Tubolito road tubes - worthwhile or not?
Moderator: robbosmans
I didn't have much luck with Tubolito's and eventually swapped them out for latex which have so far (2000 km) been reliable.
I found the puncture repair patches unreliable on the Tubolitos, you would fix, test and then reinstall. They would be fine for a few rides and then the patches would randomly fail. Yes I followed the instructions correctly.
I wanted to use my repaired Tubolitos as spares but the patches are too unreliable to count on for me.
I found the puncture repair patches unreliable on the Tubolitos, you would fix, test and then reinstall. They would be fine for a few rides and then the patches would randomly fail. Yes I followed the instructions correctly.
I wanted to use my repaired Tubolitos as spares but the patches are too unreliable to count on for me.
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I have been running Tubolitos, the standard version, for 4500+ km with no issues, and not a single puncture. 25 mm Hutchinson Performance Fusion5's, pressure range 85-90 psi, on Campy Bora One 35 DB. Used Vittoria latex before that with Conti 4Ks, and would have the occasional punctures with that setup. Prefer the Tubolitos due to the easy setup and better air retention, but never having had to use the patches, so I have no experience in that regard.
I have since gone tubeless, Bora WTO 45's/Conti 5TL's, milkit valves and sealant, and now carry the Tubolitos as emergency spares should the tubeless setup fail. In that regard they are super compact and light, helping to keep the size and weight of the kit low.
I have since gone tubeless, Bora WTO 45's/Conti 5TL's, milkit valves and sealant, and now carry the Tubolitos as emergency spares should the tubeless setup fail. In that regard they are super compact and light, helping to keep the size and weight of the kit low.
Never tried the S-Tubo, but at 22g it's a pretty decent weigh saving, even coming from my Michelin Ultralight Butyl, it's a 110g saving on the bike. Many of us would spend hundreds on a saddle or a wheel hub, to save half of that...
Regarding my experience with the regular Tubolito (the 40-ish grams ones), it was ok, I had several punctures due to road debrits that I believe would have happened with any othe tube. Couldn't source them anymore at the moment so I went back to Michelin butyls, and now I have a pair of Tubolitos as a spare in my emergency kit.
Considering testing the S-Tubo on my next wheelset, if they are reliable it's a no brainer to me: way lighter (saving 100g on a pair...) than Vittoria Latex tube, less than 1W RR difference and still better than any Butyl, no presure loss.
In any case, if they don't stay on my wheels after the test, they'll definitely stay in my emergency kit
Regarding my experience with the regular Tubolito (the 40-ish grams ones), it was ok, I had several punctures due to road debrits that I believe would have happened with any othe tube. Couldn't source them anymore at the moment so I went back to Michelin butyls, and now I have a pair of Tubolitos as a spare in my emergency kit.
Considering testing the S-Tubo on my next wheelset, if they are reliable it's a no brainer to me: way lighter (saving 100g on a pair...) than Vittoria Latex tube, less than 1W RR difference and still better than any Butyl, no presure loss.
In any case, if they don't stay on my wheels after the test, they'll definitely stay in my emergency kit
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I’m also using Tubolito S-Tubos on both of my bikes and they have basically been flawless for over six months now on both bikes. The only problem I had with two of them was, that they lost air over the valve. At first I thought that the valve core was loose and tightened it, but this made it only worse. It seems that the metal valve core damaged the plastic valve stem when I tightened it.
Anyone else with this problem and a solution how to prevent air leakage over the valve or the connection between valve stem and core in the first place?
Anyone else with this problem and a solution how to prevent air leakage over the valve or the connection between valve stem and core in the first place?
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One very important thing to know about regarding the Tubolit tubes, is the fact that according to my first hand experience, the patches that Tubolito offer are destined to fail when put into use...in a week, in a month or two, they WILL FAIL, and that is unacceptable to me. I know, because I've used Tubolito's original Flix Kit (clear) as well as the more recent offering (red) on no less than six punctures, and THEY ALL FAILED. The red ones last a substantially longer than the original ones, but fail they did. As a backup tube for the saddlebag/jersey - or for race day - they are an awesome choice. But as an everyday driver, unless you're okay with tossing them when they puncture, FORGET IT!
I see only complains on flix kit.
Is there someone who was successful with fixing tubolito tubes? Either using flix kit, or using something else, like loctite or whatever glue?
Another question. I only have one tubolito, the s-tubo 22g on front.
Does it makes sense to use 39g normal tubolito on rear? Or should i get s-tubo too?
Is there someone who was successful with fixing tubolito tubes? Either using flix kit, or using something else, like loctite or whatever glue?
Another question. I only have one tubolito, the s-tubo 22g on front.
Does it makes sense to use 39g normal tubolito on rear? Or should i get s-tubo too?
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I fixed my S-Tubo with the fix kit. Cleaned the surface with the bundled alcohol pads, made sure it's flat , stick the patch and press it for 5mins.req110 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 29, 2020 9:58 amI see only complains on flix kit.
Is there someone who was successful with fixing tubolito tubes? Either using flix kit, or using something else, like loctite or whatever glue?
Another question. I only have one tubolito, the s-tubo 22g on front.
Does it makes sense to use 39g normal tubolito on rear? Or should i get s-tubo too?
REVIVAL: 100!
btw I use S-Tubo on both front and rear wheels and finished festive500 no issue.
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I posted on another thread that super gluing the patches works if the flix kit fails, I used 'Loctite Super Glue Power flex' apartenlty it is a rubber infused formula.req110 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 29, 2020 9:58 amI see only complains on flix kit.
Is there someone who was successful with fixing tubolito tubes? Either using flix kit, or using something else, like loctite or whatever glue?
Another question. I only have one tubolito, the s-tubo 22g on front.
Does it makes sense to use 39g normal tubolito on rear? Or should i get s-tubo too?
I didn't remove the failed patch completely (they tend to blow out on one side) I just peeled back the failed point and super glued it down. Been riding it for 3 months now without any problems.
Neillp: thank you, so Loctite Super Glue Power flex
jlok: not sure if revival 100 means that you fixed the issue and it stays fixed just by using the flix kit?
jlok: not sure if revival 100 means that you fixed the issue and it stays fixed just by using the flix kit?
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
S Epic 8 L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p
S Epic 8 L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p
Yes, two punctures on the same s-tubo fixed by just two tubolito patches, no glue.
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I'm giving Tubolito's a go here soon. I'll update this thread with my experience.
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I've been using them for 6 months now. No punctures, so I can't comment on the quality of the repair kit, but I did lose air from one of them like you have. Easily solved by removing the valve core, wrap the thread with a couple of layers of threadseal tape, and put it back in. Problem solved, and now I've proactively done it to not only the tubolito on the other wheel, but also onto my spares. Going to be pretty much my standard practice now.floriansantana wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 8:44 amI’m also using Tubolito S-Tubos on both of my bikes and they have basically been flawless for over six months now on both bikes. The only problem I had with two of them was, that they lost air over the valve. At first I thought that the valve core was loose and tightened it, but this made it only worse. It seems that the metal valve core damaged the plastic valve stem when I tightened it.
Anyone else with this problem and a solution how to prevent air leakage over the valve or the connection between valve stem and core in the first place?
Have had one blowout because the plug replacements for the liner popped out. Other than that, no problem(even with conditions that would cause a pinch flat).Stickman wrote: ↑Fri Feb 28, 2020 1:49 amSo I'm currently using standard 100g+ butyl tubes but with a long hill sportive coming up I'm looking for any help I can get for my skinny legs as I honestly think I've bitten off more than I can chew!
Are the tubolito road tubes worth trying? 38g vs ~108g for my current butyl tubes.
Or is latex at around ~75g per tube a better option? I'll be in the saddle for 10+ hours if PSI loss is an issue.
If anyone can recommend a specific make and model of their favourite tubes I'd appreciate it. I'm using 38mm rims so need >60mm stems.
I've got disc wheels so no worries about heat buildup on rims. Tyres are GP4000 if that matters. I'm 68kg and not a crazy aggressive descender. I'm already stick-thin so losing body weight isn't a realistic option
Thanks
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'plug replacements for the liner' - can someone translate??tabl10s wrote: ↑Sat Jan 02, 2021 10:39 pmHave had one blowout because the plug replacements for the liner popped out. Other than that, no problem(even with conditions that would cause a pinch flat).Stickman wrote: ↑Fri Feb 28, 2020 1:49 amSo I'm currently using standard 100g+ butyl tubes but with a long hill sportive coming up I'm looking for any help I can get for my skinny legs as I honestly think I've bitten off more than I can chew!
Are the tubolito road tubes worth trying? 38g vs ~108g for my current butyl tubes.
Or is latex at around ~75g per tube a better option? I'll be in the saddle for 10+ hours if PSI loss is an issue.
If anyone can recommend a specific make and model of their favourite tubes I'd appreciate it. I'm using 38mm rims so need >60mm stems.
I've got disc wheels so no worries about heat buildup on rims. Tyres are GP4000 if that matters. I'm 68kg and not a crazy aggressive descender. I'm already stick-thin so losing body weight isn't a realistic option
Thanks
Wild guess - instead of rim tape he uses veloplugs?Svetty wrote: ↑Mon Jan 04, 2021 5:01 pm'plug replacements for the liner' - can someone translate??tabl10s wrote: ↑Sat Jan 02, 2021 10:39 pmHave had one blowout because the plug replacements for the liner popped out. Other than that, no problem(even with conditions that would cause a pinch flat).Stickman wrote: ↑Fri Feb 28, 2020 1:49 amSo I'm currently using standard 100g+ butyl tubes but with a long hill sportive coming up I'm looking for any help I can get for my skinny legs as I honestly think I've bitten off more than I can chew!
Are the tubolito road tubes worth trying? 38g vs ~108g for my current butyl tubes.
Or is latex at around ~75g per tube a better option? I'll be in the saddle for 10+ hours if PSI loss is an issue.
If anyone can recommend a specific make and model of their favourite tubes I'd appreciate it. I'm using 38mm rims so need >60mm stems.
I've got disc wheels so no worries about heat buildup on rims. Tyres are GP4000 if that matters. I'm 68kg and not a crazy aggressive descender. I'm already stick-thin so losing body weight isn't a realistic option
Thanks
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