Threaded to threadless

[schlafen]

Just asking myself:

Install a threadless headset 1 inch, use one of these shims reducing 1 1/8 to 1 inch on top, preload through this shim and clamp with the ahead stem? Provided that there is enough threaded stem above the top cap, likely requires a super slam top cap.

I'm thinking a threaded sleeve/shim maybe with 1 1/8" outside diameter,
1" star nut
1 1/8" top cap
1 1/8" stem
1" threadless headset

Preload headset by threading in the sleeve, fit 1 1/8" stem and lock it with the top cap.
Tighten stem bolts to spec.
Can even squirt some loctite on the threads for peace of mind.

I would say it is possible for it to work safely if the sleeve covers the threaded section. 100% reversible, lightweight and if someone has access to a lathe already, it would be dirt cheap as well. The rest of the bits are available to buy for a few coins.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

[joejack951]

Just asking myself:

Install a threadless headset 1 inch, use one of these shims reducing 1 1/8 to 1 inch on top, preload through this shim and clamp with the ahead stem? Provided that there is enough threaded stem above the top cap, likely requires a super slam top cap.

I'm thinking a threaded sleeve/shim maybe with 1 1/8" outside diameter,
1" star nut
1 1/8" top cap
1 1/8" stem
1" threadless headset

Preload headset by threading in the sleeve, fit 1 1/8" stem and lock it with the top cap.
Tighten stem bolts to spec.
Can even squirt some loctite on the threads for peace of mind.

I would say it is possible for it to work safely if the sleeve covers the threaded section. 100% reversible, lightweight and if someone has access to a lathe already, it would be dirt cheap as well. The rest of the bits are available to buy for a few coins.

All well and good if you are willing and able to find a replacement fork with enough excess length. But for the vast majority of vintage bike owners the fork steerer is cut for a typical threaded headset and as such will be far too short for a threadless stem. If someone is willing to do all that, they might as well replace/extend the steerer on their original fork with a threadless one. It can always be cut and threaded later to go back to the original setup.

[SABARRAS]

This is the colour scheme I have chosen for my super light Peugeot restomod build.
I would add some 80s, Columbus Forcella originale (Original forks) gold stickers and a white Peugeot lion logo just to integrate the modern forks better with the frame.

I estimated a weight of 6.3-6.4 Kg for the build, I would have to add more weight weenie bits to get into the 5+Kgs category, I think the low 6s will be fine for a usable semi vintage ride.

[schlafen]

Just asking myself:

Install a threadless headset 1 inch, use one of these shims reducing 1 1/8 to 1 inch on top, preload through this shim and clamp with the ahead stem? Provided that there is enough threaded stem above the top cap, likely requires a super slam top cap.

I'm thinking a threaded sleeve/shim maybe with 1 1/8" outside diameter,
1" star nut
1 1/8" top cap
1 1/8" stem
1" threadless headset

Preload headset by threading in the sleeve, fit 1 1/8" stem and lock it with the top cap.
Tighten stem bolts to spec.
Can even squirt some loctite on the threads for peace of mind.

I would say it is possible for it to work safely if the sleeve covers the threaded section. 100% reversible, lightweight and if someone has access to a lathe already, it would be dirt cheap as well. The rest of the bits are available to buy for a few coins.

All well and good if you are willing and able to find a replacement fork with enough excess length. But for the vast majority of vintage bike owners the fork steerer is cut for a typical threaded headset and as such will be far too short for a threadless stem. If someone is willing to do all that, they might as well replace/extend the steerer on their original fork with a threadless one. It can always be cut and threaded later to go back to the original setup.

Heh, trust me I know.

I used quill adaptors before and, not to brag or anything, they slip under hard acceleration and the handlebars would move.
Yep, full panic mode and all that, the first time it happened.

They never really stay in one place and need constant centering. After they slip a few times they don't grip the same as when new, without overtightening them.
A pain really and they can only be tightened so much.

I've looked at all sensible options before I replaced the steerer on a couple forks now. Worth it 100% for peace of mind alone.

It is the only way I would do it now, but there's no harm in considering other options.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

[joejack951]

I used quill adaptors before and, not to brag or anything, they slip under hard acceleration and the handlebars would move.
Yep, full panic mode and all that, the first time it happened.

They never really stay in one place and need constant centering. After they slip a few times they don't grip the same as when new, without overtightening them.
A pain really and they can only be tightened so much.

I've looked at all sensible options before I replaced the steerer on a couple forks now. Worth it 100% for peace of mind alone.

It is the only way I would do it now, but there's no harm in considering other options.

If anyone hates quill adapters with a passion, it's me. Have you looked at the innicycle headset I designed so that I could run a threadless stem without having to use some crap adapter?

[MikeD]

Just asking myself:

Install a threadless headset 1 inch, use one of these shims reducing 1 1/8 to 1 inch on top, preload through this shim and clamp with the ahead stem? Provided that there is enough threaded stem above the top cap, likely requires a super slam top cap.

I'm thinking a threaded sleeve/shim maybe with 1 1/8" outside diameter,
1" star nut
1 1/8" top cap
1 1/8" stem
1" threadless headset

Preload headset by threading in the sleeve, fit 1 1/8" stem and lock it with the top cap.
Tighten stem bolts to spec.
Can even squirt some loctite on the threads for peace of mind.

I would say it is possible for it to work safely if the sleeve covers the threaded section. 100% reversible, lightweight and if someone has access to a lathe already, it would be dirt cheap as well. The rest of the bits are available to buy for a few coins.

All well and good if you are willing and able to find a replacement fork with enough excess length. But for the vast majority of vintage bike owners the fork steerer is cut for a typical threaded headset and as such will be far too short for a threadless stem. If someone is willing to do all that, they might as well replace/extend the steerer on their original fork with a threadless one. It can always be cut and threaded later to go back to the original setup.

Heh, trust me I know.

I used quill adaptors before and, not to brag or anything, they slip under hard acceleration and the handlebars would move.
Yep, full panic mode and all that, the first time it happened.

They never really stay in one place and need constant centering. After they slip a few times they don't grip the same as when new, without overtightening them.
A pain really and they can only be tightened so much.

I've looked at all sensible options before I replaced the steerer on a couple forks now. Worth it 100% for peace of mind alone.

It is the only way I would do it now, but there's no harm in considering other options.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

A quill adapter should be no more prone to slip than a quill stem because they use the same clamping/wedge mechanism. Some carbon paste on it and torquing to proper specs should help with that, plus using a quality adapter such as a Nitto too.

[schlafen]

I'm thinking a threaded sleeve/shim maybe with 1 1/8" outside diameter,
1" star nut
1 1/8" top cap
1 1/8" stem
1" threadless headset

Preload headset by threading in the sleeve, fit 1 1/8" stem and lock it with the top cap.
Tighten stem bolts to spec.
Can even squirt some loctite on the threads for peace of mind.

I would say it is possible for it to work safely if the sleeve covers the threaded section. 100% reversible, lightweight and if someone has access to a lathe already, it would be dirt cheap as well. The rest of the bits are available to buy for a few coins.

All well and good if you are willing and able to find a replacement fork with enough excess length. But for the vast majority of vintage bike owners the fork steerer is cut for a typical threaded headset and as such will be far too short for a threadless stem. If someone is willing to do all that, they might as well replace/extend the steerer on their original fork with a threadless one. It can always be cut and threaded later to go back to the original setup.

Heh, trust me I know.

I used quill adaptors before and, not to brag or anything, they slip under hard acceleration and the handlebars would move.
Yep, full panic mode and all that, the first time it happened.

They never really stay in one place and need constant centering. After they slip a few times they don't grip the same as when new, without overtightening them.
A pain really and they can only be tightened so much.

I've looked at all sensible options before I replaced the steerer on a couple forks now. Worth it 100% for peace of mind alone.

It is the only way I would do it now, but there's no harm in considering other options.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

A quill adapter should be no more prone to slip than a quill stem because they use the same clamping/wedge mechanism. Some carbon paste on it and torquing to proper specs should help with that, plus using a quality adapter such as a Nitto too.

If you're not the type to pull/push on handlebars when sprinting hard, there should be no issues.

This happens only when I'm pushing it.
If riding like all people ride their vintage bikes, like their nana's porcelain, it's fine.

After it happened first time I lost my confidence to sprint hard on a bike with quill stem or adapter/shim. It took me a while to shrug it off.

I run a 1" threadless setup, no adapters, no shims on my Peugeot, I'll take some pictures and weigh the stem/fork/headset very soon as it's getting serviced.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

[Feehliks]

For the time going I will go with a quill adapter. But might try the threaded sleeve sometime sounds interesting.

The Innicycle solution looks really great but given the costs I need to be sure that my vintage project is going to work first.

[MikeD]

All well and good if you are willing and able to find a replacement fork with enough excess length. But for the vast majority of vintage bike owners the fork steerer is cut for a typical threaded headset and as such will be far too short for a threadless stem. If someone is willing to do all that, they might as well replace/extend the steerer on their original fork with a threadless one. It can always be cut and threaded later to go back to the original setup.

Heh, trust me I know.

I used quill adaptors before and, not to brag or anything, they slip under hard acceleration and the handlebars would move.
Yep, full panic mode and all that, the first time it happened.

They never really stay in one place and need constant centering. After they slip a few times they don't grip the same as when new, without overtightening them.
A pain really and they can only be tightened so much.

I've looked at all sensible options before I replaced the steerer on a couple forks now. Worth it 100% for peace of mind alone.

It is the only way I would do it now, but there's no harm in considering other options.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

A quill adapter should be no more prone to slip than a quill stem because they use the same clamping/wedge mechanism. Some carbon paste on it and torquing to proper specs should help with that, plus using a quality adapter such as a Nitto too.

If you're not the type to pull/push on handlebars when sprinting hard, there should be no issues.

This happens only when I'm pushing it.
If riding like all people ride their vintage bikes, like their nana's porcelain, it's fine.

After it happened first time I lost my confidence to sprint hard on a bike with quill stem or adapter/shim. It took me a while to shrug it off.

I run a 1" threadless setup, no adapters, no shims on my Peugeot, I'll take some pictures and weigh the stem/fork/headset very soon as it's getting serviced.

Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

Food for thought: pro sprinters and track racers were riding quill stems long before threadless was invented and had no problems.

[schlafen]

I'm sure that's true for brand new fork steerers and quill stems, never over tightened or forcefully wiggled out, or generally for non hamfisted people.

Too many variables here, this is just what I personally experienced a few times when using quill adapters on vintage used bikes.

I can confirm once replaced with a new threadless fork steerer, you're laughing.


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[MikeD]

I'm sure that's true for brand new fork steerers and quill stems, never over tightened or forcefully wiggled out, or generally for non hamfisted people.

Too many variables here, this is just what I personally experienced a few times when using quill adapters on vintage used bikes.

I can confirm once replaced with a new threadless fork steerer, you're laughing.


Sent from my SM-G981B using Tapatalk

What torque did you use on the stem binder bolt? It's a lot higher than one would think, probably more than you could do with a short Allen key, on the order of 100-150 in-lbs, from what I've found in an internet search.

[DeLuz]

I just aquired a vintage steel frame and it came without a headet.
Looked at Innicycle adapter, looks nice has anybody actually used it?

Thanks

[joejack951]

I just aquired a vintage steel frame and it came without a headet.
Looked at Innicycle adapter, looks nice has anybody actually used it?

Thanks

Somehow missed this old post. Not sure if you are still in the market for a headset but as the designer of the innicycle headset I can likely answer your questions. There is also some recent discussion happening here if you want unbiased opinions: https://www.facebook.com/groups/neoretr ... 065110565/