New bike: Red AXS or Dura ace di2?

[L3X]

I ride AXS on my MTB, took a while to set it up perfectly - for sure its less forgiving when not setting up correctly.

On the road I rode the Ultegra 10 speed DI2, Ultegra 11 speed DI2, and now DA DI2 and put the Ultegra DI2 on my dad's bike. The only issue we had between the two of us is one broken battery which would drain in no time. Its easy to setup, I never have to adjust anything, and overall it just works. Given how many people report issues with AXS on road, I would go DI2 in a heartbeat.

[DaveS]

The frame should have nothing to do with the FD problem unless the manufacturer failed to follow published standards for placement of the mounting bracket.

[Maddie]

As if that never happened. Manufacturers don't even adhere to their own tolerances like PF BBs, bearing seats in headtubes etc. That does happen with FD mounts as well

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[tomato]

But percentage wise the lucky ones are in the minority.

I'm literally 150,000% certain this is false.

Sorry, but you lose your credibility about percentages when you claim to be 150,000% certain.

[DaveS]

As if that never happened. Manufacturers don't even adhere to their own tolerances like PF BBs, bearing seats in headtubes etc. That does happen with FD mounts as well

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If that's the case, then the frame should be returned for one that's made correctly. I've installed a Force AXS FD on four different frames with no problems. If a FD mount is off by very much, it will affect the limit screw range. I deliberately used a GRX crank with a +2.5mm chain line. It came within 1/2 turn of the limit for the big ring screw to clear the chain, but it still worked fine.

[AMGRoadster]

So I am far from an expert but here are my experiences and what has been relayed to me by friends I trust.
Shifting on RED AXS is annoyingly slow. It spends too much time "thinking" and not enough time taking action
It takes about 8 seconds (at most) to get used to SRAM shifting and wonder why it took so long for someone to figure out how to do shifting right
Shimano Cranks look like ASS and SUCK. There are no redeeming qualities about them. They have way too high of a failure rate. Plus it is the 21st century. How is aluminum still a thing for bikes?
Shimano continues to support their products well past the release of the next generation or 2.
Campagnolo. They understand sexy and design. You can't beat the looks.
Campy is way ahead of Shimano in terms of looks and durability
Campy is significantly more expensive than other options
It is no loner a case of campy wearing in when shimano wears out. Campy way too quickly discontinues support of their products

[Feehliks]

Reinstall the FD exactly to the procedure in the manual. If you just tamper with one screw you might not solve this. It does not have anything to do with the chainrings.

Done. 6 times. 3 times by myself. 3 times by three different bike shop mechanics.
Following the instructions to the letter.

No success. Now what?

You were lucky. And so where many others.
But percentage wis,e the lucky ones are in the minority.

Says who? And what "letter" do you mean? On sram.com in the support aera there is a detailed step-by-step manual.

ALL the letters.
I had the groupset of a 18 MONTHS. Trust me. Every manual, support doc. Video. Rumor. Wisper. E-VE-RY-THING.

It is NOT for the lack of trying that I chucked my $3000 groupset in the bin.............

Why should I trust you? Haha I am into my second Red AXS and have been using that group a while. I don't pay attention to rumors and whispers in that regard, I rely on my experience.

[Roadbiker10]

It appears few people seem to mind the big hoods of the AXS shifters... For me that's the biggest reason of not going to AXS.

Just got an Axs Etap bike and I love the hoods as I have big hands.

[Roadbiker10]

Nice post, but not reflective. My Red AXS PM Chainrings has now 18000 km and the first Chain was changed after 12000 km. I think the rings are going to work another 18000 km.

Are you saying you rode your SRAM chain for 12000 km? That's a factor 2-3 above anything else I have heard about chains lasting. How did you measure elongation? Also considering the amount of riding you do (based on how old AXS is) , if your rings last 36000km that's a new powermeter every ~2-2.5 years that's still expensive.

I'm considering the quarq power meter for my Force cranks. Do you mean that I would have to change the PM when changing to new chainrings? Why is that? Can't you just transfer it to the new chainrings? Or does that only concern Red cranks?

[gSporco]

Nice post, but not reflective. My Red AXS PM Chainrings has now 18000 km and the first Chain was changed after 12000 km. I think the rings are going to work another 18000 km.

Are you saying you rode your SRAM chain for 12000 km? That's a factor 2-3 above anything else I have heard about chains lasting. How did you measure elongation? Also considering the amount of riding you do (based on how old AXS is) , if your rings last 36000km that's a new powermeter every ~2-2.5 years that's still expensive.

I'm considering the quarq power meter for my Force cranks. Do you mean that I would have to change the PM when changing to new chainrings? Why is that? Can't you just transfer it to the new chainrings? Or does that only concern Red cranks?

There's are 3 PM options from Sram now:
1. Red AXS Rings and PM (integrated, one piece, if rings wearout or PM goes bad you need a whole new unit)

2. Quarq PM Spider with Force AXS rings (2 pieces, replace whatever wears out first)

3. Rival AXS PM non drive side crank arm (replaces you non drive arm with an integrated PM, works with all AXS cranks, but obviously a heavier option if you are using Rival arm on Force or Red)

That all being said, I have found the Quarq stuff to be spot on and durable.. next best thing is Assioma, which I also have in a SPD Gravel pedal conversion..

[vinny]

i just changed my forcw axs chain at 7,000 miles (11000 km). i checked with a pedro chain tool, and i lube the chain with squirt.

i replaced the force chain with a red chain, cuz i could get the red one.

i don't think you want the rival chain because its not hard chromed and will not last as long as the force or red.

[Roadbiker10]

Nice post, but not reflective. My Red AXS PM Chainrings has now 18000 km and the first Chain was changed after 12000 km. I think the rings are going to work another 18000 km.

Are you saying you rode your SRAM chain for 12000 km? That's a factor 2-3 above anything else I have heard about chains lasting. How did you measure elongation? Also considering the amount of riding you do (based on how old AXS is) , if your rings last 36000km that's a new powermeter every ~2-2.5 years that's still expensive.

I'm considering the quarq power meter for my Force cranks. Do you mean that I would have to change the PM when changing to new chainrings? Why is that? Can't you just transfer it to the new chainrings? Or does that only concern Red cranks?

There's are 3 PM options from Sram now:
1. Red AXS Rings and PM (integrated, one piece, if rings wearout or PM goes bad you need a whole new unit)

2. Quarq PM Spider with Force AXS rings (2 pieces, replace whatever wears out first)

3. Rival AXS PM non drive side crank arm (replaces you non drive arm with an integrated PM, works with all AXS cranks, but obviously a heavier option if you are using Rival arm on Force or Red)

That all being said, I have found the Quarq stuff to be spot on and durable.. next best thing is Assioma, which I also have in a SPD Gravel pedal conversion..

Thanks, so I won't have a problem with that then. I was considering buying a slightly used Red PM crankset instead of getting the Force Quarq PM for my Force cranks but now that I know you have to change the chainrings together with a pm, that's a no go. Especially when I'm not the first owner and can't get it for half price through Sram when it wears out.

I was also considering the new Speedplay powrlink, but who knows when they'll come out and will probably be 3 times as expensive.

[gSporco]

.

I was also considering the new Speedplay powrlink, but who knows when they'll come out and will probably be 3 times as expensive.

Lots of Pros and cons to all the options as with ever brand in cycling.. not sure if you are multi disapline rider (road, gravel and MTB). But PM pedals seem to offer the best flexibility for me anyway..

Assioma is by far the most accurate of all PM pedals and allows you to use The look cleat system for road and the Xpedo SPD system for gravel and MTB if you buy the extra XPEDO donor pedals.. now its not the quickest thing to swap over if you are doing all the time in the same week, but moving a pedal from bike to bike is easy enough..

Quarq is great and accurate, the PM spider is constrained by the 107bcd standard, but plenty of manufacturers are making aftermarket rings now..

The wahoo PM pedals is a tough one, I am a huge fannof speedplay cleat system, but... who knows how good the PM will be in the beginning.. rumors say the delay in releasing is due to accuracy issues the testers are having.. lots of whaoo PM pedals out there being tested in plain site (GPlama, DC rainmaker, GCN and the pros). I guess when the bugs are worked out they will be released, then a boat load of firmware updates as the masses act as beta testers.. Im not poo pooping them, this is the natuway of system development, they cant factor everything in... but they can fix them as problems arise with software.. lastly I dont think they will be cheap.. Assioma is $450 USD for single sided, Garmin Rally is a few hundred more and I suspect the Wahoo PM to be the most expensive of all of them... but we will see

[Roadbiker10]

I would have loved the Faveros but I have Speedplay Zeros on both bikes(road bikes), and they have worked best for my knees. So I'm staying with Speedplay. But I think it's best to just get the Quarq for Force which is only 400 euros and a great PM. I actually could have gotten a great deal on Faveros from a friend for only 350 euros, not used much. But I just don't dare to move on from Speedplays.

I only ride road but am planing to sell my dedicated trainer road bike and get a gravel with road gearing, so I can use it both for the trainer and get a second wheelset for gravel. I'm considering the Trek Emonda Al disc. But it's not that important for me to have power on a gravel bike though.

Yeah I am also worried about how good the Zero powrlinks will be at the start. Maybe in the future.

[G104xG320]

Why spend money on something that is much heavier plus very low reliability?