2020 Specialized Tarmac SL7
Moderator: robbosmans
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- Location: Scotland now.
I had my SL7 built last Thrusday; took it out for 2 rides at the weekend -
1st ride was planned 100km but ended up doing 38km. I was an idiot and had the seat 5cm too high, seat was loose and was scared to tighten it too tight without a torque wrench, my rear wheel with its shiny new GP5000 S TR had a loose tubeless valve and started 65psi and finished 25psi. Massive failed ride.
2nd ride was planned 70km and manged the 70km; bike was fast! fixed all the errors from the day before, certainly rides faster than my Cervelo S3 did, with same everything except the frame and Pro One tyres. Stem is too high but knew that, will be slammed this week. I tried Most Superlight Bar tape and its comfy in the drops but horrendous in the hoods; thinkng of going back to Fizik Solocush Tacky of trying Lizard skins 2.5(heard it doesnt last) but glad the Most tape was really cheap.
When i get the stem slammed this week, i will get some pics but so far glad i jumped to the bike rather than wait for the new S5.
1st ride was planned 100km but ended up doing 38km. I was an idiot and had the seat 5cm too high, seat was loose and was scared to tighten it too tight without a torque wrench, my rear wheel with its shiny new GP5000 S TR had a loose tubeless valve and started 65psi and finished 25psi. Massive failed ride.
2nd ride was planned 70km and manged the 70km; bike was fast! fixed all the errors from the day before, certainly rides faster than my Cervelo S3 did, with same everything except the frame and Pro One tyres. Stem is too high but knew that, will be slammed this week. I tried Most Superlight Bar tape and its comfy in the drops but horrendous in the hoods; thinkng of going back to Fizik Solocush Tacky of trying Lizard skins 2.5(heard it doesnt last) but glad the Most tape was really cheap.
When i get the stem slammed this week, i will get some pics but so far glad i jumped to the bike rather than wait for the new S5.
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 5:46 pm
I noticed the same thing when I built up my SL7 and can confirm that looks exactly like mine - my 2019 Venge disc had less space there for sure.JackMak wrote: ↑Sun May 15, 2022 3:44 amJust recived my warranty SL7 frame, does this gap below the lower spacer seem normal? Can't seem to remember what it was on my old frame. download/file.php?mode=view&id=98100&si ... 91a9c561c4
Seven Axiom SG - Force AXS rim brake
Colnago C50 - Campy Chorus 12
Wilier Filante - SRAM Force/Red AXS
Wilier Zero SLR - Red AXS
Colnago C50 - Campy Chorus 12
Wilier Filante - SRAM Force/Red AXS
Wilier Zero SLR - Red AXS
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Breathtaking, Rhino. This really pains me. I tried to source the full bike (Tarmac Speed of Light) in size 52 for almost a year in Germany with no success.
I have seen some people are using combo of older
CLX50 front, CLX64 rear. Can be good as well if you get a deal!
Around 1500g, that's a good weight for 21/30mm with hooks.
CLX50 front, CLX64 rear. Can be good as well if you get a deal!
Around 1500g, that's a good weight for 21/30mm with hooks.
SW SL8 RTP 56cm @ 9270 / CLX II / CS OSPW / CEMA BB
S Epic 8 L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p
S Epic 8 L @ XX T-Type / Berg Ratheberg 30 / Quarq / Fox Transfer SL 100mm / 3p
This was mine is full race mode, not bad with 7.8s, aero pedals, 54/40T.
SL8 S-Works Project Black - 6.29kg
IG: RhinosWorkshop
IG: RhinosWorkshop
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Holy Molly Thats incredible almost 1kg difference with mineryanw wrote:This was mine is full race mode, not bad with 7.8s, aero pedals, 54/40T.
I use enve 4.5ar and never get past 7.5kg
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Got Invisiframe for mine, mine was used to make the templates for a size 54.Ride4Life wrote:I used ride wrap the 1st time, then tried Suntek ultra PFF from my buddy that wraps cars.kode54 wrote: ↑Sun May 15, 2022 2:41 pmI get scraps from a auto detailing place which does clear film. There’s different thicknesses, for paint panels and thicker for headlights and lower body panels.Ride4Life wrote:I have before.
Watch a few YouTube videos and maybe buy a cheap roll off PFF of eBay to practice with before using the actual invisiframe kit.
It's one of those things that takes practice but once you get the technique down it's pretty straight forward.
Those gaps between pieces are great for beginners. It allows a margin of error, and the ability to get the soap bubbles out.
I use a paper template and use that as a guide and cut accordingly. Easy to stretch an form around complex curves. Use a positioning liquid like Windex and a heat gun for especially difficult corners.
That stuff (Suntek) is amazing and is what I now have on all my bikes ...
TBH...If one has the patience....your method (scraps that they will to you for free or at a low cost) and tracing the shapes, is the best method IMHO for DIYers.
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I realize that you see this question many times but I will ask anyway. I'm about to make a major bike purchase with a custom build but can't quite decide what frameset to go with. A couple of data points about me. I'm 53, 6'5" and 88kg. I'm pretty flexible (still and enjoy pushing my limits on a road bike. I come from a Canyon Endurace bike and would like to get something more performance oriented. I'm now eyeing the Tarmac SL7 but hesitating, given that the geometry is more aggressive than what I currently ride. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks!