price

[flyordie]

Hey. So I installed it (old spider + DUB Axs cranks) and it doesn't work. Spider to crank interface is no Problem but the chainline on the "old" Dzero is about 4mm (!) further ourward compared to a AXS spider.

huh? that's weird. My friend switch from old Alloy Quarq arms to DUB arms and he doesn't even need to readjust the FD. If it is off by 4mm, he surely have to adjust the FD to make it work.

Did you switch to official Sram DUB bb, and use 3mm spacer on the drive side as indicated in the instruction?

Yeah same config. SRAM BB and the 3mm spacer on the drive side. Agree, your friend's should've been way off. Weird..

[Hexsense]

Interesting article about DUB crank locking bolt. Anyone having issue so far?
https://cyclingtips.com/2021/02/sram-al ... stuck-fix/

[Attermann]

no, just put some grease on it.

[gSporco]

no, just put some grease on it.

And dont torque to 54nm, thats a bit much. I am at 40nm with no issues

[AnkitS]

Yea it's a real issue, massive pain in the ass to remove it if it's been dry fitted from the factory. I had to get some of my bigger co-workers to help loosen it for me on floor bikes when I was working at my LBS.

[VTR1000SP2]

I think these guys in BC, Canada have 1 165mm and 1 170mm D1 left.

https://enroute.cc/products/quarq-dub-c ... 0720835741

[ryanw]

Just had some 170mm V2's land.

V2 170mm: 469g
V1 170mm: 341g

+128g how disappointing!

[TobinHatesYou]

And uglier too. Probably incredibly stiff though!

[ryanw]

Just bought the last pair of 172.5 V/D1's from my local supplier. Panic over.

[Kumppa]

Any info where to find 170 mm D1 dub from EU?

[Feehliks]

Great infos.

So, a Red AXS DUB crank with 8 bolt interface works with the Quarq DZERO DUB powermeter, correct? (because I want to use 11sp 110/5 chainrings, I have a leftover AXS crank that I will use with a Red 11sp chain and cassette).

Or does it always have to be a Quarq crank?

[ryanw]

Red arms work with Quarq spider (4 or 5 bolt).

[Noro]

I have exactly the same problem.

My configuration is:

Frame: Aethos expert
BB: Ceramicspeed DUB 68 road
Ring: Ultegra R8000 52/36T
Crankarms: Sram red 165 mm DUB
Powermeter: QuarqDfour

So what I did was: BB directly into the frame without spacers or dust covers as Ceramicspeed states these are all integrated. Then, 1mm spacer in the NDS next to the preload ring and 7mm spacers in the DS (with the 3mm as stated by Ceramicspeed https://www.ceramicspeed.com/media/5205 ... 020-10.pdf the inner ring will be awkwardly close to the frame and that could ruin all the frame and ring). However with 4,5,6 or 7 mm I can indeed tight everything (also the preload into the frame and then the preload itself with 2 mm Allen key) and there is still some play after a hard pedal.

Everything is tight at first, no play. One hard spin to the pedals and something get loose and there is play but not side to side, move diagonally forward and backwards like if the bb is bigger than the DUB spindle.

I've taken this to a proper mechanic (if anyone knows a good mechanic for high-end bikes in Berlin I will be very grateful) so I am hoping these can solve the issue.

If not I will try with a cane creek aluminium preload ring but I've seen a video where Loctite glue will be needed to keep the preload in place next to the crank arm.

Anyone with the same issue?

Here some pics:





Many thanks!

[Visqu]

I have exactly the same problem.

My configuration is:

Frame: Aethos expert
BB: Ceramicspeed DUB 68 road
Ring: Ultegra R8000 52/36T
Crankarms: Sram red 165 mm DUB
Powermeter: QuarqDfour

So what I did was: BB directly into the frame without spacers or dust covers as Ceramicspeed states these are all integrated. Then, 1mm spacer in the NDS next to the preload ring and 7mm spacers in the DS (with the 3mm as stated by Ceramicspeed https://www.ceramicspeed.com/media/5205 ... 020-10.pdf the inner ring will be awkwardly close to the frame and that could ruin all the frame and ring). However with 4,5,6 or 7 mm I can indeed tight everything (also the preload into the frame and then the preload itself with 2 mm Allen key) and there is still some play after a hard pedal.

Everything is tight at first, no play. One hard spin to the pedals and something get loose and there is play but not side to side, move diagonally forward and backwards like if the bb is bigger than the DUB spindle.

I've taken this to a proper mechanic (if anyone knows a good mechanic for high-end bikes in Berlin I will be very grateful) so I am hoping these can solve the issue.

If not I will try with a cane creek aluminium preload ring but I've seen a video where Loctite glue will be needed to keep the preload in place next to the crank arm.

Anyone with the same issue?

Here some pics:





Many thanks!

Did you install the dust covers that Ceramic Speed states are provided with the product, or were these preinstalled on the bearings?
https://www.ceramicspeed.com/en/cycling ... -dub-road/

From the pics, it would seem that they are not in place as the preload ring is somehow very deep inside the cup.

[Noro]

Thank you,

Yes. Eventually, I've placed the dustcover next to the preload ring. And this caused the cranks to bring the inner ring inwards therefore I've placed more spacers in the DS to compensate.

I am hoping the mechanic can solve it, but I am still worried as he told "we don't see this kind of bikes that often" - lol