Scott Addict Disc 2020

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pmprego
Posts: 2513
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 3:16 pm

by pmprego

Indeed nice paint job. Curious about those wheels also. 303se

by Weenie


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Addict15
Posts: 100
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2021 1:29 am

by Addict15

Roadbiker10 wrote:Finally was able to mount the tyres to the Hyper wheels with much pain. Running Silca tubes with Lun's own 35mm extenders, on Conti GP 5000 25c. Also just got a Quarq powermeter for the crankset. Got tired of waiting for Speedplay meter.

By the way, does anyone have any answers regarding the creacking when tightening and loosening the stem screws and what could be the cause? See my post a few posts up. Is is something to be worried about?
BFD26B29-CECA-42EA-BCAD-6017697B4204.jpeg
The silver screw is not standard, but as long as it has the same thread pitch as the black one it shouldn’t be an issue. The cracking could be from locktite, if you use a torque wrench I wouldn’t worry about it. You could check if the bolt on the left side in front of the steerer is tight as well, that should be tightened before doing up the stem bolts.

As for the zipp 303 se wheels, I’m pretty sure it’s the zipp 303s rims with the formula hubs which are also on the syncros capitol 1.0 wheels

Roadbiker10
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2021 8:22 am

by Roadbiker10

Addict15 wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 10:03 am
Roadbiker10 wrote:Finally was able to mount the tyres to the Hyper wheels with much pain. Running Silca tubes with Lun's own 35mm extenders, on Conti GP 5000 25c. Also just got a Quarq powermeter for the crankset. Got tired of waiting for Speedplay meter.

By the way, does anyone have any answers regarding the creacking when tightening and loosening the stem screws and what could be the cause? See my post a few posts up. Is is something to be worried about?

BFD26B29-CECA-42EA-BCAD-6017697B4204.jpeg
The silver screw is not standard, but as long as it has the same thread pitch as the black one it shouldn’t be an issue. The cracking could be from locktite, if you use a torque wrench I wouldn’t worry about it. You could check if the bolt on the left side in front of the steerer is tight as well, that should be tightened before doing up the stem bolts.

As for the zipp 303 se wheels, I’m pretty sure it’s the zipp 303s rims with the formula hubs which are also on the syncros capitol 1.0 wheels
What, really? Once again I manage to screw things up.🙂

Do you mean the screw that holds that metal part, the one which goes in the side of the stem? I had that removed for a while along with the plastic covers. Had no idea that has anything to do with the stem clamping the steerer. I mean I didn't ride like that, the bike has not been riden while those parts were removed.

Do you mean that screw also is a part of the clamping mechanism? From the other side. So should I now loosen the steerer clamp bolts and then put in and tighten that side screw, and screw the bolts back up?

I don't think it's from the locktite, and only the black screw had a bit of locktite. These were pretty loud sounds. I do use a quality torque wrench by the way, don't trust myself at all otherwise.

Regarding the silver screw. I was just wondering why they replaced that when the bike was three weeks old when I got it. Maybe something went wrong.

The screw which goes there you mean:
7A9FD76A-4174-4FE3-B3CB-F54FCCA49348.jpeg
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022

ChrisRideLog
Posts: 47
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:36 am

by ChrisRideLog

Roadbiker10 wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 1:09 pm
Addict15 wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 10:03 am
Roadbiker10 wrote:Finally was able to mount the tyres to the Hyper wheels with much pain. Running Silca tubes with Lun's own 35mm extenders, on Conti GP 5000 25c. Also just got a Quarq powermeter for the crankset. Got tired of waiting for Speedplay meter.

By the way, does anyone have any answers regarding the creacking when tightening and loosening the stem screws and what could be the cause? See my post a few posts up. Is is something to be worried about?

BFD26B29-CECA-42EA-BCAD-6017697B4204.jpeg
The silver screw is not standard, but as long as it has the same thread pitch as the black one it shouldn’t be an issue. The cracking could be from locktite, if you use a torque wrench I wouldn’t worry about it. You could check if the bolt on the left side in front of the steerer is tight as well, that should be tightened before doing up the stem bolts.

As for the zipp 303 se wheels, I’m pretty sure it’s the zipp 303s rims with the formula hubs which are also on the syncros capitol 1.0 wheels
What, really? Once again I manage to screw things up.🙂

Do you mean the screw that holds that metal part, the one which goes in the side of the stem? I had that removed for a while along with the plastic covers. Had no idea that has anything to do with the stem clamping the steerer. I mean I didn't ride like that, the bike has not been riden while those parts were removed.

Do you mean that screw also is a part of the clamping mechanism? From the other side. So should I now loosen the steerer clamp bolts and then put in and tighten that side screw, and screw the bolts back up?

I don't think it's from the locktite, and only the black screw had a bit of locktite. These were pretty loud sounds. I do use a quality torque wrench by the way, don't trust myself at all otherwise.

Regarding the silver screw. I was just wondering why they replaced that when the bike was three weeks old when I got it. Maybe something went wrong.

The screw which goes there you mean:

7A9FD76A-4174-4FE3-B3CB-F54FCCA49348.jpeg
Don't get me wrong and please no heartfeelings.
With your very limited technical understanding, I would highly recommend to take your bike to your LBS.

ChrisRideLog
Posts: 47
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:36 am

by ChrisRideLog

mapaha2810 wrote:
Thu Jan 13, 2022 7:50 pm
ChrisRideLog wrote:
Wed Jan 12, 2022 8:32 pm
mapaha2810 wrote:
Wed Jan 05, 2022 1:08 am

Here's some more inspiration :beerchug: 2021 Addict RC Pro framset (size L) with the new Ultegra R8100, Nextie CRX 45 rims and DT 240s hubs (by "Laufradtuning Köln"). My cheap suitcase scale says 7.25 kg (incl. DA pedals, bottle cages, tubeless sealant, Garmin mount and Varia mount) - probably it's rather 7.3-7.4 with a more precise scale. Will check that out some time
Hey Mapaha,
What is the weight of the wheelset? And how do they ride? Are you happy with them?

Thanks.
1390g incl. tubeless rimtape. Because of the shitty weather here in Germany I've ridden the new build only for 85 km by now, pretty flat terrain. So far: All fine. They look good, feel stiff and I've chosen the CRX 45 rims because I think 45mm is a good compromise for being leightweight and aero. Plus the inner width suits 28-30mm tyres well. But way too early to really judge them.
Thanks a lot for the reply. I might will get the 50mm version.

Roadbiker10
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2021 8:22 am

by Roadbiker10

ChrisRideLog wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 1:32 pm
Roadbiker10 wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 1:09 pm
Addict15 wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 10:03 am
Roadbiker10 wrote:Finally was able to mount the tyres to the Hyper wheels with much pain. Running Silca tubes with Lun's own 35mm extenders, on Conti GP 5000 25c. Also just got a Quarq powermeter for the crankset. Got tired of waiting for Speedplay meter.

By the way, does anyone have any answers regarding the creacking when tightening and loosening the stem screws and what could be the cause? See my post a few posts up. Is is something to be worried about?

BFD26B29-CECA-42EA-BCAD-6017697B4204.jpeg
The silver screw is not standard, but as long as it has the same thread pitch as the black one it shouldn’t be an issue. The cracking could be from locktite, if you use a torque wrench I wouldn’t worry about it. You could check if the bolt on the left side in front of the steerer is tight as well, that should be tightened before doing up the stem bolts.

As for the zipp 303 se wheels, I’m pretty sure it’s the zipp 303s rims with the formula hubs which are also on the syncros capitol 1.0 wheels
What, really? Once again I manage to screw things up.🙂

Do you mean the screw that holds that metal part, the one which goes in the side of the stem? I had that removed for a while along with the plastic covers. Had no idea that has anything to do with the stem clamping the steerer. I mean I didn't ride like that, the bike has not been riden while those parts were removed.

Do you mean that screw also is a part of the clamping mechanism? From the other side. So should I now loosen the steerer clamp bolts and then put in and tighten that side screw, and screw the bolts back up?

I don't think it's from the locktite, and only the black screw had a bit of locktite. These were pretty loud sounds. I do use a quality torque wrench by the way, don't trust myself at all otherwise.

Regarding the silver screw. I was just wondering why they replaced that when the bike was three weeks old when I got it. Maybe something went wrong.

The screw which goes there you mean:

7A9FD76A-4174-4FE3-B3CB-F54FCCA49348.jpeg
Don't get me wrong and please no heartfeelings.
With your very limited technical understanding, I would highly recommend to take your bike to your LBS.
No hard feelings, I am aware of my limitations. I mean, I have changed many stems before but never have I seen a separete screw other than preload that has any kind of effect on the steerer. Other than the two which tighten the stem to the steerer.

I am going next week to my LBS anyway, and I'll let them check that as they are going to change the hadlebar.
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022

Roadbiker10
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2021 8:22 am

by Roadbiker10

I removed the stem again too look at the steerer. Does this look normal?

And what is the torque for the side screw?
E373FBB3-62AF-499D-A68C-05B927653AC9.jpeg
579E37ED-A908-49B5-89B4-21D45ADB6760.jpeg
1C61E5E7-233A-4B1D-9811-05F03330D18B.jpeg
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022

pmprego
Posts: 2513
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 3:16 pm

by pmprego

I guess unintentionally you were able to focus on the spacers but not so much on the steerer.

Roadbiker10
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2021 8:22 am

by Roadbiker10

Yeah, didn't take great pics. Do you happen to know the torque needed for the side screw on the stem? I read 5-6nm in the thread but I'm not sure they meant that screw. I still have it undone since I can't tighten the two stem screws before doing that side one up.
F5E27A70-E4E8-4A5A-9CF0-A3392B096EE5.png
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022

Addict15
Posts: 100
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2021 1:29 am

by Addict15

Roadbiker10 wrote:Do you happen to know the torque needed for the side screw on the stem? I read 5-6nm in the thread but I'm not sure they meant that screw. I still have it undone since I can't tighten the two stem screws before doing that side one up.
I think the torque spec for all of them is 5nm and you should start with the bolt on the side. This bolt and the metal piece do need to be there for the stem to clamp properly, could be that’s what caused the cracking noise of the bolts. I also found that it’s not possible to fit the stem cap at the back if you don’t tighten the front left bolt first. The pics aren’t very clear indeed but I don’t see any damage based on that.

Roadbiker10
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2021 8:22 am

by Roadbiker10

Addict15 wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 4:54 pm
Roadbiker10 wrote:Do you happen to know the torque needed for the side screw on the stem? I read 5-6nm in the thread but I'm not sure they meant that screw. I still have it undone since I can't tighten the two stem screws before doing that side one up.
I think the torque spec for all of them is 5nm and you should start with the bolt on the side. This bolt and the metal piece do need to be there for the stem to clamp properly, could be that’s what caused the cracking noise of the bolts. I also found that it’s not possible to fit the stem cap at the back if you don’t tighten the front left bolt first. The pics aren’t very clear indeed but I don’t see any damage based on that.
Thanks. I thought at first that the side screw's only function was to hold that metal piece in place, which enables you to remove the stem completely without having to remove cables. Now I understand.

I didn't even try to put the stem cap back on. Because the bike is awaiting a handlebar change, so I thought why bother putting the plastic bits on. I shouldn't have touched the side bolt though. Now I learned that at least.

So I just did it all up the right way and same thing. Maybe the noise was less loud though. The creaking was also there when tightening the side screw, but to a lesser degree.

Do you think I should be worried? And in case something is wrong. Could it be something else other than the steerer? I don't see any cracks or anything. I also did lube the screws.
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022

Roadbiker10
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2021 8:22 am

by Roadbiker10

Would it be possible to leave a bit more hydraulic cable length in case I need a 120mm stem instead of 110? Or would it be a better option to leave the hadlebar swap for after I'm sure which stem length I will need?

I mean in terms of how exact does the length have to be with internal routing like this?
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022

pmprego
Posts: 2513
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 3:16 pm

by pmprego

Roadbiker10 wrote:
Thu Jan 20, 2022 11:15 pm
Would it be possible to leave a bit more hydraulic cable length in case I need a 120mm stem instead of 110? Or would it be a better option to leave the hadlebar swap for after I'm sure which stem length I will need?

I mean in terms of how exact does the length have to be with internal routing like this?
If you swap the handlebar you'll always have to cut the hoses a bit. Safer to do it just once.

Roadbiker10
Posts: 495
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 2021 8:22 am

by Roadbiker10

pmprego wrote:
Fri Jan 21, 2022 8:52 am
Roadbiker10 wrote:
Thu Jan 20, 2022 11:15 pm
Would it be possible to leave a bit more hydraulic cable length in case I need a 120mm stem instead of 110? Or would it be a better option to leave the hadlebar swap for after I'm sure which stem length I will need?

I mean in terms of how exact does the length have to be with internal routing like this?
If you swap the handlebar you'll always have to cut the hoses a bit. Safer to do it just once.
Yeah, I'm going from 42 to 38 so that's quite a bit that has to be cut. It will be done in a shop so definitely I won't want to pay again for them to cut it one cm. But how exact does it need to be? I mean what if you remove 1cm of spacers, does that also require cutting the cables again?

I will ask them if it's possible to leave 1cm more than what is optimal, but I just wanted to see if someone might have done that on here.

I know it would be better to first ride a bit and see what stem I need before changing bars but that's a couple of months away until I start riding it outside, so I would rather all major things be done before that time.

I definitely understand the headaches of hidden cables and proprietary parts now.🙂 They at least have to stop with the 250+g stems.
Scott Addict RC 20 2021
Ridley Kanzo Adventure 2022

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

www.starbike.com



gustavomagano
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2021 12:43 pm

by gustavomagano

i´ve got a 400mm ic bar new never used for sale mail me if youre interested gustavomagano@gmail.com

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