So I just bought a new Trek Emonda ALR disc (that I'll slowly put on a diet) and want to fit some new tires on it, since it comes with crap heavy wire bead tires.
On my previous bike, I was running Vittoria Rubino Pro III tires, which I liked for their somewhat supple feel and good puncture protection. That said, I'd like to upgrade to something faster like the gp5000. My only worry is that light and fast tires such as those will increase my risk of eating asphalt because of a severe puncture or blowout.
Is this a legitimate concern?
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Are faster and lighter tires more dangerous?
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RocketRacing
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I am doing fine on gp5000’s. Just did a high speed hop onto gravel for 30s or so as a big dumptruck honked at me. I was not sure why but oped to risk the side of the road in case it was a “get the f$&k out of my way i will take you out” honk. The tires were fine.
And that means nothing scientifically.
The issue with fast tires is that it is mostly a result of making them more supple. And to do that, that means thinner. That is why most fast tires are lighter also (that is you paper thin corsa speeds). Thats not the whole story... but it is a good rule of thumb. There may be pixie dust marketed (g2.0, black chilli), but there is no free lunch. Fast tires are thin, and thin tires are prone to puncture.
Now, a 1.2mm thick tire will likely be more prone to puncture than a 3mm thich tire. But pop quiz... if the 3mm tire is warn to 1.2mm... guess what puncture risks will be like? So long story short, if you have thinner tires, preventative replacement will be ideal to minimize puncture risks. In other words, your thinner tires will get very expensive if they last 1/3rd the milage.
And that means nothing scientifically.
The issue with fast tires is that it is mostly a result of making them more supple. And to do that, that means thinner. That is why most fast tires are lighter also (that is you paper thin corsa speeds). Thats not the whole story... but it is a good rule of thumb. There may be pixie dust marketed (g2.0, black chilli), but there is no free lunch. Fast tires are thin, and thin tires are prone to puncture.
Now, a 1.2mm thick tire will likely be more prone to puncture than a 3mm thich tire. But pop quiz... if the 3mm tire is warn to 1.2mm... guess what puncture risks will be like? So long story short, if you have thinner tires, preventative replacement will be ideal to minimize puncture risks. In other words, your thinner tires will get very expensive if they last 1/3rd the milage.
Yes.
Light weight tires are more prone to damage, but they are not going to explode on you. At the same time they usally have more grip, whice could save you from a crash. Most manifatures have a toughter version of there race tire too. If you never inspect your equipment and just want to ride until it wears out, get some gater skins. That's what is on my wifes bike. She doesn't want to deal with flats and dosn't care about speed.
Light weight tires are more prone to damage, but they are not going to explode on you. At the same time they usally have more grip, whice could save you from a crash. Most manifatures have a toughter version of there race tire too. If you never inspect your equipment and just want to ride until it wears out, get some gater skins. That's what is on my wifes bike. She doesn't want to deal with flats and dosn't care about speed.
I've been riding Grand Prix 4000s since they came out, and Grand Prix 3000s before that, and the original Grand Prix before that. They aren't going to be dangerous. Grand Prix tires are pretty stout compared to some of the paper thin race tires out there.
I've ridden gp5000 tires now for 500km and have to say that I haven't had any problems. Because they are expensive I check them every 100km or so. I don't want any crap stuck in them.
You're not going to get rubino pro iii life out of them. The rubinos are amazing at that and puncture protection.
Gp5000 will seem very good until they start to wear is my guess. Then protection will start to deteriorate.
For anyone running gp5000 I recommend light inner tubes. That way you optimize the rr.
You're not going to get rubino pro iii life out of them. The rubinos are amazing at that and puncture protection.
Gp5000 will seem very good until they start to wear is my guess. Then protection will start to deteriorate.
For anyone running gp5000 I recommend light inner tubes. That way you optimize the rr.
Check this link out for an endurance test update from rolling resistance.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... rance-test
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... rance-test
I'd be more concern with dangerous of tire with poor grip (like GatorSkinzzz) than dangerous of getting flat.
Flat tire normally don't result in a crash, but losing grip give a very high chance of falling.
For flat tire, there are three main kind of flat:
-pinch flat: higher pressure or taller tire help.
-puncture flat: lower rider weight and lower pressure help. Lower pressure reduce casing tension and make it conform better to sharp object rather than let it dig through the tire.
On my group, Gatorskin user that pump tire to 100psi get more puncture than GP4000sII at 70psi.
-cut, side wall damage: look at what you are rolling on! (well, some set-up have really problematic side wall though).
Flat tire normally don't result in a crash, but losing grip give a very high chance of falling.
For flat tire, there are three main kind of flat:
-pinch flat: higher pressure or taller tire help.
-puncture flat: lower rider weight and lower pressure help. Lower pressure reduce casing tension and make it conform better to sharp object rather than let it dig through the tire.
On my group, Gatorskin user that pump tire to 100psi get more puncture than GP4000sII at 70psi.
-cut, side wall damage: look at what you are rolling on! (well, some set-up have really problematic side wall though).
