Ciamillo Vs EE Cycleworks Crane Creek Brakes

[glepore]

At your weight you'll be fine with the cnc panet x/whatever. They're nice single pivot brakes.

[alcatraz]

The Fouriers/P-X/etc brakes come in two versions. One forged (steel) and one CNC (titanium). The first is heavier at around 240gr with pads, and the latter around 215gr with pads.

There are also several different designs of the CNC version. One with an integrated cable clamp, and one with straight spring design, and one with loops on the spring.

The first and the last weigh more.

Don't expect 205gr with pads. For the price however achieving around 215gr with pads is realistic and efficient, when considering the very nice brake action.

You need to be careful installing them. If they aren't centered the right way you can introduce friction or play in the arms which will affect braking peformance. It's easy to miss the latter. The first time centering is really a headscratcher even for somewhat experienced mechanics I'd say. Patience is key.

I have two sets of the loop spring external cable clamp CNC version. They both weigh ~200gr without pads and ~217gr with. I paid 40-50 usd for each set, 2nd hand. (No need to shell out 220 usd, you'd be a bit crazy .)

[Wingnut]

Feels like being back in the 80's & 90's listening to the complaining about Campagnolo delta brakes...and those that just didn't know how to set them up correctly...

[ZeroG]

The main thing with my brakes is to learn how to use the features of the Micro-cam properly. Many people, (mostly bike mechanics ironically), don't bother to read the instructions on how to optimize the brakes with the Micro-cam. If you haven't already done so, take a look at this https://www.lekki8.com/instructions on the site and scroll down to the section on the Micro-cam - if anything is not clear let me know. The biggest thing people get wrong is trying to dial in the initial gap between the pads and the rim using the barrel adjuster or by raising the cam manually and then tightening the cable clamping bolt - those two methods are wrong and take stroke away from the cam resulting in fading power and inadequate useful life of the pad before the cam bottoms out. The proper way is through the use of the small set screw accessed from the top of the brake with a 2mm allen wrench.

[mr_tim]

With everyone shifting to discs ee pop up for sale frequently. An option.

[dmbiscuit]

I just managed to pick up a set of the Mr Control CNC brakes new for $150, really excited to give them a try as I love the look and weight of my Ciamillo Zero G, but the stopping power especially in the wet does leave something to be desired... Hoping these give increased performance at not a big weight penalty.

[Juanmoretime]

I have and still ride the first pair of Gravitas SL brakes that Ted made. I have in excess of 40,000 KM or 25,000 miles for the metricly challenged. They continue to serve me well. I have not had to replace anything excect brake pads and that is a normal thing. While they reside on my "B' bike now, they still give me confience and the modulation I like. More than enough stopping power no matter what. It appears they are with me for life. I don't intend to ever replace my Blue AC1 or the brakes. Adding eTap to that bike is always a consideration.