Campy BB clarification

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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biwa
Posts: 152
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2018 8:39 pm

by biwa

About to try the first Campy groupset (Chorus) after spending time with Shimano. A quick question on my understanding about their BB system.

Do I simply need a pair of BB cups (e.g. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/ ... -prod25576) to go with the crankset as the bearings (e.g. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/ ... -prod26127) are already on the cranks?

And then what is this (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/ ... -prod85637) for?

by Weenie


uraqt
Posts: 899
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:53 am

by uraqt

If it's the Chorus Ultra-Torque crank, and I am 99.99% sure it is, then you just need the cups to match your frames BB. Unless it's a Cervelo then there are issues with campy bbright cups and there are much better solutions for BBRight and Campy cranks.

C

ianeire
Posts: 99
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2011 2:08 pm
Location: Dublin, Ireland

by ianeire

If you're buying the groupset new then the cups probably already come as part of the whole package. But your understanding is correct. The whole system when on the bike looks like the Shimano HollowtechII set up, but where the bearing for Shimano comes pressed into the cup, the bearings on Campy UT and PT are pressed on to both cranks and then seated in the cups during installation.

The square taper BB is for square taper cranks which you won't have unless looking at an old groupset.

1415chris
Posts: 1290
Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:59 am
Location: Surrey UK

by 1415chris

A bit of clarification.
PT's spindle is one piece attached to DS, in UT two piece spindle attached to both sides.
As a result in UT bearings are pressed on the spindle on both DS and NDS sides. In PT only DS side comes with the pressed on bearing. DS side bearing is pressed in the bb cup.

AJS914
Posts: 3534
Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm

by AJS914

biwa wrote:
Sat Jun 08, 2019 6:07 am
About to try the first Campy groupset (Chorus) after spending time with Shimano. A quick question on my understanding about their BB system.

Do I simply need a pair of BB cups (e.g. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/ ... -prod25576) to go with the crankset as the bearings (e.g. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/ ... -prod26127) are already on the cranks?

And then what is this (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/ ... -prod85637) for?

Correct. You just need cups. The bearings in your 2nd link are replacement bearings.

The bottom bracket in your last link is for older pre-Ultra Torque 9/10 speed cranksets.

biwa
Posts: 152
Joined: Fri Sep 21, 2018 8:39 pm

by biwa

Thanks everyone for the confirmation

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

There are different versions of ultra torque cups for different bb standards.

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Miller
Posts: 1637
Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:54 pm
Location: Reading, UK

by Miller

biwa wrote:
Sat Jun 08, 2019 6:07 am
And then what is this (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/ ... -prod85637) for?
OMG I feel old. I spent decades cycling on bikes with square taper bottom brackets. Now some young person doesn't even recognise what it is.

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Calnago
Posts: 8608
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Ha, pretty funny... and let’s not forget the time before “cartridge bottom brackets” when there was just loose bearings against the axle cone and the inside of the cup. When Italian threaded BB’s would unscrew themselves if they weren’t tight enough. Yes, I guess I’ve been around awhile... ha.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

Look565w
Posts: 222
Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 1:25 am
Location: West of Scotland

by Look565w

Calnago wrote:
Mon Jun 10, 2019 6:32 am
Ha, pretty funny... and let’s not forget the time before “cartridge bottom brackets” when there was just loose bearings against the axle cone and the inside of the cup. When Italian threaded BB’s would unscrew themselves if they weren’t tight enough. Yes, I guess I’ve been around awhile... ha.
Funny you should mentioned that, Calnago, that's exactly what happened when I rode my Arabesque last Friday :shock:

Started the ride with a noisey chain (chain rubbing the cage) ......... then 25km later & going up a slight hill, the crank seized up. Stopped & look down to see this:

Image

Made it home with the bike in the back of the taxis & took these photos:

Image

The cup on the non-drive side have also somehow "screwed it self" into the BB shell :shock: forcing the inside face of my ND side crank to jammed against the edge of the BB, causing score marks ........... ouch! :(

Image

Now bought a lock-ring tool with a 1/2 inch attachment slot so I can attach it to my torque wrench to give it the 70nm torque (which I didn't do in my initail installation ........ school boy error) that's recommended ....... lesson learnt! :oops:

Now, hopefully the damn thing will stay in place!

Karvalo
Posts: 744
Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2018 6:40 pm

by Karvalo

Wow. I understand (kinda) the flaw in ITA vs BSA thread direction but always thought it was more of a theoretical effect, not strong enough to cause real world problems!

by Weenie


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Calnago
Posts: 8608
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

I rode a 1991 Basso Loto across the southern US in 1996. Somewhere in Texas the BB started unscrewing on the drive side. Had to just keep screwing it back in as best I could with whatever I could find until we got to San Antonio where I could finally get access to a proper tool to tighten it down. It’s the process of “precession”. It is very real. What happens is the loose bearings are rotating between two surfaces, the axle itself and the inside of the screwed in cups. If you think about the direction of rotation of the actual surfaces on each other, you’ll see that between the bearing and the inside surface of the cup the rotational force of the bearing is “lefty loosy”. So... in the absence of a left hand thread (like there is in English BB shells), if the cup isn’t tight enough it will eventually walk itself out.
In your case I’d clean up the threads and use a threadlocker and maybe 50Nm of torque. I think I’d use Loctite 222 (low strength) first, keep an eye on it, and if it doesn’t walk back out you’re golden. If it does, then go up to Loctite 242 threadlocker (med strength). And don’t confuse threadlockers with retaining compounds. Back in those days I don’t know that anyone would have even heard of using any of these things on a bicycle (grease was universally used on pretty much everything). Now we have threadlockers, retaining compounds, anti seize pastes, carbon paste, etc., etc.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

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