Colnago V3 RS

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Belisarius
Posts: 79
Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2014 5:36 pm

by Belisarius

del

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Belisarius
Posts: 79
Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2014 5:36 pm

by Belisarius

hannawald wrote:
Fri Jun 18, 2021 10:18 am
I asked the same question on Colnago fans facebook page and got the answer that you could reverse the bottom part of the clamp.
Btw I am 184cm and have 52s. Maybe you can go on 50s. Colnago can take lots of spacers, fork steerer is quite rigid having a metal insert for screwing the top cap through the whole steerer..so you can have headset cover (about 0.5cm) plus 4cm of spacers plus 1cm cable guide plus 3cm stack height stem..(with disc version - if you have rim brake bike then you will have different stem with about 4cm stack height and no cable guide). I know a lot of spacers doesn´t look that sexy but on the other hand smaller frame with more exposed seatpost also looks better..
[/quote]

"you could reverse the bottom part of the clamp." Thank you, Not even CicliCorsa, seemed to know this when I inquired about seatpost. it is indeed a 10-20,000$ tip.

Belisarius
Posts: 79
Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2014 5:36 pm

by Belisarius

hannawald wrote:
Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:26 am
Does anybody know the torque for internal seat clamp bolt? I have googled 6Nm somewhere (just somebody says so, not an official source from Colnago or so) but the seatpost is slipping even though I use carbon paste. Thanks!
I usually use 60-70% of recommended torque with a calibrated torque wrench. It is very easy to snap seapost or stem bolts, esp if any grease or lubricant contaminates the bolt thread. In some aspects I prefer the old collar rings as I could screw out the snapped half. Never use titanium bolts (did and piiing) ; and I ordered high tensile bolts from industrial suppliers. I also usually wrap (chamois leather) the junction area when washing the bikes, so soaps or water do not enter and alter the friction... But these new clamp bolt approaches are peculiar... Hopefully, your slipping issue has resolved?

wickedstealthy
Posts: 427
Joined: Sat Jan 02, 2021 3:16 pm

by wickedstealthy

Belisarius wrote:
Mon Aug 09, 2021 12:43 pm
wickedstealthy wrote:
Fri Jun 18, 2021 9:49 am
Totally new here to this forum :)

Searching for some answers already a few days and can't find all the info.

I'm 177 and ordered a v3rs 52s. My major issue with bikes currently is the saddle setback. After 8y riding with pain in the knees and visiting several fitters the last one found my position where I feel comfort. I always had the impression that my knees where a bit pulled when turning the pedals. He shifted the cleats backward and shifted the saddle forward. The others always focused on seat height and reach to the handlebars only and looking at the alignment of the knees but forgetting the the hips also determine if your knees get stressed in the wrong plane.

So I'm now at 748-750 seat height and a setback of 4-4.5 with a typical long saddle. For the flite boost saddle I'm currently riding this means 6-6.5cm

And there you have the issue. Needing a straight seatpost is paramount to even get the saddle close to the correct position. On a 50 it's a bit better as the seattube is 74 degree but then I would need to use a lot of spacers.

Any information if the seat clamps on the colnago posts can be reversed to have some additional possibility to propely clamp the saddle ?
It is not you, but the saddle manufactuers!! I realized this in 2020 when tried three different saddles, and found out that most makers reduced the saddle weight BY REDUCING THE REAR ANGLE AND RAIL LENGTH. Most saddles thus lost 15-25 mm at the rear, and thus the mounting zone or the junction point of the rails moved front by the same amount (which means that your saddle is much much further back). So someone with a 15-25 mm seatpost would be nearly at 30-45 mm rear offset with a new gen saddle. Consequently, I had to order a Deda 0mm and, pending its arrival, my lower back took a good 1500 km beating on the Specialized Romin Evo Pro being just 10mm too far back.....I went online, grabbed saddle pics and juxtaposed them in powerpoint, transparent, keeping proper ratios.. results were telling, seeing how the rail length had shortened. But I was at least able to order 3-4 San Marco and selle italias.... All and all pain went away and on an old bike I push 40 km/hr sustained and I gained 1.5km/hr post seapost change...

Ironically, that 2014 Giant TCR Advanced that I barely rode due to this issue, discovered that it had a REVERSIBLE clamp, so 25 to -15 mm clamp so DOUGH moment lol. But the issue threw in the air my bike replacement strategy, as only Specialized Tarmac (does not fit me) or Dogma (not available) come with optional 0mm seatposts. Basso itself, at the factory, told me that they were scrambling to design a 0 mm seatpost (april-july 2021 for the 2022 model) as staffers and clients rapidly reported back issues and the reach modification... "We know, we know" told me the Basso tech... Worse- Basso, Colnago etc all now have proprietary seatposts, so you cannot just go online and order a Deda one... or Easton... Selle Italia introduced a new saddle marketting it as 10mm longer- a belated bid to say "oops riders, we messed up." So basically saddle makers never properly synked this developpment with bike manufacturers...

I am presently waiting for a V3 RS, conditional to getting that 0mm seatpost..

Right now, the longest Pro rails you can find (though shorter than prev gens) as Selle Italia and San Marco. That is it. Ther shortest in the industry are Fizik...
Well I always fit my saddle taking measurements at 7cm-8cm width and that's when I see that I get in trouble not getting the saddle fitted if the angle is not at least 73.5 degree. And still need a 0 degree seatpost

That was exactly the reason I initially went for Basso as they use a 74 degree seattube in 53. Early this year they promised the straight seatpost, got scratched and sent them a message I will not buy the bike. Lately they told me they would produce the straight post so it becomes an option again.

I also told them to produce a carbon integra handlebar as their stock stuff is proprietary and heavy as hell for a light frame. Strange reasoning

So my point now is that I scratch all bikes not having at least a 73.5 degree seattube and not delivering a proper straight seatpost.
Bmc was also an option but fitting an endurance bike with a -12 stem is also something very very strange. Most need then spacers to cover the stack.

From what I now see the V3rs ticks all the boxes though I wished they will also get a bit steeper seattube like Basso. So the saddle can be fitted a bit nicer.

Btw, I used the sell flite boost and I can fit it but recently bought the team version just for the extra 10mm space to use a gelu seatpost on my canyon endurace. It has a wide clamping area so it was close to the end of the rails for the stock flite boost saddle

hannawald
Posts: 1706
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by hannawald

Belisarius wrote:
Mon Aug 09, 2021 1:33 pm
hannawald wrote:
Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:26 am
Does anybody know the torque for internal seat clamp bolt? I have googled 6Nm somewhere (just somebody says so, not an official source from Colnago or so) but the seatpost is slipping even though I use carbon paste. Thanks!
I usually use 60-70% of recommended torque with a calibrated torque wrench. It is very easy to snap seapost or stem bolts, esp if any grease or lubricant contaminates the bolt thread. In some aspects I prefer the old collar rings as I could screw out the snapped half. Never use titanium bolts (did and piiing) ; and I ordered high tensile bolts from industrial suppliers. I also usually wrap (chamois leather) the junction area when washing the bikes, so soaps or water do not enter and alter the friction... But these new clamp bolt approaches are peculiar... Hopefully, your slipping issue has resolved?
Yes, the V3RS seat clamp is 8NM max and this torque works. It's even printed on new seat clamps (was not before) That info about 6NM was not correct, probably only for C64 which uses different seat clamp.

hannawald
Posts: 1706
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by hannawald

Belisarius wrote:
Mon Aug 09, 2021 1:33 pm
hannawald wrote:
Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:26 am
Does anybody know the torque for internal seat clamp bolt? I have googled 6Nm somewhere (just somebody says so, not an official source from Colnago or so) but the seatpost is slipping even though I use carbon paste. Thanks!
I usually use 60-70% of recommended torque with a calibrated torque wrench. It is very easy to snap seapost or stem bolts, esp if any grease or lubricant contaminates the bolt thread. In some aspects I prefer the old collar rings as I could screw out the snapped half. Never use titanium bolts (did and piiing) ; and I ordered high tensile bolts from industrial suppliers. I also usually wrap (chamois leather) the junction area when washing the bikes, so soaps or water do not enter and alter the friction... But these new clamp bolt approaches are peculiar... Hopefully, your slipping issue has resolved?
Yes, the V3RS seat clamp is 8NM max and this torque works. It's even printed on new seat clamps (was not before) That info about 6NM was not correct, probably only for C64 which uses different seat clamp.

For 184cm 52s should be perfect match:)

Perp
Posts: 54
Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:03 am

by Perp

What stem is everyone using? I have the Sr9 stem with R41 bars and need a longer stem. Any alternatives (lighter) than the SR9 that still integrates the cables?

sgergole
Posts: 46
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 11:39 am

by sgergole

Perp wrote:
Fri Aug 13, 2021 6:35 pm
What stem is everyone using? I have the Sr9 stem with R41 bars and need a longer stem. Any alternatives (lighter) than the SR9 that still integrates the cables?
I integrated everything with Darimo stem and handlebars. It wasn't easy to set it up though.

milanv
Posts: 611
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 9:03 am

by milanv

sgergole wrote:
Wed Aug 18, 2021 9:58 am
Perp wrote:
Fri Aug 13, 2021 6:35 pm
What stem is everyone using? I have the Sr9 stem with R41 bars and need a longer stem. Any alternatives (lighter) than the SR9 that still integrates the cables?
I integrated everything with Darimo stem and handlebars. It wasn't easy to set it up though.
Pics, more information?

chazman
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:00 pm

by chazman

sgergole wrote:
Wed Aug 18, 2021 9:58 am
Perp wrote:
Fri Aug 13, 2021 6:35 pm
What stem is everyone using? I have the Sr9 stem with R41 bars and need a longer stem. Any alternatives (lighter) than the SR9 that still integrates the cables?
I integrated everything with Darimo stem and handlebars. It wasn't easy to set it up though.
Hi, you mentioned the carbon reinforcement that you drilled, did that come with the stem? Or did the red plastic reinforcement come with the stem? I've seen the SR9 stem kit includes a metal reinforcement but I could have remembered it incorrectly...

hannawald
Posts: 1706
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Location: Czech Republic

by hannawald

Red plastic plug comes with SR9 stem together with top cap, matching aero spacers.. there is no metal plug from Colnago. I have seen one in a video on youtube but it was custom made

sgergole
Posts: 46
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 11:39 am

by sgergole

chazman wrote:
Thu Aug 26, 2021 7:52 pm
sgergole wrote:
Wed Aug 18, 2021 9:58 am
Perp wrote:
Fri Aug 13, 2021 6:35 pm
What stem is everyone using? I have the Sr9 stem with R41 bars and need a longer stem. Any alternatives (lighter) than the SR9 that still integrates the cables?
I integrated everything with Darimo stem and handlebars. It wasn't easy to set it up though.
Hi, you mentioned the carbon reinforcement that you drilled, did that come with the stem? Or did the red plastic reinforcement come with the stem? I've seen the SR9 stem kit includes a metal reinforcement but I could have remembered it incorrectly...
It has the same shape as the red plastic reinforcement, but it is made of carbon and supplied by Darimo with the stem. I had to adapt it since I needed 3x cables to pass in it, and it was just not wide enough

Image

sgergole
Posts: 46
Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2016 11:39 am

by sgergole

milanv wrote:
Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:13 am
sgergole wrote:
Wed Aug 18, 2021 9:58 am
Perp wrote:
Fri Aug 13, 2021 6:35 pm
What stem is everyone using? I have the Sr9 stem with R41 bars and need a longer stem. Any alternatives (lighter) than the SR9 that still integrates the cables?
I integrated everything with Darimo stem and handlebars. It wasn't easy to set it up though.
Pics, more information?
Image

there we go with the final result. For some complicated reasons I had to mount again the standard SR9, but will put back the Darimo as soon as possible, even if it takes 4 hours of effort to do it again and a lot of swearing. it just looks too good to me.

KotP
Posts: 176
Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:31 am

by KotP

Is anyone able to provide some info on the V3RS headset? Specifically if it's the same size (bearings and cups) as the C64 and C60.

Also combined weight of the upper and lower cups and bearings would be a bonus :D

The reason I ask is because the cups are now a different material but I believe the bearings are still 1 1/8 – 1 1/4".

V3RS (appears to be upper and lower polymer cups)

Image

C64 (upper polymer cup and lower alloy cup)

Image

C60/V1-R/V2-R (upper and lower alloy cups)

Image

Thanks.

by Weenie


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User avatar
ms6073
Posts: 4290
Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

sgergole wrote:
Tue Sep 07, 2021 10:34 am
I integrated everything with Darimo stem and handlebars. It wasn't easy to set it up though.
Image

there we go with the final result. For some complicated reasons I had to mount again the standard SR9, but will put back the Darimo as soon as possible, even if it takes 4 hours of effort to do it again and a lot of swearing. it just looks too good to me.
I did something similar with my C64 disc using the SR9 stem and an Enve SES Aero road handlebar. My inspiration was the new Enve AR bars which include a molded port on the back of the clamp area, so I opted to make a similar 'port' in my Enve SES Aero road bars, knowing full well this voids the warrant and probably any resale value. This required drilling a pair of adjoining holes in the back of the clamp area of the bar and as already mentioned, running the brake lines and Di2 wires can be a somewhat time consuming process. I wii also mention that it was difficult to route the Di2 cables to the bar end Di2 junction because the small holes I drilled in the clamp area proved less than optimal for routing the hydro brake lines and Di2 wire. Once completed, things look pretty tidy but maintaining the headset will be interesting as removing the stem will not be easy given the relative lack of 'slack' in the brake lines.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

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