What BB for Cervelo R5 disk?

[mashiehood]

Don't bother with ceramic - for 99.9% of riders they make no difference at all. I use the SRAM press fit BB as it's light and cheap. Has been creak free

[ryanw]

SRAM PF with the plastic cups is shite IMHO. I swapped mine out for a WMfG which is a notable improvement. Still no where as durable / robust and "spinny" as my C-Bears.

[jlok]

SRAM PF with the plastic cups is shite IMHO. I swapped mine out for a WMfG which is a notable improvement. Still no where as durable / robust and "spinny" as my C-Bears.

How long do the WMfG and C-Bears last?

[akaspin]

SRAM PF with the plastic cups is shite IMHO. I swapped mine out for a WMfG which is a notable improvement. Still no where as durable / robust and "spinny" as my C-Bears.

How long do the WMfG and C-Bears last?

Depends on bearings. Not so long because both WheelsMFG and C-Bear using ABEC-3 or ceramic. But crappy bearing can be replaced with normal ones from NTN or SKF. Main is cups design and tolerances.

[ryanw]

My C-Bear has done 3,700 km and I've serviced it once, and it still spins amazingly well.

The WMfG is on my commuter / CX bike and has done around 5,000km, but I service much more frequently due to being exposed to fully crap British weather on a daily basis.

For £50, the WMfG is a great buy, saying that, C-Bear are only just over £100.

I'll never use Ceramicspeed again after using C-Bear.

[akaspin]

My C-Bear has done 3,700 km and I've serviced it once, and it still spins amazingly well.

The WMfG is on my commuter / CX bike and has done around 5,000km, but I service much more frequently due to being exposed to fully crap British weather on a daily basis.

For £50, the WMfG is a great buy, saying that, C-Bear are only just over £100.

I'll never use Ceramicspeed again after using C-Bear.

Unfortunately C-Bear doesn't offer thread-together design. It's matters because press-in design drastically reduces serviceability of bottom bracket area.

[HShimada]

My C-Bear has done 3,700 km and I've serviced it once, and it still spins amazingly well.

The WMfG is on my commuter / CX bike and has done around 5,000km, but I service much more frequently due to being exposed to fully crap British weather on a daily basis.

For £50, the WMfG is a great buy, saying that, C-Bear are only just over £100.

I'll never use Ceramicspeed again after using C-Bear.

Unfortunately C-Bear doesn't offer thread-together design. It's matters because press-in design drastically reduces serviceability of bottom bracket area.

I'm not sure what you mean by "serviceability." If you have the right tool, it's as much serviceable as a threaded design. I have a bike that has a threaded BB and one that has Hambini BB (one piece no thread). The Hambini one doesn't take one bit longer to "service" (which I assume take it out, clean and put it back in?) than the other.

[jmfreeman535]

I'm not sure what you mean by "serviceability." If you have the right tool, it's as much serviceable as a threaded design. I have a bike that has a threaded BB and one that has Hambini BB (one piece no thread). The Hambini one doesn't take one bit longer to "service" (which I assume take it out, clean and put it back in?) than the other.

It's not a good idea to remove/reinstall pressfit bottom brackets (or bearing, in general). Even the best bearing pullers will put stress on the inner race, and the force require to remove them will most likely cause some kind of damage/distortion.

Now, a BB like Hambini's is designed for easy bearing replacement, so it's best just to replace them...bearings are cheap enough.

But, I wouldn't remove a threaded BB just to clean it, anyways. The fewer times you can remove/install a BB in a carbon shell, the better. Just ride it till it's shot, then replace.

[ryanw]

What a load of tripe. You don't even touch the bearing when removing a PF BB.

[jmfreeman535]

What a load of tripe. You don't even touch the bearing when removing a PF BB.

Not sure what BB's you have been using, but any the require the BBT-30 tool, if you use a blind bearing puller, are a 3 piece design, or direct fit, will require contact with the bearing

[HShimada]

What a load of tripe. You don't even touch the bearing when removing a PF BB.

Not sure what BB's you have been using, but any the require the BBT-30 tool, if you use a blind bearing puller, are a 3 piece design, or direct fit, will require contact with the bearing

Good quality bearings don't get damaged when you remove a BB unless you're hammering on it (i.e. bb30 directly into frame) and NTN bearings survive multiple hammerings anyway.. Though there's pretty much no reason to remove them unless you're changing them out anyway.

In any case, back to the question of threaded bb vs one piece bb that goes in the frame in terms of "serviceability" has been 0 issue and no difference in my experience. The only difference is that one piece BB's are stiffer and can mask alignment issues on frames that are outside of manufacturing tolerences.

[ryanw]

What a load of tripe. You don't even touch the bearing when removing a PF BB.

Not sure what BB's you have been using, but any the require the BBT-30 tool, if you use a blind bearing puller, are a 3 piece design, or direct fit, will require contact with the bearing

We're talking about Cervelo's here that have a BBright bottom bracket, not a Specialized etc that has a true BB30 where the bearings are seated in the actual frame and not cups...

When removing PF30s / BBright / any bearings that are seated in cups, you don't touch the bearing when removing the bottom bracket from the frame.