Wheels for climbing

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Posts: 275
Joined: Sat Feb 25, 2017 6:28 am

by maxim809

jpmoore4 wrote:
Sun Jun 28, 2020 1:17 am
I have been researching a climbing wheelset to put on my Emonda SLR. I've just been riding with the stock, aluminum 1550g clinchers. This is what I have concluded:

1. Tubeless will be more effecient, at least up to steep terrain (9%+). This can be calculated based on the crr of the best tubular and tubeless wheels, and the bike + my weight and 15-minute power. The best tubeless tires seem to be 2 watts faster than the best tubulars at 12MPH. So I concluded that a 1300g tubless wheel would be better than a 900g tubular.
2. Aerodynamics matter, even at 10-12 MPH. Savings between a 25mm and 50mm rim is on the order of 5 watts at 12MPH.

I would guess that the break-even point for 900g/25mm tubulars and 1300g/50mm clinchers is around 14% for my weight (55kg) and power (300W 15 minute) taking both aerodynamics and rolling resistance into account.

-- Obviously, at faster speeds/flatter terrain the numbers become even more favorable for deep rims and tubeless.

So I'm leaning towards Farsports 50mm Tubeless with Carbon-Ti hubs.
Always a tough decision between tubs vs tubeless, but good thing is both will be an upgrade from the clinchers especially if racing.

But go for the tubeless. Remember you need to factor in sealant weight to your calculations (maybe you already are), but the benefits are worth it in my mind. The self-repair of tubeless isn't always perfect, but when it works it's awesome. Especially if you are racing on road with goats/thorns/glass.

Secondly, yes aero matters a lot at your level. You probably already know all this... because I see you doing calculations for speeds of 10~12mph, but for your wkg you're going so fast up false flats and shallow grades that when it comes to corners you need to think much more about the line you take, staying low/aero, holding speed, and even questioning do you keep pedaling through or stop and counter-steer. Folks with lower wkg will be happy to simply pedal through completely upright.

Yeah man, get the tubeless. My only recommendation is to give enough experimentation time before taking them out to race, to make sure you have a good combo between wheel + tire + sealant selection.
2013 Cannondale Synapse | 2015 LaPierre Pulsium | 2016 Pinarello Dogma F8 | 2016 Bianchi XR4 | 2019 Spesh Sprint

Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2020 1:33 pm

by trainingpartner

Nefarious86 wrote:
Tue Nov 19, 2019 1:18 am
Fast becoming my favorite combo.

DT Swiss oxic 1400
Maxxis High Road TR
RapidAir sealant
Swissstop BXP padsImage

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
That's a very good wheelset! Braking is incredible, they perform well and look good.
For clincher rim brake I don't think there is a better wheel around. :beerchug:

by Weenie

Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2019 2:37 pm

by NLC86

ericlambi wrote:
Sat Jun 27, 2020 10:18 pm
NLC86 wrote:
Sat Jun 27, 2020 3:30 pm
Hi, I'm looking for a climbing rim wheelset (for clincher). My key criteria are:
- Stiffness
- Lightness
- Reliability and durability
- Braking performance (Dry/Wet)
- Assistance and Warranty

Which one would you pick between?
- Bontrager Aeolus XXX TLR 2
- Roval CLX 32
- Fulcrum Racing Zero Carbon
- Other?

PS I forgot to mention...they will be used on a Trek Emonda SLR
Hey- I recently bought a set of rival clx32. Braking performance is very poor compared to my Enve wheels. If I had it to do over again I'd buy Enve or Zipp NSW. The extra 75 or 100g, whatever, is worth it. Actually, now that it's brought up, nothing stopping me from just buying a better wheel set, probably will. No idea about those other wheels you mention.
I'm more afraid about the price. I believe Zipp and Enve are overpriced for the perfomance they offer, that's why my shortlist included Bontrager and Fulcrum, more affordable and decent, at least on the paper.....

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Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 3:35 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

by robertbb


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