Frame too large.

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
User avatar
Lewn777
Posts: 809
Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 5:35 am

by Lewn777

deepakvrao wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 3:43 pm
Lewn777 wrote:
Mon May 20, 2019 2:19 pm
alcatraz wrote:
Mon May 20, 2019 1:22 pm
I read somewhere that it's hard to say what is more stable/twitchy. A smaller frame with longer stem or larger frame with shorter stem.

Because the larger frame has greater wheelbase it maybe counteracts the twitchyness of a short stem, and vice versa. Something like that...
That sounds logical actuallly. But I think the speed you're riding at will have a big effect. Very fast sweeping turns are proabably much better with a longer stem, but slower technical turns like mountain switchbacks could be preferable with a shorter stem.

I still think if possible go with a recommended frameset size or go one smaller and ideally put a 100-120mm stem on it, aesthetically it doesn't look to be riding a farmyard gate with almost no seatpost visible. But I suppose it's better than buying an entire new frameset if it works. :thumbup:
For fast turns, does one actually turn the handlebar?
Not over 30km/h or so, but that's when countersteering starts. So yes, and no.

PrimO
Posts: 103
Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:49 pm

by PrimO

From your pictures it looks like you have the correct size frame for you, anything smaller and you are going to be very cramped.

Your sadlle may be slightly too high so drop it 5-10mm (which will in turn reduce reach slightly) and try that for a few weeks.

You need to give any changes you make to the bike 3 or 4 weeks (maybe 8-10 rides) before you know if they suit you or not.

In my opinon a lot of your issues are down to your own fitness and flexability. Work on those and comfort on your bike will follow.

by Weenie


User avatar
ALAN Carbon+
Posts: 277
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 9:21 am
Location: Canberra, Australia

by ALAN Carbon+

As was previously mentioned I think you can make some adjustments to your bars and shifters that will achieve a slightly shorter reach.

I would roll the bars down a touch and then mount the shifters higher. At the moment they are mounted on the furthest point of the bar.
How-to-set-up-drop-handlebars-4-1080x720.jpg
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk


Methodical
Posts: 96
Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2018 11:40 pm

by Methodical

victorduraace wrote:
Mon May 20, 2019 8:43 am
I like the bike and just wonder if I should try 90-->>70mn stem first or will it mess up the handling. Or maybe I will get used to it?
I went from 90-80 stem and it took little time to get use to it; it's a bit more twitchy though, but nothing too scary for me because it made me much more comfy on the bike. For whatever reason, I seemed too stretched out with the 90 last season and my traps and neck were always sore after rides, but I had been good with the 90 for the past 6 years, so something changed. Anyway, I am much more comfortable with no traps or neck pain and I can ride in the drops with no discomfort with the 80. I just built another bike, but this time I went with a 52 frame (I'm between 52-54); instead of a 54. The geometry is pretty similar to the 54cm frame. I'm 5'7" and have some non standard sizing issues, too. I get a fitted, but sometimes have to make small tweaks down the road. I make only 3-5mm tweaks.
"Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic"

Trek Emonda SLR (Rage Red) - 6.27kg
'12 Trek Madone (Black) - 6.96kg
Fujee Espree (Maroon) - 11.02kg

victorduraace
Posts: 269
Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 10:10 pm

by victorduraace

I am much better now with 70mm and saddle in proper position. I think 50mm fork rake somehow mitigated the twitchiness the stem gives

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post