I'm in this boat as well.pmprego wrote: ↑Tue Dec 03, 2019 6:50 amI just can't see the benefit of not going tubeless. Rolling resistance is claimed to be better but apart from that the main benefit for me is being so less likely to get a puncture. Even if you replace a tube at the speed of a F1 pit stop you are going to lose more time than with good tubeless tires and sealant.
I've been running road tubeless since sometime arround 2007~2008, and exclusively tubeless for about the last 10 years. For the last 5 years I have averaged over 6,500mi/year and I can count on one hand the number of times I've suffered a catestrophic failure and had to either call for a ride or walk since I started running tubeless.
I used to go through at least a dozen tubes a year, which amounts to I don't know how long on the side of the road changing tubes and had to call for a ride due to multiple punctures at least every few months. Switching to tubeless was the best bike upgrade I ever made. Additional comfort from being able to run lower pressure and better rolling resistance is just an added benefit.
I generally will pull off my tires, rinse them out and re-mount them every 4~6 months. Aside from that, unless I get a puncture I don't bother with them. The key is good sealant. My personal preference is Stan's Race, or regular Stan's if I'm in a pinch. I also cary plugs and a mini-pump for emergency situations. I don't bother carying tubes for road anymore, only for gravel or MTB tires.
If you get a puncture, DO NOT let it go all the way flat, pull over and put a plug in it. If it seals before you stop, great, but if it doesn't seal in a few seconds don't wait for all of the sealant to blow out. Put a plug in it and air it up. If it still leaks, ride it till it gets spongy, then stop and air it up again. Worst case, it will get you to where you need to be.
DO NOT let it go all the way flat, If the tire gets too low (like 20PSI low on a skinny tire) you run the risk of the bead slipping into the channel, and that's where the nightmare begins.
DO NOT USE CO2 unless absolutely necessary. And I mean the only thing you should use CO2 for is if the bead comes off. CO2 comes out cold enough it will flash freeze your sealant rendering it useless. If you must use CO2 for any reason other than re-seating the bead, keep the valve stem at 12 O'clock to minimize the chance of the sealant freezing and take the tire off, clean it out and re set it up when you get home.
You're going to get all sorts of opinions on the toppic in here. People who are 100% for, people who are 100% against. Neither will be 100% right fit for everyone. Best thing to do is to educate yourself on it and make up your own mind as to what will be best for your needs.