Where to drop weight?

[dudemanppl]

OK so then just buy a bunch of expensive components and leave 200-300g of economical weight savings on the table because it's just 'intellectual masturbation'. Seriously you recommend slightly lighter bar tape but sniff at ti bolts? Then you recommend ti axles on your pedals?

Not sure what you're talking about? Lighter bar tape will be $15 for a 50g saving if not more. That literally is the most economical of all mods you can do. Ti bolts for a disc bike (assuming hes not using 6 bolt hubs) should be ~25g saving at most at a price of probably $25 (6 stem bolts, 4 caliper mounting bolts, 1 seatpost clamp bolt).

[Lewn777]

OK so then just buy a bunch of expensive components and leave 200-300g of economical weight savings on the table because it's just 'intellectual masturbation'. Seriously you recommend slightly lighter bar tape but sniff at ti bolts? Then you recommend ti axles on your pedals?

Not sure what you're talking about? Lighter bar tape will be $15 for a 50g saving if not more. That literally is the most economical of all mods you can do. Ti bolts for a disc bike (assuming hes not using 6 bolt hubs) should be ~25g saving at most at a price of probably $25 (6 stem bolts, 4 caliper mounting bolts, 1 seatpost clamp bolt).

50g saving for bar tape? That's what light bar tape weighs incl plugs not a saving unless you run the nastiest cheapest OEM tape imaginable, but it';s a consumable so not a big deal.

If you think about where ti bolts can be used you can see how much weight saving there is potentially. However this totally depends on your bike. Seat post bolts, cleat bolts and hardware (if Shimano) stem bolts, rim brake kits, caliper mounting bolts, brake lever mounting bolts and collar, plug bolt etc. What's better is the functionality is as good as steel and they can be resued on other bikes. A near permanent saving not some temporary saving with a consumables like tires, tubes, bar tape. Also not some dodgy saving like wobbly lightweight aftermarket ti skewers, fork header compromising lightweight header plug, lightweight poor durability cassettes and chains etc. I took 30g off each of my Shimano 9100 calipers with Ti kits. Fit, forget and save.

What you are forgetting is with most weight saving comes a compromise in comfort, durability or functionality. That's why ti bolts and better wheels are always winners as they compromise nothing.

[tabl10s]

Just got a new bike: 2018 C'Dale Supersix HM Dura Ace

Size 50 SS HM Frame
Dura Ace 9100 groupset w/ Ultrgra cassette + HG701 Chain
Hollowgram Si + OPI Spider Rings

Hollowgram Si Disc Carbon Clincers 35mm
Vittoria Corsa G+ 25mm (w/ stock tubes)

Fizik Antares R5 Saddle
OEM Cannondale "Ultralight" components

Generic 23g Carbon cages

Look Keo Blade Carbon pedals from 5 years ago off old bike
S-Works Shoes

I weigh 160lbs. Where would you start shaving without sacrificing performance?

You. <-- being both serious and tongue-in-cheek at the same time.

i mean yea, we can all drop weight to weigh 95lbs. Should we just change this forum to a soyboy forum? Lets talk bike parts...

Soy produces Estrogen which cuts down testosterone. This would a hairless forum.

[skyliner1004]

Titanium bolts will save grams. Not worth it. But it may be worth the intellectual masterbation fun.

ashima ai rotors
Deda or Tessa bar tape. Dont tape the tops
Darimo ellipse bars. Something aero if all rou d performance is priority.
Wren stem if on budget, darimo if not
Cane creek aer headset
Extralite or tune gum headset expander
Extralite through axles (tririg if it is quick release)
Wheels. Dont go tubular as the better crr of the best clinchers/tubless will outweigh any weight savings of tubular. (I assume you want the fastest bike, not just light).
Aero wheels while you are at it. They are about 8% of total system/rider drag.
Pedals are personal, but i have the xpedo something or other with the titanium spindles. 160g a pair or so
Dura ace across the board, but ee brakes if you want light, tririg if you want fast. Dura ace if it is a disc brake bike
Thm cranks if you piss money
Bottom brackets are not worth going light... just go dura ace.
Berk saddle if it suits You.
Darimo post.
Carbonworks cages and elite superfly bottles, or elite crono setup if you care about speed

Thanks for the tips!

Picked up the Deda Traforato tape to replace the super comfy stock tape that came on my SS. Anyone know who's the OEM for that btw?
Also picked up 2x Conti Supersonics, although i'm still currently on the heavy Vitoria Corsa G+ (2016/2017 model Corsa). Would u guys replace this with a 23mm or 25mm GP4000/5000?
My 2x china amazon carbon cages came today PERGEAR Emgreat Black Carbon Fiber Lightweight Bicycle Water Bottle Cage for Cycling - Pack of 2- claimed weight of 23g/each

My stock wheelset is advertised @ 1446g, pretty good if you ask me, for something that comes with the bike, 35mm, full carbon, disc brake
My stock brakes are already DA disc

[RocketRacing]

OK so then just buy a bunch of expensive components and leave 200-300g of economical weight savings on the table because it's just 'intellectual masturbation'. Seriously you recommend slightly lighter bar tape but sniff at ti bolts? Then you recommend ti axles on your pedals?

Ok, my bad. I take it back. We are weight weenies.

But please, let me know how you saved 200-300g on bolts? You using lead currently? My bike came with aluminum bottle cage bolts (lighter than titanium.). The darimo seat clamp has a titanium bolt. I think my titanium top cap bolt saved a couple grams (i originally went aluminum, but what a pain.). Wren stem bolts are pretty damn light. Good luck getting more than a gram or two out of them (they may be titanium, i forget). My etap hood bolts are aluminum. Ee brakes are pretty light as is. Those are the only bolts on my bike.

What... maybe 10g? 6 bolt will save another 6g -12g or so... If you are coming from a low end groupset But if you are coming from dura ace they are all titanium anyway. So a few grams max. I stand by my mental masturbation statement.

Yeah... i said titanium axles. Mainly because vs cro molly spindles they will be worth the weight savings of multiple bikes worth of titanium bolt upgrades. Some china stuff is apparently pretty good too, and a 20-40$ swap.

I removed my hood covers, all bar tape, and put target padding only at key pressure points, then wrapped the hoods and bars with tessa tape. I saved 85g!!! Tessa tape was 3$. Doing a clean job on the hoods takes time, but it looks sick, and was 18g total!!! Hell, with the darimo bars it is also comfortable.

[RocketRacing]

You can replace everything except for the frameset, shifters and derailleur(s). And strip the paint. See my signature for an example.

Only think original on my bike is the frame and fork. I am thinking about swapping that too. Hahahha

[RocketRacing]

Thanks for the tips!

Picked up the Deda Traforato tape to replace the super comfy stock tape that came on my SS. Anyone know who's the OEM for that btw?
Also picked up 2x Conti Supersonics, although i'm still currently on the heavy Vitoria Corsa G+ (2016/2017 model Corsa). Would u guys replace this with a 23mm or 25mm GP4000/5000?
My 2x china amazon carbon cages came today PERGEAR Emgreat Black Carbon Fiber Lightweight Bicycle Water Bottle Cage for Cycling - Pack of 2- claimed weight of 23g/each

My stock wheelset is advertised @ 1446g, pretty good if you ask me, for something that comes with the bike, 35mm, full carbon, disc brake
My stock brakes are already DA disc

Those wheels are a decient weight. Mine are about 50g heavier, but are a 56mm deep, 28mm wide aero profile. . Yeah, i just flexed.

Regarding the tires... low crr is your best performance per buck on any bike aside from rider position. Just don’t fly too close to the sun for a daily rider (that means you corsa speeds). The gp5000 seems to be a no-brainer to me. 4000’s are more aero, but the performance is about a wash when you throw in crr. Thus, get the 5000 because low crr will help more in climbs... and that better be why you are building a light bike... cause that is the only logical reason to do so.

23 vs 25 depends on the front rim (run as wide as you wish on the back... it does not matter aerodynamically). If they are aero profile, follow the rule of 105 (which means 23c tires in most cases, as they will measure big, and stretch in time to near 25mm anyway). My 25c 5000’s measured 25 on 17.5id rims fresh, but they are near 26mm now after maybe 500kms. I will replace the front with 23c as i am light, and like to go fast.

If your rims are not an aero profile (at 35mm any aero profile would be minimal anyway) than just run 25c.

For your weight, 23 or 25c will be fine. You won’t need to run stratospheric pressures for 23c. All this 28c+ hype only makes sense for the worst of cobbles/roads at the highest of speeds, and if you love comfort and high Crr, and dislike aero.

And finally, i am pretty sure dura ace brakes come with titanium bolts (my xtr disc brake setups do). If you can find lighter titanium bolts, i would question how identical sized titanium bolts are lighter. Shimano makes great stuff... even if a bit overbuilt. Something has to give to get one titanium bolt lighter than another. Sometimes it is only head size, but be mindful of compromises from hollow bolts, or smaller heads. It may be lower density titanium (softer) and shearing, stretching threads, and rounding tops may be a factor. Tis the life of a weight weenie.

If you are hardcore, and have 6 bolt rotors, you can do the racer thing and remove every second bolt, maybe replace them with aluminum.

[skyliner1004]

Thanks for the tips!

Picked up the Deda Traforato tape to replace the super comfy stock tape that came on my SS. Anyone know who's the OEM for that btw?
Also picked up 2x Conti Supersonics, although i'm still currently on the heavy Vitoria Corsa G+ (2016/2017 model Corsa). Would u guys replace this with a 23mm or 25mm GP4000/5000?
My 2x china amazon carbon cages came today PERGEAR Emgreat Black Carbon Fiber Lightweight Bicycle Water Bottle Cage for Cycling - Pack of 2- claimed weight of 23g/each

My stock wheelset is advertised @ 1446g, pretty good if you ask me, for something that comes with the bike, 35mm, full carbon, disc brake
My stock brakes are already DA disc

Those wheels are a decient weight. Mine are about 50g heavier, but are a 56mm deep, 28mm wide aero profile. . Yeah, i just flexed.

Regarding the tires... low crr is your best performance per buck on any bike aside from rider position. Just don’t fly too close to the sun for a daily rider (that means you corsa speeds). The gp5000 seems to be a no-brainer to me. 4000’s are more aero, but the performance is about a wash when you throw in crr. Thus, get the 5000 because low crr will help more in climbs... and that better be why you are building a light bike... cause that is the only logical reason to do so.

23 vs 25 depends on the front rim (run as wide as you wish on the back... it does not matter aerodynamically). If they are aero profile, follow the rule of 105 (which means 23c tires in most cases, as they will measure big, and stretch in time to near 25mm anyway). My 25c 5000’s measured 25 on 17.5id rims fresh, but they are near 26mm now after maybe 500kms. I will replace the front with 23c as i am light, and like to go fast.

If your rims are not an aero profile (at 35mm any aero profile would be minimal anyway) than just run 25c.

For your weight, 23 or 25c will be fine. You won’t need to run stratospheric pressures for 23c. All this 28c+ hype only makes sense for the worst of cobbles/roads at the highest of speeds, and if you love comfort and high Crr, and dislike aero.

And finally, i am pretty sure dura ace brakes come with titanium bolts (my xtr disc brake setups do). If you can find lighter titanium bolts, i would question how identical sized titanium bolts are lighter. Shimano makes great stuff... even if a bit overbuilt. Something has to give to get one titanium bolt lighter than another. Sometimes it is only head size, but be mindful of compromises from hollow bolts, or smaller heads. It maybe lower density titanium (softer) and shearing, stretching threads, and rounding tops may be a factor. Tis the life of a weight weenie.

If tou are hardcore, and have 6 bolt rotors, you can do the racer thing and remove every second bolt, maybe replace them with aluminum.

Thanks, i'll keep an eye out on a deal for gp5000s. at my weight, is 23/25 going to be the same speed (+weight penalty) I've heard nothing but good things about the Corsas, so i'm just riding them out for a bit more since they're brand new and i dont plan to sell them.

I don't plan to change bolts to save weight, not worth the 20-30 grams saved for every bolt on the whole bike. My rotors are centerlock.

edit: actually, just found a deal on 2x GP5000 25mm + 2 Conti Race tubes for $85.xx shipped. Should be here in 1-2 weeks.

[RocketRacing]

Thanks, i'll keep an eye out on a deal for gp5000s. at my weight, is 23/25 going to be the same speed (+weight penalty) I've heard nothing but good things about the Corsas, so i'm just riding them out for a bit more since they're brand new and i dont plan to sell them.

I don't plan to change bolts to save weight, not worth the 20-30 grams saved for every bolt on the whole bike. My rotors are centerlock.

Note that i said corsa speeds. They have no puncture strip and are just a bit fragile. they are fast because they are so thin... there is no free lunch.

I still think 20-30g is optamistic unless you have an entry level bike. Dura ace... maybe 10g. I got the lightest bolts i could find for my xtr... and it made near zero weight difference. I stuck with the xtr stuff.

[skyliner1004]

GP5000s coming today to be installed w/ Supersonics.
Already have Deda tape, but figured i may as well upgrade the stock handlebar since people say cannondale's OEM stuff is stupid heavy.
Got a great deal on the 3T Ernova Team Stealth Carbon handlebar which should be an upgrade in terms of comfort, looks, and weight all at once.

[RocketRacing]

GP5000s coming today to be installed w/ Supersonics.
Already have Deda tape, but figured i may as well upgrade the stock handlebar since people say cannondale's OEM stuff is stupid heavy.
Got a great deal on the 3T Ernova Team Stealth Carbon handlebar which should be an upgrade in terms of comfort, looks, and weight all at once.

Mine in 40cm weighed 216g

[Zero7]

Not trying to be a jerk.

160 lbs and riding a 50...might want to start there. How tall are you? around 5’6”

I’m 5’7.” 140 lbs riding a 52 and by no means skin and bones

[TonyM]

Not trying to be a jerk.

160 lbs and riding a 50...might want to start there. How tall are you? around 5’6”

I’m 5’7.” 140 lbs riding a 52 and by no means skin and bones

Not sure I get your point....Can you elaborate on this?

[sychen]

Not trying to be a jerk.

160 lbs and riding a 50...might want to start there. How tall are you? around 5’6”

I’m 5’7.” 140 lbs riding a 52 and by no means skin and bones

Not sure I get your point....Can you elaborate on this?

I'm that weight and height.. Yes I'm need to lose some weight. That's what he's saying to op.

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[Zero7]

Not trying to be a jerk.

160 lbs and riding a 50...might want to start there. How tall are you? around 5’6”

I’m 5’7.” 140 lbs riding a 52 and by no means skin and bones

Not sure I get your point....Can you elaborate on this?

OP asked where to drop weight.
He weighs 160 and rides a 50.
Clearly he can afford to slim down some.

The weight of my main 2 bikes are 14.2 lbs and 18.3 lbs. I can barely tell a difference in the bikes unless it’s ALL hills. And if it’s an all flat ride the 18 lb bike is faster because it’s more aero than the 14 lb bike.

I bet if I strapped a 25 lb weight to myself it would make a huge difference though.