Colnago V3 RS

[hannawald]

To be honest, the black version looks just fantastic when seen in person. way better than it appears on the picture. Maybe even a few grams lighter due to the different painting process... So overall I am still superhappy about it.

I would have waited - that Frozen White is special, although I'm partial to the Frozen Red.

Riding a bike is no fun. Waiting for the bike to arrive, and spending time building it up, setting it up, the anticipation...that's the greatest part of our sport

Got pictures of your black?

Thing is, I never received a certain date about the delivery of the white one. After they promised me that the bike was going to be delivered in two days and then it shifted by 2 months, I had no faith in even end of July. And I have to ride the Haute Route in August, therefore I need some minimum time to get used to the new bike, disc brakes and just the feel. Plus the necessary position/biomechanic adjustments. I could not risk that a bike would not arrive before the race, which would mean I would have to race with a CAAD10 (althought it is a 6.3kg CAAD10...)

Then I also got in contact with Lumar Colors (the guys that paint Sagan's bikes...) and got confirmation that they can do that paint job and the exact same technique, even using two colors to make some sort of fading from white to something else in some areas. Which is very likely that I will do, at the end of the cycling season somewhere around November.

In the picture there is the bike as it arrived. Specs of the pictures are:
Colnago V3Rs - frame size 50
Campagnolo Super Record EPS Disc groupset, 52/36 and 11-32 cassette
Campagnolo Bora Ultra WTO 45 wheelset
Colnago stem and handlebar, 100mm stem
Berk Lupina Saddle
Assioma Duo pedals
Pirelli Race clinchers, 28mm
Silca latex inner tubes with way too long extenders
JRC Components Garmin mount
Stock bottle cage
As it is in the picture, the weight was (without the bidon and the garmin) 7,35kg

Some things have already been changed (thru axles, inner tubes, bottle cages, bolts, lowering the weight to 7,26kg), some other are about to be changed but I want to check with the biomechanic first (confirmation of the stem lenght -> THM or Schmolke; seat tube with or without setback -> Darimo; handlebar to be decided, probably Darimo too). And a second pair of lightweight wheels (Extralite) is being set up as tubeless.

How do you make internal cable routing with Darimo bars and THM stem? Will you ask Darimo for a "DCR style hole" in the bars? Just be careful that if your stem doesn´t lead cables at the very bottom of the stem you wouldn´t be able to get the the red plastic reinforcing bung which you have in the original stem so the tightening bolts on the stem body won´t be properly supported (there are riders riding without it but of course not recommended)

[sgergole]

To be honest, the black version looks just fantastic when seen in person. way better than it appears on the picture. Maybe even a few grams lighter due to the different painting process... So overall I am still superhappy about it.

I would have waited - that Frozen White is special, although I'm partial to the Frozen Red.

Riding a bike is no fun. Waiting for the bike to arrive, and spending time building it up, setting it up, the anticipation...that's the greatest part of our sport

Got pictures of your black?

Thing is, I never received a certain date about the delivery of the white one. After they promised me that the bike was going to be delivered in two days and then it shifted by 2 months, I had no faith in even end of July. And I have to ride the Haute Route in August, therefore I need some minimum time to get used to the new bike, disc brakes and just the feel. Plus the necessary position/biomechanic adjustments. I could not risk that a bike would not arrive before the race, which would mean I would have to race with a CAAD10 (althought it is a 6.3kg CAAD10...)

Then I also got in contact with Lumar Colors (the guys that paint Sagan's bikes...) and got confirmation that they can do that paint job and the exact same technique, even using two colors to make some sort of fading from white to something else in some areas. Which is very likely that I will do, at the end of the cycling season somewhere around November.

In the picture there is the bike as it arrived. Specs of the pictures are:
Colnago V3Rs - frame size 50
Campagnolo Super Record EPS Disc groupset, 52/36 and 11-32 cassette
Campagnolo Bora Ultra WTO 45 wheelset
Colnago stem and handlebar, 100mm stem
Berk Lupina Saddle
Assioma Duo pedals
Pirelli Race clinchers, 28mm
Silca latex inner tubes with way too long extenders
JRC Components Garmin mount
Stock bottle cage
As it is in the picture, the weight was (without the bidon and the garmin) 7,35kg

Some things have already been changed (thru axles, inner tubes, bottle cages, bolts, lowering the weight to 7,26kg), some other are about to be changed but I want to check with the biomechanic first (confirmation of the stem lenght -> THM or Schmolke; seat tube with or without setback -> Darimo; handlebar to be decided, probably Darimo too). And a second pair of lightweight wheels (Extralite) is being set up as tubeless.

How do you make internal cable routing with Darimo bars and THM stem? Will you ask Darimo for a "DCR style hole" in the bars? Just be careful that if your stem doesn´t lead cables at the very bottom of the stem you wouldn´t be able to get the the red plastic reinforcing bung which you have in the original stem so the tightening bolts on the stem body won´t be properly supported (there are riders riding without it but of course not recommended)

My current understanding is that to have the lightest available option, there cannot be fully integrated/hidden cables. The cables will just be very thigthly attached to the handlebar and then slide externally at the bottom of the stem into the front part of the fork to disappear. So, external for about 10 cm.... Same also for other options like the THM Frontale... Cables pass just below the stem.

The way to have completely hidden cables is through a stem/handlebar like the Deda Alanera, which however is quite heavy for my tastes.

[hannawald]

Not sure there is proper hole for routing the cables like this with normal stem. There is an angled hole in the stem spacer but quite small..with Deda Alanera DCR you have the cables inside the stem, not under the stem. Alanera is about 350g with race stiffness, that's why people buy it. Darimo stem is one of the least stiff. You will probably need bars with a hole at the back part to get the cables inside the stem. Like Superzero DCR for example. Darimo may make it custom for you like this..

[sgergole]

The original stem is in fact...a normal stem with a "fake spacer" that acts as a cover, to create the illusion of an integrated combo. I don't see any major problem in making the same with cables that are not hidden by the fake spacer. Rides of Japan did it with the Emonda, I see the same thing in the V3Rs...

Regarding stiffness, I race but I never felt any of the stiffness problem that people like to talk about. I can barely reach 1100-1150w when sprinting, so I dont really care about it. At best, it helps me a bit with the comfort if it is more soft...

The Deda Alanera is a nice solution, but:
1) it is heavier by about 150grams
2) doesn't allow you to have some adjustments on the angle of the handlebar. it is one position, like it or not

[FlatlandClimber]

-> I can't really recommend the Darimo Handlebars. I really didn't like the feel.
-> the best stem I have ever owned is a Extralite Hypestem. It is super light and stiff as hell (one of the best stiffness per weight rating in the market)

-> where was the picture taken?
-> Haute Route, awesome. I just took part in HR Crans Montana, and will be at Dolomites later. Good luck with the Alps, it looks like a beast!

[sgergole]

-> I can't really recommend the Darimo Handlebars. I really didn't like the feel.
-> the best stem I have ever owned is a Extralite Hypestem. It is super light and stiff as hell (one of the best stiffness per weight rating in the market)

-> where was the picture taken?
-> Haute Route, awesome. I just took part in HR Crans Montana, and will be at Dolomites later. Good luck with the Alps, it looks like a beast!

Hm, ok, point taken on the handlebars. Will look for an alternative, probably between the usual names: Schmolke, THM and MCFK. Will see. What would be your suggestion? (keeping in mind that we are weightweenies here...)
I have the extralite on my CAAD, it is solid and light. I just like aesthetically waaaay way more the Schmolke/THM one. Even if it costs twice as much....

The first picture I posted is from Trieste, Italy.
I will also do the Dolomites, right after the Alps. I hope I will survive XD. Would be really nice to get to know you in the Dolomites then!

[milanv]

The original stem is in fact...a normal stem with a "fake spacer" that acts as a cover, to create the illusion of an integrated combo. I don't see any major problem in making the same with cables that are not hidden by the fake spacer. Rides of Japan did it with the Emonda, I see the same thing in the V3Rs...

Regarding stiffness, I race but I never felt any of the stiffness problem that people like to talk about. I can barely reach 1100-1150w when sprinting, so I dont really care about it. At best, it helps me a bit with the comfort if it is more soft...

The Deda Alanera is a nice solution, but:
1) it is heavier by about 150grams
2) doesn't allow you to have some adjustments on the angle of the handlebar. it is one position, like it or not

I agree with you, so I don't know what I will choose for my V3RS, using original SR9 with carbon Zipp handlebars at the moment...

[FlatlandClimber]

-> I can't really recommend the Darimo Handlebars. I really didn't like the feel.
-> the best stem I have ever owned is a Extralite Hypestem. It is super light and stiff as hell (one of the best stiffness per weight rating in the market)

-> where was the picture taken?
-> Haute Route, awesome. I just took part in HR Crans Montana, and will be at Dolomites later. Good luck with the Alps, it looks like a beast!

Hm, ok, point taken on the handlebars. Will look for an alternative, probably between the usual names: Schmolke, THM and MCFK. Will see. What would be your suggestion? (keeping in mind that we are weightweenies here...)
I have the extralite on my CAAD, it is solid and light. I just like aesthetically waaaay way more the Schmolke/THM one. Even if it costs twice as much....

The first picture I posted is from Trieste, Italy.
I will also do the Dolomites, right after the Alps. I hope I will survive XD. Would be really nice to get to know you in the Dolomites then!

Awesome!
Doing Dolomites after Alps is Crazy. Kudos!

The THM Ulna is a fantastic handlebar and I'll go back to it in my Aethos.
The THM stem is ugly and bulky imho.

[BigBoyND]

Since cables go in the front like Trek bikes, have you considered the RSL integrated bar? It's 280-290g and aero. (ignore if already mentioned in this thread)

[wickedstealthy]

Totally new here to this forum

Searching for some answers already a few days and can't find all the info.

I'm 177 and ordered a v3rs 52s. My major issue with bikes currently is the saddle setback. After 8y riding with pain in the knees and visiting several fitters the last one found my position where I feel comfort. I always had the impression that my knees where a bit pulled when turning the pedals. He shifted the cleats backward and shifted the saddle forward. The others always focused on seat height and reach to the handlebars only and looking at the alignment of the knees but forgetting the the hips also determine if your knees get stressed in the wrong plane.

So I'm now at 748-750 seat height and a setback of 4-4.5 with a typical long saddle. For the flite boost saddle I'm currently riding this means 6-6.5cm

And there you have the issue. Needing a straight seatpost is paramount to even get the saddle close to the correct position. On a 50 it's a bit better as the seattube is 74 degree but then I would need to use a lot of spacers.

Any information if the seat clamps on the colnago posts can be reversed to have some additional possibility to propely clamp the saddle ?

[moonoi]

Totally new here to this forum

Searching for some answers already a few days and can't find all the info.

And there you have the issue. Needing a straight seatpost is paramount to even get the saddle close to the correct position. On a 50 it's a bit better as the seattube is 74 degree but then I would need to use a lot of spacers.

Any information if the seat clamps on the colnago posts can be reversed to have some additional possibility to propely clamp the saddle ?

Why not order a zero setback seatpost for the V3Rs? It’s the same one as used on the c64, Darimo also makes a zero setback seatpost.

[hannawald]

Totally new here to this forum

Searching for some answers already a few days and can't find all the info.

I'm 177 and ordered a v3rs 52s. My major issue with bikes currently is the saddle setback. After 8y riding with pain in the knees and visiting several fitters the last one found my position where I feel comfort. I always had the impression that my knees where a bit pulled when turning the pedals. He shifted the cleats backward and shifted the saddle forward. The others always focused on seat height and reach to the handlebars only and looking at the alignment of the knees but forgetting the the hips also determine if your knees get stressed in the wrong plane.

So I'm now at 748-750 seat height and a setback of 4-4.5 with a typical long saddle. For the flite boost saddle I'm currently riding this means 6-6.5cm

And there you have the issue. Needing a straight seatpost is paramount to even get the saddle close to the correct position. On a 50 it's a bit better as the seattube is 74 degree but then I would need to use a lot of spacers.

Any information if the seat clamps on the colnago posts can be reversed to have some additional possibility to propely clamp the saddle ?

I asked the same question on Colnago fans facebook page and got the answer that you could reverse the bottom part of the clamp.
Btw I am 184cm and have 52s. Maybe you can go on 50s. Colnago can take lots of spacers, fork steerer is quite rigid having a metal insert for screwing the top cap through the whole steerer..so you can have headset cover (about 0.5cm) plus 4cm of spacers plus 1cm cable guide plus 3cm stack height stem..(with disc version - if you have rim brake bike then you will have different stem with about 4cm stack height and no cable guide). I know a lot of spacers doesn´t look that sexy but on the other hand smaller frame with more exposed seatpost also looks better..

[wickedstealthy]

Totally new here to this forum

Searching for some answers already a few days and can't find all the info.

I'm 177 and ordered a v3rs 52s. My major issue with bikes currently is the saddle setback. After 8y riding with pain in the knees and visiting several fitters the last one found my position where I feel comfort. I always had the impression that my knees where a bit pulled when turning the pedals. He shifted the cleats backward and shifted the saddle forward. The others always focused on seat height and reach to the handlebars only and looking at the alignment of the knees but forgetting the the hips also determine if your knees get stressed in the wrong plane.

So I'm now at 748-750 seat height and a setback of 4-4.5 with a typical long saddle. For the flite boost saddle I'm currently riding this means 6-6.5cm

And there you have the issue. Needing a straight seatpost is paramount to even get the saddle close to the correct position. On a 50 it's a bit better as the seattube is 74 degree but then I would need to use a lot of spacers.

Any information if the seat clamps on the colnago posts can be reversed to have some additional possibility to propely clamp the saddle ?

I asked the same question on Colnago fans facebook page and got the answer that you could reverse the bottom part of the clamp.
Btw I am 184cm and have 52s. Maybe you can go on 50s. Colnago can take lots of spacers, fork steerer is quite rigid having a metal insert for screwing the top cap through the whole steerer..so you can have headset cover (about 0.5cm) plus 4cm of spacers plus 1cm cable guide plus 3cm stack height stem..(with disc version - if you have rim brake bike then you will have different stem with about 4cm stack height and no cable guide). I know a lot of spacers doesn´t look that sexy but on the other hand smaller frame with more exposed seatpost also looks better..

Thats a bit my issue. Don't like a lot of spacers. I have considered the C64 high to avoid that I had a custom Sarto on order but the in between guy screwed me big time But my lawyer is dealing with it that right now. The v3rs frame is nearly identical then that Sarto built except a bit steeper seattube 74 that solved that issue ...
I have ordered the 0 seatpost but that's already close. I don't have my saddle forwarded because of the frame size but it seems that I get really knee pain (till I need to quit for a while) if I don't sit close to the bb. But if the cap can be reversed it would be a good solution.

If I did the correct drawings the setup will have about 18.4cm exposed seat and about 15mm spacers with the alanera bar. Which I believe is only 5mm additional spacer on top what is required for the alanera bar (5mm topcap and 5mm aero spacer)

Anyway thanks about the reverse of the cap

[sgergole]

Totally new here to this forum

Searching for some answers already a few days and can't find all the info.

I'm 177 and ordered a v3rs 52s. My major issue with bikes currently is the saddle setback. After 8y riding with pain in the knees and visiting several fitters the last one found my position where I feel comfort. I always had the impression that my knees where a bit pulled when turning the pedals. He shifted the cleats backward and shifted the saddle forward. The others always focused on seat height and reach to the handlebars only and looking at the alignment of the knees but forgetting the the hips also determine if your knees get stressed in the wrong plane.

So I'm now at 748-750 seat height and a setback of 4-4.5 with a typical long saddle. For the flite boost saddle I'm currently riding this means 6-6.5cm

And there you have the issue. Needing a straight seatpost is paramount to even get the saddle close to the correct position. On a 50 it's a bit better as the seattube is 74 degree but then I would need to use a lot of spacers.

Any information if the seat clamps on the colnago posts can be reversed to have some additional possibility to propely clamp the saddle ?

I am 180 and have a V3Rs in size 50, with a 100mm stem. Seat height around 733, with 9cm od drop between seat and handlebars. 100mm stem...
So it seems that we have quite different riding positions. What's the drop between saddle and handlebars that you are used to?

[wickedstealthy]

Totally new here to this forum

Searching for some answers already a few days and can't find all the info.

I'm 177 and ordered a v3rs 52s. My major issue with bikes currently is the saddle setback. After 8y riding with pain in the knees and visiting several fitters the last one found my position where I feel comfort. I always had the impression that my knees where a bit pulled when turning the pedals. He shifted the cleats backward and shifted the saddle forward. The others always focused on seat height and reach to the handlebars only and looking at the alignment of the knees but forgetting the the hips also determine if your knees get stressed in the wrong plane.

So I'm now at 748-750 seat height and a setback of 4-4.5 with a typical long saddle. For the flite boost saddle I'm currently riding this means 6-6.5cm

And there you have the issue. Needing a straight seatpost is paramount to even get the saddle close to the correct position. On a 50 it's a bit better as the seattube is 74 degree but then I would need to use a lot of spacers.

Any information if the seat clamps on the colnago posts can be reversed to have some additional possibility to propely clamp the saddle ?

I am 180 and have a V3Rs in size 50, with a 100mm stem. Seat height around 733, with 9cm od drop between seat and handlebars. 100mm stem...
So it seems that we have quite different riding positions. What's the drop between saddle and handlebars that you are used to?

Drop is between 7.5 to 9.5. I ride my Canyon Endurace on 7.5 as it can't get lower. But rode an aeroroad size M with drop 9.5 without an issue for 1.5month. The only thing that seems constant is the saddle position. If I push it back I get kneeproblems. It's till recently and many fitters in the last 7 years and on and off the bike with inflamed knees that the last fitter put me forward and moved my cleats back. My saddle height is 750mm at 8cm width of the saddle. The saddle is an flite boost superflow that's only 6.5cm setback from top of the nose to the bb. So the drop on a 52 is pretty spot on (9.5 to 8.5) A size 50 would result in something like 4cm spacers (topcap included).
All fitters till now didn't lower my seat much (all between 745-750) The first fitter years ago put me on 76cm saddle height and almost 6cm further back Kind of Superman position ...

Checking Basso they would put me on a size 53. It has roughly the same stack and reach but has a steeper seattube 74 for that size.