Hi,
I've cut my Bowman Palace R fork a little to short. I've been waiting about 6 months for Bowman to come up with a spare fork to no avail. It's fine for shorter rides but would prefer some flexibility. I can't really use the drops for example.
They have given me the specs to find something else, but I cant find anything exactly the same.
Offset 45mm
Axle to crown 375mm
Lower bearing 1.5 inches
Any recommendations?
Current setup enables 15mm of spacers. I probably need an extra 10mm. I hate the idea of an inverted stem.
Cheers
Matt
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Recommend me a fork...
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joejack951
- Posts: 1162
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
- Location: Wilmington, DE
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What about handlebars with some rise? Specialized Aerofly or similar?
How tall is your stem’s steerer clamp? If 40mm+ perhaps you could use a shorter option (I believe there are some ~35mm tall clamps out there) to get back some height.
How tall is your stem’s steerer clamp? If 40mm+ perhaps you could use a shorter option (I believe there are some ~35mm tall clamps out there) to get back some height.
That's another option I hadn't thought of - thanks. Currently I have a Deda zero stem and some ritchey bog standard (cheapo) bars. I'll research some bars with a rise.
Here's a picture of the stem postion with 20mm spacers. This is comfortable but I'm concerned it is too short for this setup. Mad how much difference 5mm makes, especially as I haven't cycled as much this so am less flexible.
Another option I have is to change from spd-sl shoes to mtb shoes. This is how is set the bike up originally. The mtb shoes allowed me to set the saddle slightly lower.
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Here's a picture of the stem postion with 20mm spacers. This is comfortable but I'm concerned it is too short for this setup. Mad how much difference 5mm makes, especially as I haven't cycled as much this so am less flexible.
Another option I have is to change from spd-sl shoes to mtb shoes. This is how is set the bike up originally. The mtb shoes allowed me to set the saddle slightly lower.
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Yep doesn't fill me with confidence! I do feel starting again with the fork is the best thing to do. I have used it in that setup pictured, whilst it doesn't show clearly the top of the carbon is in line with the centre of the screw. The bung is above.
The Columbus looks correct for dimensions but doesn't say what the axle to crown length is (need 375mm). Does it even matter what this measurement is or is the offset the most important thing?
Cheers guys.
Matt
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The Columbus looks correct for dimensions but doesn't say what the axle to crown length is (need 375mm). Does it even matter what this measurement is or is the offset the most important thing?
Cheers guys.
Matt
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Axle to crown is 368 says Chain Reaction Cycles, assuming we’re talking rim brakes.
Does it matter? It may reduce tyre clearance, or it may not. Mine takes 28s easily. It may reduce effective stack and marginally increase the head tube angle. I wouldn’t worry about the latter and you can obviously compensate for reduced stack using that shiny new steerer tube and an extra spacer if it’s a problem
Does it matter? It may reduce tyre clearance, or it may not. Mine takes 28s easily. It may reduce effective stack and marginally increase the head tube angle. I wouldn’t worry about the latter and you can obviously compensate for reduced stack using that shiny new steerer tube and an extra spacer if it’s a problem
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joejack951
- Posts: 1162
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
- Location: Wilmington, DE
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I make a steerer tube insert (gets glued in with Loctite 641 or epoxy) that would make it safe to use that fork as-is, possibly with just a couple millimeters of spacer removed. I can share more details if there is interest.
This is an earlier version (on my bike):
Last edited by joejack951 on Sun Oct 13, 2019 8:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-The Shimano S-phyre road shoes have an incredibly low stack height.They are expensive but on par with a quality carbon fork.The difference of Dura ace pedals vs Ulterga is another 2mm if I rememder correctly(but I don't think it justifies the expense).
-Your Deda stem has 82/8 degree angle and stack height of 38mm.If you can find a stem with the same stack height but with 84/6 angle,on a 110-120mm stem you will get a rise of 4-5mm.Kcnc makes stems with 38mm stack height and 85/5 angle and they are cheap.
-I wouldn't recommend changing a fork of 375mm with one of 368.The downwards "roll" of the frame will effectively change the angles of it(e.g.the 73 headtube angle with a 368mm fork will effectively on the road become approx.73.4,albeit you can "cheat"the trail difference with 43mm rake fork).Same goes for the seat tube angle.Also this "roll" will alternate the bb drop.All these geometrical changes will have an effect on the handling of the bike.
If I were you,I would first start with the Kcnc stem.It's cheapest thing you can do.Then see how it goes from there.
-Your Deda stem has 82/8 degree angle and stack height of 38mm.If you can find a stem with the same stack height but with 84/6 angle,on a 110-120mm stem you will get a rise of 4-5mm.Kcnc makes stems with 38mm stack height and 85/5 angle and they are cheap.
-I wouldn't recommend changing a fork of 375mm with one of 368.The downwards "roll" of the frame will effectively change the angles of it(e.g.the 73 headtube angle with a 368mm fork will effectively on the road become approx.73.4,albeit you can "cheat"the trail difference with 43mm rake fork).Same goes for the seat tube angle.Also this "roll" will alternate the bb drop.All these geometrical changes will have an effect on the handling of the bike.
If I were you,I would first start with the Kcnc stem.It's cheapest thing you can do.Then see how it goes from there.
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