Where to drop weight?

[skyliner1004]

put on about 500 miles on the bike so far in 25-40 mile rides a few times a week (riding 50+ miles alone during the weekday is boring) , weekends dont allow me the 2-3hrs to do 50+ mile rides with people.

anyway, been getting some ball and toe numbness. def not getting the circulation to my cock n balls, and also getting the tingling/hot feeling in my toes in my 2010 S works shoes that i've been using for almost 10 years. So i just placed an order for the Fizik Antares R1 Versus Evo (regular size) to drop ~30g and get a little bit of relief due to the cutout down the center of the saddle. It'll be replacing a 200g Antares R5 w/ Kium rails that came stock.

[PrimO]

Dura Ace cassette and chain will save you 80g over Ultegra items.
Depending on what bar tape is on your bike you could save 30-50g with a lightweight tape.
Latex tubes will save approx 60g over butyl tubes.

Saddle - depends on what came on the bike and what you normally use.

[skyliner1004]

Dura Ace cassette and chain will save you 80g over Ultegra items.
Depending on what bar tape is on your bike you could save 30-50g with a lightweight tape.
Latex tubes will save approx 60g over butyl tubes.

Saddle - depends on what came on the bike and what you normally use.

great suggestions, i look to go dura ace cassette and chain soon, waiting for these to wear out a bit first so i feel a bit better about upgrading. (nobody really wants to buy a used cassette and chain)

i'm currently using Deda Traforato tape @ 36g

I'm currently on a Fizik Antares R5 @ 200g

Coincidently, today i'm recieving the Antares R1 Versus Evo w/ carbon rails (7x9 oval), can anyone help and let me know if my OEM "cannondale carbon save 25.4" seatpost with "top - down) clamping will work with these oval carbon rails? The seatpost says Torque 8NM, which i have a torque wrench to set to.

[Lewn777]

If you use common sense you can see that there are three kinds of weight saving:
1. Highly consumable parts eg.Bar-tape, tubes, tires, chains, brake pads, cables. approx 3000 or more kms.
2. Medium consumable parts: eg.Cassettes, jockey wheels, BB bearings, wheel bearings, chain rings, rims, brake rotors, pedals, steerer bearings, cable housings. approx 10,000-20,000kms
3. Long term consumable/non consumable parts: eg.Forks, frames, seat posts, saddles, bolts, stems, handlebars, bottle cages. approx 20,000kms or more.

Sure, you can save a lot of weight with highly consumable parts, but really the best 'bang for the buck' long term is to spend money on long term consumable/non consumable parts as these are parts you will have for far longer making them a hidden winner in the cost-per-gram stakes.

[skyliner1004]

If you use common sense you can see that there are three kinds of weight saving:
1. Highly consumable parts eg.Bar-tape, tubes, tires, chains, brake pads, cables. approx 3000 or more kms.
2. Medium consumable parts: eg.Cassettes, jockey wheels, BB bearings, wheel bearings, chain rings, rims, brake rotors, pedals, steerer bearings, cable housings. approx 10,000-20,000kms
3. Long term consumable/non consumable parts: eg.Forks, frames, seat posts, saddles, bolts, stems, handlebars, bottle cages. approx 20,000kms or more.

Sure, you can save a lot of weight with highly consumable parts, but really the best 'bang for the buck' long term is to spend money on long term consumable/non consumable parts as these are parts you will have for far longer making them a hidden winner in the cost-per-gram stakes.

yea def great points that i never really thought about. Is the 2018 Supersix HM frame + Fork considered pretty lightweight by today's standard? I'm coming from a 2010 Look 566 frameset in size 51, this is a size 50.

Long Term:
I've already "upgraded" to a 175g saddle from a 200g Antares R5. My seatpost i cut to weigh 160g (stock carbon 25.4 Save seatpost), Handlebar i've upgraded to a 198g 3T Ernova Carbon Team (from stock aluminum 236g handlebar)

Med Term:
this is where i seem to want to put more wear on the items before upgrading since they're way more costly just to upgrade purely to save weight. Cost/g very high in this list. Most recently, not an upgrade, but i did replace a 2012 Look Keo Blade Carbon Ti (12nm) w/ a 2018 model (20nm). weight nearly identical, but higher torque.

I knew going into getting this bike that a disc brake setup is going to add a bunch of weight compared to rim brakes. Anyone know how much my 160 + 140 dura ace rotors weigh? I know they're good stuff, are they worth replacing since i have less than a 1000 miles on them?

[Lewn777]

Is the 2018 Supersix HM frame + Fork considered pretty lightweight by today's standard? I'm coming from a 2010 Look 566 frameset in size 51, this is a size 50.

A supersix is a great frameset certainly in terms of geo. I've ridden a CAAD12 and loved it. The HM must be pretty light by modern industry standards.

Long Term:
I've already "upgraded" to a 175g saddle from a 200g Antares R5. My seatpost i cut to weigh 160g (stock carbon 25.4 Save seatpost), Handlebar i've upgraded to a 198g 3T Ernova Carbon Team (from stock aluminum 236g handlebar)

Good stuff, how about titanium and alloy bolts? You don't save that much per bolt but it certainly adds up. Especially if you think outside the box. Lots of people complain that just changing bottle cage bolts and stem bolts saves almost nothing. That's totally true, but there are far more bolts on bicycle than that, think anout things like the cassette ring, cleat bolts, seat post bolts etc.

Med Term:
this is where i seem to want to put more wear on the items before upgrading since they're way more costly just to upgrade purely to save weight. Cost/g very high in this list. Most recently, not an upgrade, but i did replace a 2012 Look Keo Blade Carbon Ti (12nm) w/ a 2018 model (20nm). weight nearly identical, but higher torque.

Yeah, this is where I tend to wear out stuff and then upgrade to something better later. I like Dura Ace pedals, sometimes having something heavier isn't so bad if you appricate the functionality.

I knew going into getting this bike that a disc brake setup is going to add a bunch of weight compared to rim brakes. Anyone know how much my 160 + 140 dura ace rotors weigh? I know they're good stuff, are they worth replacing since i have less than a 1000 miles on them?

You want Dura-Ace rotors? I might get flamed for this but I dislike Shimano brake rotors, they're heavy and don't seem to dissipate the heat that well, I prefer SRAM rotors, even on Shimano calipers. I think Shimano make the best brakes, but for some reason I'm not a fan of their rotors. It's been a few years since I used Shimano rotors on my MTB, so they could be better these days. Have a look at aftermarket rotors in a true floating design.

[skyliner1004]

Is the 2018 Supersix HM frame + Fork considered pretty lightweight by today's standard? I'm coming from a 2010 Look 566 frameset in size 51, this is a size 50.

A supersix is a great frameset certainly in terms of geo. I've ridden a CAAD12 and loved it. The HM must be pretty light by modern industry standards.

Long Term:
I've already "upgraded" to a 175g saddle from a 200g Antares R5. My seatpost i cut to weigh 160g (stock carbon 25.4 Save seatpost), Handlebar i've upgraded to a 198g 3T Ernova Carbon Team (from stock aluminum 236g handlebar)

Good stuff, how about titanium and alloy bolts? You don't save that much per bolt but it certainly adds up. Especially if you think outside the box. Lots of people complain that just changing bottle cage bolts and stem bolts saves almost nothing. That's totally true, but there are far more bolts on bicycle than that, think anout things like the cassette ring, cleat bolts, seat post bolts etc.

Med Term:
this is where i seem to want to put more wear on the items before upgrading since they're way more costly just to upgrade purely to save weight. Cost/g very high in this list. Most recently, not an upgrade, but i did replace a 2012 Look Keo Blade Carbon Ti (12nm) w/ a 2018 model (20nm). weight nearly identical, but higher torque.

Yeah, this is where I tend to wear out stuff and then upgrade to something better later. I like Dura Ace pedals, sometimes having something heavier isn't so bad if you appricate the functionality.

I knew going into getting this bike that a disc brake setup is going to add a bunch of weight compared to rim brakes. Anyone know how much my 160 + 140 dura ace rotors weigh? I know they're good stuff, are they worth replacing since i have less than a 1000 miles on them?

You want Dura-Ace rotors? I might get flamed for this but I dislike Shimano brake rotors, they're heavy and don't seem to dissipate the heat that well, I prefer SRAM rotors, even on Shimano calipers. I think Shimano make the best brakes, but for some reason I'm not a fan of their rotors. It's been a few years since I used Shimano rotors on my MTB, so they could be better these days. Have a look at aftermarket rotors in a true floating design.

how would i find out which size length / threads bolts i'd need for my stem (6x), bottle cages (4x), seatpost collar (1x)

Also, where can i get a single rear skewer thats made of titanium that i can use on the rear? What size rear skwer would id need? 135x9 QR rear
KCNC MTB Skewers: https://fairwheelbikes.com/kcnc-titaniu ... n-skewers/
Would these fit?

[Lewn777]

What you want to do is get hold of vernier calipers and possibly a metric bolt measurement tool, pull the bolts measure them, and order the same in titanium. Test your current bolts with a magnet to make sure they aren't already aluminium or titanium, especially as many manufacturers supply bikes with alloy bolt cage bolts. Where you'll really save weight is the seat post bolts and cleat bolts rather than stem bolts etc.

I wouldn't bother with most aftermarket skewers, some people swear by them, but I just prefer a OEM titanium skewer like a ST Swiss. That way you have the certainty of a properly designed component with a reasonable weight.

[SalsaLover]

intermittent fasting....

I've dropped almost three disc road bikes with it.... 20 kilo since Feb.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Congratulations

I tried to lose the stubborn last 6 kgs to get my ideal weight for years, in despite of all the sport etc.

Intermittent fasting is like magic, lost 8 and I am keeping it like that

[kafreeman]

intermittent fasting....

I've dropped almost three disc road bikes with it.... 20 kilo since Feb.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Congratulations

I tried to lose the stubborn last 6 kgs to get my ideal weight for years, in despite of all the sport etc.

Intermittent fasting is like magic, lost 8 and I am keeping it like that

It works... down another 7 kg for a total of 27 kg this year. Last time I was this weight was in high school.

The wife is killing it too 36 kg for her this year.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[RocketRacing]

If you use common sense you can see that there are three kinds of weight saving:
1. Highly consumable parts eg.Bar-tape, tubes, tires, chains, brake pads, cables. approx 3000 or more kms.
2. Medium consumable parts: eg.Cassettes, jockey wheels, BB bearings, wheel bearings, chain rings, rims, brake rotors, pedals, steerer bearings, cable housings. approx 10,000-20,000kms
3. Long term consumable/non consumable parts: eg.Forks, frames, seat posts, saddles, bolts, stems, handlebars, bottle cages. approx 20,000kms or more.

Sure, you can save a lot of weight with highly consumable parts, but really the best 'bang for the buck' long term is to spend money on long term consumable/non consumable parts as these are parts you will have for far longer making them a hidden winner in the cost-per-gram stakes.

Very wise advise. Casettes are a great example. You can get really light aluminum or even carbon ones too. You can save a ton of weight... but you will also turn a medium life consumable to highly consumable, and often to a reducton in shift quality, and skyrocketing prices.

Frame, wheels, saddle, seatpost, bars, pedals, groupset, cranks, any bolt you will rarely if ever touch... all great places to lose weight. Chains, chainrings, Casettes.... just factor in the shorter life and higher cost if you plan to go very exotic.

[Kansai]

Titanium bolts will save grams. Not worth it. But it may be worth the intellectual masterbation fun.

ashima ai rotors
Deda or Tessa bar tape. Dont tape the tops
Darimo ellipse bars. Something aero if all rou d performance is priority.
Wren stem if on budget, darimo if not
Cane creek aer headset
Extralite or tune gum headset expander
Extralite through axles (tririg if it is quick release)
Wheels. Dont go tubular as the better crr of the best clinchers/tubless will outweigh any weight savings of tubular. (I assume you want the fastest bike, not just light).
Aero wheels while you are at it. They are about 8% of total system/rider drag.
Pedals are personal, but i have the xpedo something or other with the titanium spindles. 160g a pair or so
Dura ace across the board, but ee brakes if you want light, tririg if you want fast. Dura ace if it is a disc brake bike
Thm cranks if you piss money
Bottom brackets are not worth going light... just go dura ace.
Berk saddle if it suits You.
Darimo post.
Carbonworks cages and elite superfly bottles, or elite crono setup if you care about speed

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