Replacing plastic Campgnolo 2.3mm Cassette spacer with 2.2mm?
Moderator: robbosmans
I have isuess with Campagnolo Plastic 2.3mm Cassette spacer, beeing easy broken few times on my Chorus Cassetes... Im using Torque Wrench, and torque the cassette lock ring in the specification range... (In the middle of the range)...
I just checked the price of new 2.3 mm spacers, and is just not worth the money.. Over priced totaly (especially when i include shipping cost)
So since i have good luck 2.2 mm spacer, and have few of them.. Is it possible to replace this fragile 2.3mm spacer with more durable 2.2mm?
I guess 0.1mm wont make some big difference?
What are other members experiences about this?
I just checked the price of new 2.3 mm spacers, and is just not worth the money.. Over priced totaly (especially when i include shipping cost)
So since i have good luck 2.2 mm spacer, and have few of them.. Is it possible to replace this fragile 2.3mm spacer with more durable 2.2mm?
I guess 0.1mm wont make some big difference?
What are other members experiences about this?
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When Campy first came out with 11sp in 2009, that particular spacer was like the others. It was very difficult to dial out a very slight, but annoying, tick as the chain would just nick against an area of the next largest cog. It was certainly useable, but just not perfect. They made a running change and that slightly thicker spacer is the result. It’s not even a full 0.1mm thicker, but that’s the closest rounding to a tenth of a mm. And although it does seem to be the only spacer that I’ve ever noticed to break, I’d still use it. I bought a box of 3 or however many came in the Campy “packs” at the time just so that I could replace them on early 11sp cassettes I come across that did not have this spacer.
Oh, and the torque for the lockring is not a “range”... it’s 40Nm.
Oh, and the torque for the lockring is not a “range”... it’s 40Nm.
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Calnago wrote: ↑Wed Jun 12, 2019 3:30 pmWhen Campy first came out with 11sp in 2009, that particular spacer was like the others. It was very difficult to dial out a very slight, but annoying, tick as the chain would just nick against an area of the next largest cog. It was certainly useable, but just not perfect. They made a running change and that slightly thicker spacer is the result. It’s not even a full 0.1mm thicker, but that’s the closest rounding to a tenth of a mm. And although it does seem to be the only spacer that I’ve ever noticed to break, I’d still use it. I bought a box of 3 or however many came in the Campy “packs” at the time just so that I could replace them on early 11sp cassettes I come across that did not have this spacer.
Oh, and the torque for the lockring is not a “range”... it’s 40Nm.
So as i understund u, i can replace for a while this 2.3mm spacer with 2.2mm withou any big issue... Regarding the torque, seem that i found my mistake here...
Somehow i understund that there is torque range here 40nm-50nm, and i was going 45 nm (in the middle of what i thought is a range..)
I double checked this: https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/ ... 18_ENG.pdf
And seem that on Chorus Record SuperRecord is 40nm, while on other cassettes 50nm
p.s. Ouch.. I just checked and 2.3mm spacer is 14 eur without shipping
Anyway, good to know to dont go over 40nm
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You can superglue a normal spacer to a sheet of paper then trim the excess. Press it well, dont want too much glue to thicken the sandwich. Typical paper is from 0.07 to 0.1mm
Other than this i didn't even know there is a special spacer in there. Luckily mine never broke or fall off the cluster.
Other than this i didn't even know there is a special spacer in there. Luckily mine never broke or fall off the cluster.
Most reasonably priced torque wrenches are calibrated and have a stated accuracy to within 4% or less. Older Campy cassettes used to be 50Nm, but both Campy and Shimano are 40Nm these days. Point is, it’s pretty tight. And I don’t know that going over this spec by 5Nm would be the cause of your cracked spacer. Do make sure it’s seated properly in the cog cluster during assembly however.
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- Dan Gerous
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Impregnated with superglue it kinda turns into a sort of plastic. I doubt it can absorb much water and even if it could, the edge is quickly covered by chain lube.
Can alu should be similar thickness but a bit trickier to cut....
It’s the spacer separating the smaller cluster of 3 cogs from the single cogs. It kind of “snaps” in to the cluster.
It’s easy to identify from the rest...
The 2.3mm (actually 2.26mm) is on the left vs the 2.2mm (actually 2.21mm) on the right. Like I said, it was a very small difference but enough to give the chain the clearance it needed.
With differences as small as they are, and the preciseness of today’s drive trains, it wouldn’t be worth it in my opinion to start cutting up beer cans just to save a few dollars in the grand scheme of things. It could end up making things worse than if you did doing nothing and just left the cracked spacer in there, creak and all.
It’s easy to identify from the rest...
The 2.3mm (actually 2.26mm) is on the left vs the 2.2mm (actually 2.21mm) on the right. Like I said, it was a very small difference but enough to give the chain the clearance it needed.
With differences as small as they are, and the preciseness of today’s drive trains, it wouldn’t be worth it in my opinion to start cutting up beer cans just to save a few dollars in the grand scheme of things. It could end up making things worse than if you did doing nothing and just left the cracked spacer in there, creak and all.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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