Advice for Cannondale SuperSix Evo HM 2020 build

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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alexneumuller
Posts: 146
Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 10:45 am
Location: Munich, Germany

by alexneumuller

Am building up a Cannondale Super Six Evo HM Disc 2020 in Size 56. Starting from a clean slate with custom paint being done later this month as the current paint options on any of the builds are not appealing to me.

So currently I m this far on purchases
Frame: SuperSix Evo HM Disc 2020
Wheels: DT Swiss PRC 1100 DICUT 25Y Edition wheels Thru-Axle
Thru-Axle: Robert Axle Project Mavic Thru-Axle
Tires: Vitoria Corsa Graphene 2.0 28mm tires
Pedals: Shimano Dura Ace 9100 Pedals

So am looking on some advice in regards to cockpit choices and groupset.....I m not looking for super lightweight in component choices, but not heavy either. So going towards ww components, but usuable for everyday use. And keeping mind my weight of 86kg and tendency to not see potholes. I love the Enve Aero bar as simply because their flared sides are perfect for me, especially in descending, they just feel solid.

But groupset wise I m unsure. Lightweight would be great, does not have to be electronic gears, but no campagnola, as not compatible with my other bikes. And ignoring any price limitations.

So please give some advice. :)
--------
Parlee Z-Zero Disc
Cannondale System Six
Speedvagen 2017
Cielo Road Racer
Felt IAFRD
Cervelo P5 Disc
Open New UP 2017

Stinner Frameworks Ti
IF Crown Jewel TI
Opencycle O-1.0
Canyon Inflite 9.0 2015

Specialized S-Works Tarmac Sl6

bet1216
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Jul 18, 2019 10:52 pm

by bet1216

I've been looking into this myself. Do you want to keep with the aero concepts on the cockpit? I have been looking at the Enve Aero bars or the Zipp SL-70 Aero bars. Stem wise the Enve Aero stem or the Zipp SL speed stem (not an aero stem for sure but I hang a computer out in front I'm not sure it matters). If you want to keep with the spirit of Cannondale then there are numerous 1 piece bar/stems (but most have a weight penalty).

Groupset wise, if you want to take advantage of the internal cable then electronic is the way to go, otherwise cables are stick out before they go into the downtube. Personally if you got the disc HM frame then you should have everything internal. So, Sram Red vs. Shimano Dura Ace becomes the question in my opinion. I have Red etap on TT bike and just put it on a first generation Evo frame. I will be honest I lean towards the Di2 (had it on a prior TT bike). The Di2 responds and shifts faster and it had much better front derailleur shifting (you could be mashing the pedals and get to shift from the small to the big...with etap you have to be diligent to not have too much power being applied). Lastly Di2 is much more forgiving of cross chaining...etap is really noisy...and I am guilty of cross chaining in the big ring. That said...Sram have revised the derailleurs (the front especially) and it is supposed to be far superior to the version I have. I don't have any experience with Sram AXS.

What about crankset? I think the Cannondale Hollowgram SiSl2 is the way to go. It's designed for the BB and doesn't require any adaptors. Its light and stiff. The spider rings are great but if you want a crank based PM then you can't use them. I have use Power2Max both with hollowgrams and Rotor cranks on Cannondale BB30. The hollowgrams are a much more elegant solution IMO. I have Rotor 3D+ on my Evo right now because I was using some shorter cranks...but I'm putting the Hollowgrams back on. If you use crank based PM then you will have to decide on rings.

BB and Headset?

by Weenie


Hexsense
Posts: 897
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am

by Hexsense

You can now purchase the Hi-mod frameset?

-latex tube
-Pick the stem you like the look most. Good looking stem increase you watts. :P
- Pro Vibe Stem -10 or -17 degree,
- Enve Aero road stem (-7, -12 or -17 degree angle adjustable)
- Specialized Venge Stem (-6 or -12), this will hide your cable a bit better than any option above. It is also stiffest and heaviest option here. It's almost double the weight of some light weight stem.
- Zipp SL-Sprint (-12), if you want stem almost as stiff as Venge stem but weight a tiny bit less.
- Deda superzero stem (-8) aero shaped-ish.
-- ultra light weight stems aren't listed here, as some of those have questionable stiffness.

SISL2 and Spidering + dura-ace pedals means the power meter have to be in the hub? But there can be a durability problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiOUr8xAzgQ
Maybe Stages left arm but that's also not so reliable.

If SISL2 is too expensive, then take a look at Sram Red BB30 crankset.
I'd pick Favero Assioma Pedals (instead of Dura-ace) as the best place to put power meter on with least compromise (mostly in extra stack height).
Any spider-based power meter will grant you more weight than Assioma pedals (which weight about as much as 105 pedals).

User avatar
alexneumuller
Posts: 146
Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 10:45 am
Location: Munich, Germany

by alexneumuller

No I m purchasing a full bike, and stripping it. As far as I m aware frame only as Hi-Mod not yet available.

Latex Tube most likely, and I m tempted to stay with the Enve Aero Stem and Aero Bar.

what about an SRM powermeter with an SISL2?




Hexsense wrote:
Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:41 pm
You can now purchase the Hi-mod frameset?

-latex tube
-Pick the stem you like the look most. Good looking stem increase you watts. :P
- Pro Vibe Stem -10 or -17 degree,
- Enve Aero road stem (-7, -12 or -17 degree angle adjustable)
- Specialized Venge Stem (-6 or -12), this will hide your cable a bit better than any option above. It is also stiffest and heaviest option here. It's almost double the weight of some light weight stem.
- Zipp SL-Sprint (-12), if you want stem almost as stiff as Venge stem but weight a tiny bit less.
- Deda superzero stem (-8) aero shaped-ish.
-- ultra light weight stems aren't listed here, as some of those have questionable stiffness.

SISL2 and Spidering + dura-ace pedals means the power meter have to be in the hub? But there can be a durability problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiOUr8xAzgQ
Maybe Stages left arm but that's also not so reliable.

If SISL2 is too expensive, then take a look at Sram Red BB30 crankset.
I'd pick Favero Assioma Pedals (instead of Dura-ace) as the best place to put power meter on with least compromise (mostly in extra stack height).
Any spider-based power meter will grant you more weight than Assioma pedals (which weight about as much as 105 pedals).
--------
Parlee Z-Zero Disc
Cannondale System Six
Speedvagen 2017
Cielo Road Racer
Felt IAFRD
Cervelo P5 Disc
Open New UP 2017

Stinner Frameworks Ti
IF Crown Jewel TI
Opencycle O-1.0
Canyon Inflite 9.0 2015

Specialized S-Works Tarmac Sl6

romanmoser
Posts: 309
Joined: Sun May 06, 2018 8:30 pm

by romanmoser

Srm are nice and have rarely issues in my experince at least
Ng , ng eco from power2max too

Quarq meeeh
Stages meeeh

Hexsense
Posts: 897
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2015 12:41 am

by Hexsense

If you go SRM, you might as well consider their SRM Origin (their carbon crank).
It weight only 6 grams more, but with much better versatility in
-crank length adjustment: Their shim can adjust the length between 170,172.5 and 175mm
-frame compatibility. Unlike SISL, the srm origin's spindle is long in both 24mm and 30mm version, and will fit on bb86, bb386 and any frame you want to use it in the future.

They are really expensive though. I think Power2max price their product much better.

by Weenie


floriansantana
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:57 pm

by floriansantana

I built a standard mod SuperSix Evo Disc 2020 myself. If you want to go sub 7 kilos for the whole bike, I'd go for Sram Red Etap HRD 11 speed for the groupset. You can get nice deals online for the upgrade kit. Then use Rotor 3D+ for the crankset or Cannondale SISL2 if you want to go super light (weight difference of about 150g), a SRAM cassette and a Sram chain.
I'd go for Tubolito S-Tubo tubes, I love them and they have been flawless for me.
Cockpit wise I'd go for a two piece setup with a light bar and stem combo. I'd suggest that you use a handlebar with internal routing, because it makes the front end cleaner if the brake hoses run out of the bar right at the stem and then inside the headtube hole. If you need spacers below the stem, I'd use the topcap that comes with the frame and normal round spacers above if you need any. The spacers that come with the frame are very bulky and look massive.

My standard mod size 56 weighs 7,35 kilos with Rotor 3D+ without PM, Hunt 50 Carbon Aero wheels, tubolitos and Corsas and SRAM Red Etap 11-speed HRD, FSA bars and stem and the alloy seat post. So if you substract 200g for the Hi Mod frame and fork, 100 g for the carbon seat post, you'll be around 7 kilos with that setup. If you use the Cannondale cranks that cuts another 150g.

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