Disc brakes: your greatest dreams, and fears confirmed.

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

To be fair cable disc brakes are mostly pus bar the Pauls units.

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by Weenie


TobinHatesYou
Posts: 4837
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

talltales wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 2:55 am

The "aguments" just get better and better. Now Im projecting and spilling oil on my rotors. :roll:

Im NOT spreading FUD. I tell it like it is. Both my TRP eqipped bikes have very poor brake performance.

Apparently the disc brake police doet not allow that position. You make up endless "arguments" and attacks.

Now I only need to "do my home work", get special non compression cables that didnt come oem with the bikes, get really expensive 3rd party pads, clean the discs (again) with special bike degreaser, set it up right, break in the pads (the right way - what ever that is), not spill oil on the discs and stop projecting to make em work .. OK, Im sure its great then :-) ... and if if it still doesnt work right, im sure its still user fail, cos discs are great!

When I got my TRP Spyre SLCs, yes I went with compressionless link cable housing, and yes I went with third-party pads and rotors. I wanted to give myself the best braking with those calipers. Cost was not a priority. Only gripe with the Spyres was the hex-based pad advancement and the fact that it didn’t have detents like, say Avid BB7s so there was potential for some precession in the bolt.

And I bet most rim-brake users here are very picky about which pads they use on which rims. At least with disc you don’t really have to worry about whether SwissStop Disc RS pads work adequately on other rotors. So what happens if you own wheels from ENVE, Campy, etc. and they each prefer different pads? Ideally you swap them in/out, right?

Bedding in disc rotors is braindead easy, don’t act so confused. You pedal up to, say 15-20mph and apply a steady force on the lever, letting go before you come to a stop. Do this a few times until the braking effectiveness no longer improves. What’s so hard about that?

If you don’t have a light spray/aerosol degreaser, then go buy some from an automotive store, bike shop or whatever. It’s handy for more than cleaning rotors! Also brake surface cleaning isn’t disc exclusive. People use Mavic rim stones or 3M pads with degreaser on their alloy braketracks to clean the muck off.

And in the end you’re still talking about a half-measure cable actuated disc brake system.

talltales
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:43 pm

by talltales

There you go. Finally admitting to all the fuss and expense. Im already aware of all of it. Sadly out of necessity. Imo it should work right out the box to warrant the "discs are great" claim. Instead its like $ 250-300 to fix both bikes with the suggested supplys. - Provided I can get the parts online and fix it my self. Else a lot more at the LBS.

and please stop acting like rim brakes are equally finicky. They are not. Stock, inexpensive shimano parts work just fine.

flying
Posts: 2106
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:16 am

by flying

Nikoras wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 3:40 am
I know I'm new here and we all have very strong opinions on brakes but could we maybe keep this a bit more civil?
No worries about being new & if you watch awhile you will see it is usually the new guys that are uncivil/zealot like :wink:

Old timers tend to just ride & are not so zealot like about the latest greatest improvement :wink:

Its all good & I think what we all share is a love of cycling

TheRich
Posts: 608
Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2019 1:36 am

by TheRich

talltales wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 2:55 am
TobinHatesYou wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 2:43 am
If there is a difference in braking power between a squealing/honking disc set-up and a quiet one, it's borderline undetectable. Perhaps you are projecting some rim-brake experiences??? I'm honestly confused by this statement because I don't remember this really being an issue with either brake technology. The few times I have had disc squeal, it became psychological...I was drag braking with hesitation on some group rides because of it. Switching away from SRAM's OEM pads to SwissStop Disc RS yellow pads 99% eliminates squeal. White Lightning Clean Streak or Finish Line "yellow" degreaser or brake cleaner deals with the remaining %.

Maybe if you spill a shitload of oil on your rotors, but that's way beyond having a bit of squeal.

You're free to love your rim brakes to death, but don't spread FUD about disc brakes.
The "aguments" just get better and better. Now Im projecting and spilling oil on my rotors. :roll:

Im NOT spreading FUD. I tell it like it is. Both my TRP eqipped bikes have very poor brake performance.

Apparently the disc brake police doet not allow that position. You make up endless "arguments" and attacks.

Now I only need to "do my home work", get special non compression cables that didnt come oem with the bikes, get really expensive 3rd party pads, clean the discs (again) with special bike degreaser, set it up right, break in the pads (the right way - what ever that is), not spill oil on the discs and stop projecting to make em work .. OK, Im sure its great then :-) ... and if if it still doesnt work right, im sure its still user fail, cos discs are great!
What do you expect from a cable actuated disk? I've ridden them on a MTB for about 5 minutes and it was downright terrifying.

You are literally the only person complaining about a lack of power because you aren't even talking about the same brakes as anyone else.

ichobi
Posts: 1001
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:30 pm

by ichobi

It's like some one just got in the door and want a tiagra brake to perform as good as dura ace direct mount. Not gonna happen mate.





TobinHatesYou
Posts: 4837
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

talltales wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 5:01 am
There you go. Finally admitting to all the fuss and expense. Im already aware of all of it. Sadly out of necessity. Imo it should work right out the box to warrant the "discs are great" claim. Instead its like $ 250-300 to fix both bikes with the suggested supplys. - Provided I can get the parts online and fix it my self. Else a lot more at the LBS.

and please stop acting like rim brakes are equally finicky. They are not. Stock, inexpensive shimano parts work just fine.

It's not fuss, it's seeking the marginal gains to make the Spyres the best they could be, to approach the effortless lever action of a hydro set-up. Switching rotors would be analogous to switching to different wheels with better braketracks (unless you want to claim they're all equal.) Swapping pads, well a lot of rim-brake users do this already...plus you may be forced to if your various wheelsets come from different brands or even the same brand, but older version (see ENVE gray vs black pads.) Cable housing, compressionless housing makes both rim and disc braking better, does it not? Some rear rim-brake cable runs have naughty kinks in them in stock configuration which makes the lever feel incredibly mushy. Do you agree? The same applies to some cabled disc brakes. The 2017 Synapse Disc was a good example of this.

So what do you do if you're on rim-brake carbon clinchers on a steep alpine descent and stuck behind a car? I'll tell you what dvq did when we got in this situation and he was still on his rim-brake bike. He suggested we pull over for about 5 minutes and let the car build up a huge gap. Not sure if it was the same ride, but his old ENVEs eventually started pulsing as a section of the braketrack delaminated. Thankfully ENVE warrantied his wheels with 30K miles on them.

TL;DR Spyres work just fine in stock form, about on par with any cabled rim-brake technology.

talltales
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:43 pm

by talltales

Only reason the "debate" over TRP brakes continue is the continued effort to deny, deminish and explain away my claim. Its either user fail, I didnt get the proper cables, pads ect. or I should have know better .. Which is it? - all of it? :-)

All I ever said was, the disc brakes on my bike doesnt work well and you all seen to have a collective brain aneurysm in response. Its quite funny, if a little sad too.
Last edited by talltales on Sun Nov 03, 2019 5:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

TobinHatesYou
Posts: 4837
Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm

by TobinHatesYou

My experience at Olive Garden was nasty therefore Italian food must suck in general.

maxxevv
Posts: 2010
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:51 am

by maxxevv

Get some hybrid hydraulics. I would highly recommend the JuinTech calipers if you wish to keep the cable route while running discs. Be it for convenience or cost factors.

talltales
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:43 pm

by talltales

TobinHatesYou wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 5:38 am
talltales wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 5:01 am
There you go. Finally admitting to all the fuss and expense. Im already aware of all of it. Sadly out of necessity. Imo it should work right out the box to warrant the "discs are great" claim. Instead its like $ 250-300 to fix both bikes with the suggested supplys. - Provided I can get the parts online and fix it my self. Else a lot more at the LBS.

and please stop acting like rim brakes are equally finicky. They are not. Stock, inexpensive shimano parts work just fine.

It's not fuss, it's seeking the marginal gains to make the Spyres the best they could be, to approach the effortless lever action of a hydro set-up. Switching rotors would be analogous to switching to different wheels with better braketracks (unless you want to claim they're all equal.) Swapping pads, well a lot of rim-brake users do this already...plus you may be forced to if your various wheelsets come from different brands or even the same brand, but older version (see ENVE gray vs black pads.) Cable housing, compressionless housing makes both rim and disc braking better, does it not? Some rear rim-brake cable runs have naughty kinks in them in stock configuration which makes the lever feel incredibly mushy. Do you agree? The same applies to some cabled disc brakes. The 2017 Synapse Disc was a good example of this.

So what do you do if you're on rim-brake carbon clinchers on a steep alpine descent and stuck behind a car? I'll tell you what dvq did when we got in this situation and he was still on his rim-brake bike. He suggested we pull over for about 5 minutes and let the car build up a huge gap. Not sure if it was the same ride, but his old ENVEs eventually started pulsing as a section of the braketrack delaminated. Thankfully ENVE warrantied his wheels with 30K miles on them.

TL;DR Spyres work just fine in stock form, about on par with any cabled rim-brake technology.
Stop. There is no "marginal" here. The TRPs are terrible in the setup they came in on my bikes. Sure you can make it better, but then again, no bike arrives stock with link cable, swissstop ect.

Lots of rim brake bikes arrive with no name garbage calipers too, but no one claim such bikes are great og have a fit when some one complain about it.

talltales
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:43 pm

by talltales

maxxevv wrote:
Sun Nov 03, 2019 5:45 am
Get some hybrid hydraulics. I would highly recommend the JuinTech calipers if you wish to keep the cable route while running discs. Be it for convenience or cost factors.
I was thinking about getting the Giant hybrid system, but JuinTech seem like a great option too.

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

Enough.

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