Disc brakes: your greatest dreams, and fears confirmed.

Back by popular demand, the general all-things Road forum!

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TobinHatesYou
Posts: 12570
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

icantaffordcycling wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 2:42 am
^ this. Similar to how some carbon rims have poor breaking, some rotors are just plain bad.
Not something unique to disc brakes before someone makes that argument.

Making up fake problems to instill fear, uncertainty and doubt in the impressionable??? Textbook. SRAM Centerline X rotors are US$50. Other decent rotors are quite a bit cheaper still.

AnkitS
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA

by AnkitS

Edit: totally misunderstood what you were saying.

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robertbb
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by robertbb

icantaffordcycling wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 2:42 am
^ this. Similar to how some carbon rims have poor breaking, some rotors are just plain bad.
Not something unique to disc brakes before someone makes that argument.
troll troll troll yer boat, gently down the stream...

joejack951
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by joejack951

TheRich wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 2:24 am
joejack951 wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 2:18 am
Road 15mm thru axle already came and went. My 2016 Hong Fu frameset uses a 15mm front thru axle and 12mm rear. I think many cyclocross frames built around the same time shared the same size as it is a readily available thru axle (15x1.5mm thread and 125mm length).
15mm is the MTB standard, but the axle plays more of a part in stiffening the fork on an MTB than it does a road bike. They may have done that because those hubs were already available....reinforcing the idea to never buy the first generation of anything.
It makes little to no difference in reality. Many (maybe most) hubs are easily convertible from 15 to 12 and vice versa. The Bitex hubs I use certainly are. It would only be a ‘real’ problem if I came across a wheelset I wanted that was 12mm only or had a hub that wasn’t easily converted and wanted to share it with a 12mm forked bike. For those reasons (which don’t even apply to me yet but may some day), I am working on an adapter kit to step down from a 15mm axle to 12mm. I’ll be testing the first prototypes this week.

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 12570
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

Yep, simple endcap swaps in most cases. Soooometimes an axle swap is needed. The native axle diameter of my WI CLDs is 15mm. The native diameter of my I9 Torches is 17mm.

rides4beer
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Location: VA

by rides4beer

robertbb wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:21 am
Rubbish. As I said on the last page, Tour magazine's alpine braking torture test confirms that there are good and bad products in both rim and disc brake formats.

Shimano's top line rotors were melted/warped.
Campy and Zipp's top line carbon clinchers didn't just pass - they aced it.
Do you have a link? I can't find the article, but finding Tour articles is usually a pita. :lol:

okimy
Posts: 161
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2019 4:02 pm

by okimy

rides4beer wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 4:22 pm
robertbb wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:21 am
Rubbish. As I said on the last page, Tour magazine's alpine braking torture test confirms that there are good and bad products in both rim and disc brake formats.

Shimano's top line rotors were melted/warped.
Campy and Zipp's top line carbon clinchers didn't just pass - they aced it.
Do you have a link? I can't find the article, but finding Tour articles is usually a pita. :lol:
Apparently it's in the 06/2014 magazine. Probably outdated by now, but make of that what you will.
I didn't find the article but here's a website (in German, didn't find the English one) referencing it: https://www.tour-magazin.de/service/so_ ... 30097.html

okimy
Posts: 161
Joined: Wed Jun 26, 2019 4:02 pm

by okimy

rides4beer wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 4:22 pm
robertbb wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:21 am
Rubbish. As I said on the last page, Tour magazine's alpine braking torture test confirms that there are good and bad products in both rim and disc brake formats.

Shimano's top line rotors were melted/warped.
Campy and Zipp's top line carbon clinchers didn't just pass - they aced it.
Do you have a link? I can't find the article, but finding Tour articles is usually a pita. :lol:
Another Article is in 04/2019 (my source https://www.tour-magazin.de/raeder/renn ... 47384.html , yes it's in German again) It seems to be much more positive toward discs than the one from 2014 (2/3 of the recommended bikes are disc). This is about specific bikes though and not the braking system in general.

rides4beer
Posts: 690
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Location: VA

by rides4beer

okimy wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 6:17 pm
Apparently it's in the 06/2014 magazine. Probably outdated by now, but make of that what you will.
I didn't find the article but here's a website (in German, didn't find the English one) referencing it: https://www.tour-magazin.de/service/so_ ... 30097.html
Thanks. Would be interesting to see the full test results, or a new test done with current tech (hopefully they've improved over the last five years? lol). I have Shimano icetech rotors (RT81s) and have done some pretty hard, extended braking efforts with no ill effects (braking wise, they did start to make some noise after repeated efforts on steep switchbacks, but never had any loss of braking power).

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Alexbn921
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by Alexbn921

Ice tech rotors are my favorite rotors. While it's possible to destroy anything, these are not going to come apart on you vs all steel rotors.
All rotors, even new ones need trued. Getting them perfectly straight will alleviate most problems with them rubbing or warping, unless they are way undersized and you drag the hell out of them.

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/
Disk can take a lot more abuse then most people give them credit for.
What-is-the-best-disc-brake-group-testing-enduro-magazine-22-1140x760.jpg
Ride fast Take chances

Hexsense
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Location: USA

by Hexsense

Another rant in disc brake:
Can we have another bleeding fluid that is easy to clean up and doesn't contaminate the brake pad badly?

I get it, after initial set-up and bleeding period, there should be no more mineral oil around outside to contaminate the disc pad and rotor.

But hell, I did the mistake on initial set-up and spill mineral oil around calipers (inc piston area), hydraulic hose, mount, fork etc.
Despite my effort (that apperantly not good enough) to clean everything up before installing the pad. After a few first rides i saw pad contaminated with mineral oil anyway. Mineral oil is so good at sticking to everything. It took 3-4 rides where i clean brake pad after each ride until there is little or no trace of mineral oil on brake pad. I hope i don't have to re-bleed the system anytime soon so that i don't run into risk of contaminating mineral oil to my calipers and pads again...

spdntrxi
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by spdntrxi

^blow torch it^ and alcohol wipes
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ChiZ01
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by ChiZ01

or just a spray bottle filled with 99% alcohol

TobinHatesYou
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by TobinHatesYou

Clean Streak and a clean rag if isopropyl alcohol doesn't work. It's so strong you will probably have to go through the bedding in process again.

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TheRich
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by TheRich

rides4beer wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 4:22 pm
robertbb wrote:
Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:21 am
Rubbish. As I said on the last page, Tour magazine's alpine braking torture test confirms that there are good and bad products in both rim and disc brake formats.

Shimano's top line rotors were melted/warped.
Campy and Zipp's top line carbon clinchers didn't just pass - they aced it.
Do you have a link? I can't find the article, but finding Tour articles is usually a pita. :lol:
Since AL melts at 1,200F, at which point I'm pretty sure the pads would be literally burning, oh and mineral oil boils at 700F, I'm somewhat disinclined to take his word for it.

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