Scott Addict Disc 2020
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Yeah that's a ton. I just weighed my original bars and they are 333g in 42. Stem weighs 267g. Now with the Vision bars it's 477g total.
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022
Hi,Topzouille wrote: ↑Tue Mar 15, 2022 2:21 pmMany grams about 70.Reds wrote: ↑Sun Mar 13, 2022 3:31 pmHiTopzouille wrote: ↑Sat Mar 12, 2022 3:47 pmHello !!
This is my bike
Scott addict RC 2021 size 52 upgrade with 12 speeds shimano Ultegra
Wheels are from FRANCE Dmag Wheels with aivee Ed1 hubs, sapim CX RAY spokes and 38mm carbon rims about 1330g. Tubolito (40g) and Maxxis High Road tyre.
Syncros Creston IC SL 110/40 handlebar, k edge mount and supacaz, not the lightest, bar tape.
INPEAK power meter in the left lever, and 52/36 chainring. Dura ace rear sprocket 11/30. Dura ace pedals with titanium axles.
Selle Italia Flite Boost kit carbonio s1 seat.
Lot of pleasure in this allround bike and weight is 7,05 kgs
Nice bike and light too !
Is there a big difference between ultegra rear sprocket and dura ace ?
Do you know if a Wahoo support is compatible for integrated creston ?
Thanks
I think you can cause DSM uses Wahoo
Next week it will be lighter cause I will test a @cocobikeparts Carbon saddle !
Thank you, I will recive soon a dura ace 11-25 to replace the ultegra 11-28 !
The Syncros seatpost is actually manufactured by Ritchey, so you can use theirs: https://www.bike24.com/p214270.html?q=ritchey%201-bolt
(don't forget to choose 7x9mm version)
(don't forget to choose 7x9mm version)
Enid: Scott Addict RC Ultimate Team Ed - 7.2 kg (in. pedals and bottle cages)
Nearly finished, my Scott Addict 2022 size XL !
Current weight 7,02 w/ pedals w/o computer mount
Build list
Frame: Scott Addict RC XL 2022
Fork: Scott
Expander: Scott (will be replaced by Extralight Ultrastar 4)
Shifters: Shimano Ultegra Di2 12sp 8170 (wired)
Chain: Shimano Ultegra 12sp 8100
Crankset: Shimano Ultegra 8100 172.5 mm 50/34
Cassette: 11-28 RYET at home (I live on the flat), 11-32 Ultegra for the mountains
Stem/bar: Scott Creston IC SL 420/110 mm
Seat: Berk Lupine padded 130 mm
Wheels: Lightbicycle 45 mm w/ Extralight hubs and Sapim CX-rays spokes + brass nippels
Tires: Schwalbe One 28 mm tubeless
Valves: Muc-off
Sealant: 2x 30 ml Orange Endurance
Computer mount: Close the Gap
Bottle cages: Tune Wasserträger 2.0
Rotors: Galfer Fixed 6-bolt 160/140
Thru axles: J&L
Pedals / powermeter: Bepro Favero DUO
Seatpost: Syncros (standard post)
Will take better pictures when the weather picks up!
Current weight 7,02 w/ pedals w/o computer mount
Build list
Frame: Scott Addict RC XL 2022
Fork: Scott
Expander: Scott (will be replaced by Extralight Ultrastar 4)
Shifters: Shimano Ultegra Di2 12sp 8170 (wired)
Chain: Shimano Ultegra 12sp 8100
Crankset: Shimano Ultegra 8100 172.5 mm 50/34
Cassette: 11-28 RYET at home (I live on the flat), 11-32 Ultegra for the mountains
Stem/bar: Scott Creston IC SL 420/110 mm
Seat: Berk Lupine padded 130 mm
Wheels: Lightbicycle 45 mm w/ Extralight hubs and Sapim CX-rays spokes + brass nippels
Tires: Schwalbe One 28 mm tubeless
Valves: Muc-off
Sealant: 2x 30 ml Orange Endurance
Computer mount: Close the Gap
Bottle cages: Tune Wasserträger 2.0
Rotors: Galfer Fixed 6-bolt 160/140
Thru axles: J&L
Pedals / powermeter: Bepro Favero DUO
Seatpost: Syncros (standard post)
Will take better pictures when the weather picks up!
Editor-in-chief CycloWorld.cc - the largest database of gran fondo's and sportives in the world.
Well done and beautiful color !havana wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 6:00 pmNearly finished, my Scott Addict 2022 size XL !
Current weight 7,02 w/ pedals w/o computer mount
Build list
Frame: Scott Addict RC XL 2022
Fork: Scott
Expander: Scott (will be replaced by Extralight Ultrastar 4)
Shifters: Shimano Ultegra Di2 12sp 8170 (wired)
Chain: Shimano Ultegra 12sp 8100
Crankset: Shimano Ultegra 8100 172.5 mm 50/34
Cassette: 11-28 RYET at home (I live on the flat), 11-32 Ultegra for the mountains
Stem/bar: Scott Creston IC SL 420/110 mm
Seat: Berk Lupine padded 130 mm
Wheels: Lightbicycle 45 mm w/ Extralight hubs and Sapim CX-rays spokes + brass nippels
Tires: Schwalbe One 28 mm tubeless
Valves: Muc-off
Sealant: 2x 30 ml Orange Endurance
Computer mount: Close the Gap
Bottle cages: Tune Wasserträger 2.0
Rotors: Galfer Fixed 6-bolt 160/140
Thru axles: J&L
Pedals / powermeter: Bepro Favero DUO
Seatpost: Syncros (standard post)
Will take better pictures when the weather picks up!
You will be less than 7kg after replace expander probably.
What is the weight of the wheelset (wheel only) ?
Are you confident with the light cage bottle ?
I will receive soon (I hope) a creston IC SL, which computer support you have ?
Hi Dave, sorry haven't been active on this thread much lately. I've installed IC SL bars three times (don't ask...). It isn't much fun, but a few hints.BianchiDave wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 9:18 pmSo I'll soon be changing from the two piece IC to one piece IC SL cockpit, and just want to check with others who have made the switch (@GeoffS maybe?)
- The Park routing tool is invaluable. Get one if you don't already.
- Tape the fork to the frame to prevent it moving around too much as you assemble things.
- Run the cables/hoses through the bars first. Trying to do this after they've been routed through the frame is just about impossible.
- After the hoses/cables have been routed through the bars, route some old hose/cables through the frame and then join them to the ends of the new hoses/cables exiting the bars. [On the hydraulic hoses, a nail up the inside and some strong thin tape around the outside does a good job of joining.] This makes it much easier to push the hoses/cables back through the frame as you try to get the bars seated onto the steerer.
- Grow an extra pair of hands. Failing that, a friend or loved one to help is a good substitute.
Good luck!
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- Posts: 182
- Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2020 8:46 am
Thanks Geoff. No need to apolgise! I've actually not had time to fit my bars yet due to house alterations keeping me busy.GeoffS wrote: ↑Sun Apr 03, 2022 11:05 am
Hi Dave, sorry haven't been active on this thread much lately. I've installed IC SL bars three times (don't ask...). It isn't much fun, but a few hints.
- The Park routing tool is invaluable. Get one if you don't already.
- Tape the fork to the frame to prevent it moving around too much as you assemble things.
- Run the cables/hoses through the bars first. Trying to do this after they've been routed through the frame is just about impossible.
- After the hoses/cables have been routed through the bars, route some old hose/cables through the frame and then join them to the ends of the new hoses/cables exiting the bars. [On the hydraulic hoses, a nail up the inside and some strong thin tape around the outside does a good job of joining.] This makes it much easier to push the hoses/cables back through the frame as you try to get the bars seated onto the steerer.
- Grow an extra pair of hands. Failing that, a friend or loved one to help is a good substitute.
Good luck!
I'm going to leave the hoses and gear outers in the frame and just work at the bar end. There should be plenty slack as I've gone from 420 to 380 bars and when I cut my steerer last year, I didn't shorten the cables. The bars have come with the guide cables in place, so I've gotten hold of some 6mm heatshrink which I can feed through first, for the 5mm brake hoses. I can then do a similar procedure with narrower heat shrink for the gear outers. Should work ok (I hope!).
Cheers
Dave
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu May 20, 2021 6:54 pm
So I've started to think about cutting my steerer tube and slamming the stem - no spacers other than the small mandatory one.
I want to test the position out beforehand. I have 35mm of spacers on at the moment. Do I need to do anything with the expansion plug? I'm not sure how tall it is and I'm concerned I'll be clamping the stem below it.
When the time comes to cut the steerer tube do I need to cut brake hoses and gear cables (RC 30 mechanical ultegra) or is there enough room in the handlebars and frame for them to be stuffed in? Can anyone who's done this share their experience? Thanks
I want to test the position out beforehand. I have 35mm of spacers on at the moment. Do I need to do anything with the expansion plug? I'm not sure how tall it is and I'm concerned I'll be clamping the stem below it.
When the time comes to cut the steerer tube do I need to cut brake hoses and gear cables (RC 30 mechanical ultegra) or is there enough room in the handlebars and frame for them to be stuffed in? Can anyone who's done this share their experience? Thanks
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- Posts: 182
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Probably best to go easy with clamping force on steerer, but being only temporary I wouldn't worry about it.CruellaDerailleur wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 10:45 pmSo I've started to think about cutting my steerer tube and slamming the stem - no spacers other than the small mandatory one.
I want to test the position out beforehand. I have 35mm of spacers on at the moment. Do I need to do anything with the expansion plug? I'm not sure how tall it is and I'm concerned I'll be clamping the stem below it.
When the time comes to cut the steerer tube do I need to cut brake hoses and gear cables (RC 30 mechanical ultegra) or is there enough room in the handlebars and frame for them to be stuffed in? Can anyone who's done this share their experience? Thanks
I was able to cut my steerer by removing the stem with all cables in place (also mechanical). There should be enough slack to allow the stem clamp to slide off the top of the steerer. Only thing I had to do was undo the front brake calliper to give a bit more slack.
I didn't need to shorten any of the cables, and found there was room to stuff them back into the frame. I've just installed the SL cockpit which was 380mm versus the stock 420mm iC 1.5, and did have to shorten the cables this time.
Its best to 'keep' as much cable as you can for future maintenance, especially if you intend changing bar width or stem length.