Calnago wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2019 8:20 pm
@xmashx: you mentioned I may have said somewhere that with the Chorus brakes you can squeeze an extra 3mm of clearance? Hmm, I don’t recall that, I think it might be more like 1-2mm of extra clearance, giving you a total of 3mm clearance, which would be fine. But they certainly don’t give an extra 3mm on top of whatever clearance you get from your normal skeletons.
Ooooppsss! I just noticed that I didn't post my main reply and the draft was still open on my laptop. This could make the confusion as my another reply was after my dry-posting before.
So here it is:
Thanks for all the answers! I also finally found some other threads. The most important is this one:
viewtopic.php?t=146083
So I put it for a reference here. However there was not much information regarding the newer models.
Calnago wrote:
What they don’t say is that if you’re mounting them in the same hole as they came from (an existing frame), is that you will not have any more clearance than the prior Record/SR calipers. In fact, it will be slightly less (about a millimeter or slightly less). The brake shoes will end up mounting a bit higher in their slots, but that doesn’t help in the clearance department. A frame with a higher mounting bridge is the only way you’ll squeak more clearance with the new brakes. So, if it’s more clearance you need, in your existing frame, you won’t get it. Unless you move to the Chorus calipers. But if your ok with the clearance now, and just want the updated clean, non skeleton look, then go for it.
Right. Ok, I made a deeper research and inspection.
I have Dogma F8 and I want to continue to use it. As I'm switching from my carbon tubular wheels to alloys, I thought it might be a chance to try 25mm as 25mm tubular didn't fit (rubbing top of the brake on a valve area).
My current brakes are Super Record Dual Pivot 2015.
I previously forgot about rim width and didn't adjust brakes to more narrower rim as the alloy is (26mm vs 21.5mm on the outer size). So, on my new wheels I put the Conti GP 5000 25mm (regular version but the fact is I want to go tubeless if it's going to work!). My clearance verified by allen key between tire and brake on front is 2mm and <1.5mm on back (I couldn't insert the 1.5HEX). This was definitely too tight.
Then I squeezed rear brake pads closer to the rim (5mm of clearance due to different rims that I forgot!) and I could easily insert 1.5HEX but not 2mm on the back. I tried to use a micro adjustment bolt which is on the right side, and indeed it helped too, and I could easily insert 2 HEX but not 2.5.
So yeah, width of the rims and unscrewing the micro adjustment bolt helped me to get a bit over 2mm (I guess I could go from 2 to 2.5-3 for front in the same way). The only worrying issue was that brakes looked asymmetrical due to too much using of the micro adjustment. I guess this could be fixed by adjusting on the center bolt, right?
So, as on my current SR 2015 I have about 2-2.5mm of clearance between 25mm tire and brakes.
However, a clearance between tire and frame is 4+mm on front and 3.5-4mm on back (4HEX could pass but didn't want new scratches). So, I believe circa 4mm of clearance on both front and back between tire and frame is perfect!
As @Calnago and @KarlC already confirmed, the new R/SR don't help. But as I'm understanding Chorus Dual Pivot and Non Series Campagnolo Dual Pivot both would help in my case. Am I correct on it? With these brakes I could get the final clearance from 2-2.5mm to the 4-4.5mm (limited by frame itself)?
If so, I have just very simply questions:
1) Does it have to be Chorus 2015 or it can be also a newer Chorus 2x12?
2) What are real differences between the Non-Series and Chorus? I know they use different brake pads. Is my understanding correct that Non-series is 100% compatible with Shimano pads or I need convert them or change anything? I read also that the non-series have stiffer pads as they are thicker and it can improve performance. On the other side, some differences between center bolts and tension adjustment screw.
So, which one are preferable if budget is not a problem? I'm not really tech guy and didn't write hundrends of bikes. I can compare weight but not engineering
All I know is that Shimano pads are easier to get if this would be all difference.
@Calnago, but you were right. I remembered 3 mm, you stated about 1-2 mm. Is it clearance exactly the same for the non-series version?