SRAM AXS Front Derailleur Setup issues.....
Moderator: robbosmans
I feel for you. I honestly think your issue isn't being experienced by vast majority of AXS owners. If the FD was working fine on a different frame (same model but different size) I would guess the issue isn't the FD but the frame itself. There are other possibilities such as a bent chainring or a damaged chain. Before blaming the FD you should rule out other causes. If a new chainring and chain won't solve the issue then it's highly likely the frame is the culprit.
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I dont know how to rule those items out but thisnis what i can say:pdlpsher1 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 05, 2020 8:50 pmI feel for you. I honestly think your issue isn't being experienced by vast majority of AXS owners. If the FD was working fine on a different frame (same model but different size) I would guess the issue isn't the FD but the frame itself. There are other possibilities such as a bent chainring or a damaged chain. Before blaming the FD you should rule out other causes. If a new chainring and chain won't solve the issue then it's highly likely the frame is the culprit.
If the frame was the culprit then I would not be able to align the FD per spec which I could
The chainring as measure against the clearance of the chainstay as a fixed point proved the CRs are true and not warped
The chain, visual inspection plus in hand going through each link shows no wear, each link bends freely and is well lubricated. The chain had 100 miles on it prior to installing
Now the chainring ramps, who knows.. I can tell you the chain danced on the ramps a lot before getting enough bite to climb from little to big ring.
I tried 1mm then 2mm then 2.5mm which puts the small tooth in between the hash mark. All gave the same results.
Same for me. I tried hours and hours of making tiny adjustments to height and angle to no avail ( and remember none of these should have been needed anyway if using the FD set up tool).
If SRAM have produced an FD which is so ridiculously sensitive to adjustment down to fractions of a millimeter, or to micro variations in frame geom or the position of the FD mount, which could just be down to manufacturing tolerances (is carbon frame moulding accurate to tenths of a millimeter?), then it is not fit for purpose. Even if you can get it working well when new, what happens a few thousand miles down the line when the chain, chainrings, derailleur plates and pivots all wear slightly. Doesn't bode well does it? Shimano can produce an electronic FD which is straightforward to set up and is proven to work consistently across thousands of different frames - why can't SRAM?
I found the force RD simple to set up, once I noticed that there are two alignment marks to position parallel to the big ring. I've set up three different cranks recently and all work great. None of those were sram cranks. I set up two Campy chorus 48/32 cranks and one shimano grx 46/30 crank.
Everyone wants to blame the FD when the real problem may be the cranks.
Everyone wants to blame the FD when the real problem may be the cranks.
I've seen what seems to be dozens of dozens of people (primarily on FB) mentioning FD SRAM AXS front derailleur chain dropping issues. It seems that the majority of the issues are on Force.
I've ridden two different RED equipped bikes over the last two years, thousands of miles and never, and I mean never, a dropped chain. Not even a close-to-drop.
I wish I could understand what's going on, the basic Force/Red FDs look to be basically identical.
Origionally I was convinced that the issues must be setup related. Last year, upon seeing the many complaints I closely checked the written setup instructions and compared to my own setup. My own derailleur height was slightly off, and no wedge was installed. I added a wedge and tweaked things a bit, but, I did not have issues prior or after. The setup is maybe slightly tricky, but it's definitely easy once you read through and understand it.
I am now beginning to think that there could be some manufacturing issue going on...I wish I had Force and RED equipped bikes to make a comparisson.
I'm referring to the actual clearance between the chain ring teeth and the cage, not the reference window. Set the cage as low as possible without actually touching the tallest teeth when the shift is made.
Bit puzzled. How can it be the cranks? In my case I bought the entire Force ASX groupset new, so the chainset, chain and the DUB BB should have been perfectly matched to the FD. The only scope for incompatibilty is the frame, but it is a Focus bike. Focus are a very reputable manufacturer, and they even used to supply a bike with the same frame as mine with 11 speed Red Etap.DaveS wrote: ↑Tue Oct 06, 2020 1:18 pmI found the force RD simple to set up, once I noticed that there are two alignment marks to position parallel to the big ring. I've set up three different cranks recently and all work great. None of those were sram cranks. I set up two Campy chorus 48/32 cranks and one shimano grx 46/30 crank.
Everyone wants to blame the FD when the real problem may be the cranks.
I am really starting to wonder if there may be a manufacturing issue and a bunch of faulty FDs have been delivered. I can't believe they are all like this though - the Force ASX group is shipping with loads of 2021 bikes from all the big manufacturers - Specialized, Trek, Cannondale etc. We would surely have heard more about it if they all were similarly affected. Whatever the cause, my faith in SRAM products is well and truly shot.
Every brand of crank has different ramps and pins to assist the shifting. Some may work better than others. I avoided sram cranks because they all have a range reducing 13T difference at the crank. My three cranks with a 16T difference all work just fine.
When I put the grx crank on, that has 2.5mm wider chain line, I didn't even adjust the low limit screw. I've since shimmed the rings to reduce the chain line by 1.5mm and plan to do more with some different washers and longer chain ring bolts.
One of the most common problems is the cage becoming misaligned during the final tightening of the clamp bolt. Mine both want to swing the tail end of the cage out, closer to the crank arm.
When I put the grx crank on, that has 2.5mm wider chain line, I didn't even adjust the low limit screw. I've since shimmed the rings to reduce the chain line by 1.5mm and plan to do more with some different washers and longer chain ring bolts.
One of the most common problems is the cage becoming misaligned during the final tightening of the clamp bolt. Mine both want to swing the tail end of the cage out, closer to the crank arm.
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Have you seen or used this tool from SRAM to help with setup.
Yes, its hard to find and some people said that Sram recalled using the tool already as it didnt really work as intended..dbordewisch wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:32 pmHave you seen or used this tool from SRAM to help with setup.
I have since fixed my Front Derailleur shifting issues though so all is good now..
What I did:
1. Remove chain
2. Unscrew Front Derailleur
3. remove cranks
4. remove 48/35 Chainrings
5. pick up front derailleur and throw it in the trash
6. pick up 2x chainrings and throw it in the trash
5. mount 44t chainring
7. install crank
8. resize chain
9. index in the the rear derailleur in the stand
10.... Went out and road happy and anxiety free from chain drop worry!!!!!
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I've used it. Great idea - makes it impossible to get the height and alignment of the FD wrong. Just one problem - it doesn't work. Still threw the chain off.dbordewisch wrote: ↑Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:32 pmHave you seen or used this tool from SRAM to help with setup.
The fact that SRAM started supplying this tool when it wasn't available with the Force AXS groupset from the start, then apparently withdrew it, does suggest to me they know there is a problem.