Yeah same config. SRAM BB and the 3mm spacer on the drive side. Agree, your friend's should've been way off. Weird..Hexsense wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 8:53 amhuh? that's weird. My friend switch from old Alloy Quarq arms to DUB arms and he doesn't even need to readjust the FD. If it is off by 4mm, he surely have to adjust the FD to make it work.
Did you switch to official Sram DUB bb, and use 3mm spacer on the drive side as indicated in the instruction?
Be Aware: Quarq dub cranks downgraded but the same price
Moderator: robbosmans
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Interesting article about DUB crank locking bolt. Anyone having issue so far?
https://cyclingtips.com/2021/02/sram-al ... stuck-fix/
https://cyclingtips.com/2021/02/sram-al ... stuck-fix/
And dont torque to 54nm, thats a bit much. I am at 40nm with no issues
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I think these guys in BC, Canada have 1 165mm and 1 170mm D1 left.
https://enroute.cc/products/quarq-dub-c ... 0720835741
https://enroute.cc/products/quarq-dub-c ... 0720835741
Focus Izalco Max - 4.84kg without pedals
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg
Cervélo Áspero - 8.28kg
Trek Madone SLR Rim - 7.73kg
Standert Triebwerk Disc - 8.47kg
Just had some 170mm V2's land.
V2 170mm: 469g
V1 170mm: 341g
+128g how disappointing!
V2 170mm: 469g
V1 170mm: 341g
+128g how disappointing!
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop
IG: RhinosWorkshop
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And uglier too. Probably incredibly stiff though!
Just bought the last pair of 172.5 V/D1's from my local supplier. Panic over.
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
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Great infos.
So, a Red AXS DUB crank with 8 bolt interface works with the Quarq DZERO DUB powermeter, correct? (because I want to use 11sp 110/5 chainrings, I have a leftover AXS crank that I will use with a Red 11sp chain and cassette).
Or does it always have to be a Quarq crank?
So, a Red AXS DUB crank with 8 bolt interface works with the Quarq DZERO DUB powermeter, correct? (because I want to use 11sp 110/5 chainrings, I have a leftover AXS crank that I will use with a Red 11sp chain and cassette).
Or does it always have to be a Quarq crank?
- 2019 Specialized Tarmac SW SL6 Red AXS Zipp 303
2019 Cervelo P3 II Red AXS 1x Zipp 808
2017 Cannondale Slate Force CX1 stock
2012 Specialized Tarmac SL2
2011 Cervelo P3 - under conversion to single speed/fixie
2009 Cannondale CAAD9 Ultegra
Red arms work with Quarq spider (4 or 5 bolt).
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
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I have exactly the same problem.
My configuration is:
Frame: Aethos expert
BB: Ceramicspeed DUB 68 road
Ring: Ultegra R8000 52/36T
Crankarms: Sram red 165 mm DUB
Powermeter: QuarqDfour
So what I did was: BB directly into the frame without spacers or dust covers as Ceramicspeed states these are all integrated. Then, 1mm spacer in the NDS next to the preload ring and 7mm spacers in the DS (with the 3mm as stated by Ceramicspeed https://www.ceramicspeed.com/media/5205 ... 020-10.pdf the inner ring will be awkwardly close to the frame and that could ruin all the frame and ring). However with 4,5,6 or 7 mm I can indeed tight everything (also the preload into the frame and then the preload itself with 2 mm Allen key) and there is still some play after a hard pedal.
Everything is tight at first, no play. One hard spin to the pedals and something get loose and there is play but not side to side, move diagonally forward and backwards like if the bb is bigger than the DUB spindle.
I've taken this to a proper mechanic (if anyone knows a good mechanic for high-end bikes in Berlin I will be very grateful) so I am hoping these can solve the issue.
If not I will try with a cane creek aluminium preload ring but I've seen a video where Loctite glue will be needed to keep the preload in place next to the crank arm.
Anyone with the same issue?
Here some pics:
Many thanks!
My configuration is:
Frame: Aethos expert
BB: Ceramicspeed DUB 68 road
Ring: Ultegra R8000 52/36T
Crankarms: Sram red 165 mm DUB
Powermeter: QuarqDfour
So what I did was: BB directly into the frame without spacers or dust covers as Ceramicspeed states these are all integrated. Then, 1mm spacer in the NDS next to the preload ring and 7mm spacers in the DS (with the 3mm as stated by Ceramicspeed https://www.ceramicspeed.com/media/5205 ... 020-10.pdf the inner ring will be awkwardly close to the frame and that could ruin all the frame and ring). However with 4,5,6 or 7 mm I can indeed tight everything (also the preload into the frame and then the preload itself with 2 mm Allen key) and there is still some play after a hard pedal.
Everything is tight at first, no play. One hard spin to the pedals and something get loose and there is play but not side to side, move diagonally forward and backwards like if the bb is bigger than the DUB spindle.
I've taken this to a proper mechanic (if anyone knows a good mechanic for high-end bikes in Berlin I will be very grateful) so I am hoping these can solve the issue.
If not I will try with a cane creek aluminium preload ring but I've seen a video where Loctite glue will be needed to keep the preload in place next to the crank arm.
Anyone with the same issue?
Here some pics:
Many thanks!
Did you install the dust covers that Ceramic Speed states are provided with the product, or were these preinstalled on the bearings?Noro wrote: ↑Sun Mar 14, 2021 2:43 pmI have exactly the same problem.
My configuration is:
Frame: Aethos expert
BB: Ceramicspeed DUB 68 road
Ring: Ultegra R8000 52/36T
Crankarms: Sram red 165 mm DUB
Powermeter: QuarqDfour
So what I did was: BB directly into the frame without spacers or dust covers as Ceramicspeed states these are all integrated. Then, 1mm spacer in the NDS next to the preload ring and 7mm spacers in the DS (with the 3mm as stated by Ceramicspeed https://www.ceramicspeed.com/media/5205 ... 020-10.pdf the inner ring will be awkwardly close to the frame and that could ruin all the frame and ring). However with 4,5,6 or 7 mm I can indeed tight everything (also the preload into the frame and then the preload itself with 2 mm Allen key) and there is still some play after a hard pedal.
Everything is tight at first, no play. One hard spin to the pedals and something get loose and there is play but not side to side, move diagonally forward and backwards like if the bb is bigger than the DUB spindle.
I've taken this to a proper mechanic (if anyone knows a good mechanic for high-end bikes in Berlin I will be very grateful) so I am hoping these can solve the issue.
If not I will try with a cane creek aluminium preload ring but I've seen a video where Loctite glue will be needed to keep the preload in place next to the crank arm.
Anyone with the same issue?
Here some pics:
Many thanks!
https://www.ceramicspeed.com/en/cycling ... -dub-road/
From the pics, it would seem that they are not in place as the preload ring is somehow very deep inside the cup.
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Thank you,
Yes. Eventually, I've placed the dustcover next to the preload ring. And this caused the cranks to bring the inner ring inwards therefore I've placed more spacers in the DS to compensate.
I am hoping the mechanic can solve it, but I am still worried as he told "we don't see this kind of bikes that often" - lol
Yes. Eventually, I've placed the dustcover next to the preload ring. And this caused the cranks to bring the inner ring inwards therefore I've placed more spacers in the DS to compensate.
I am hoping the mechanic can solve it, but I am still worried as he told "we don't see this kind of bikes that often" - lol