All, some judder and a slight rough patch on the brake track. Advice please?
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Judder under braking Meilenstein
Moderator: robbosmans
Make sure your brake caliper is tight. I had some grabbiness on my Farsports wheels and resetting the pads with just a very slight amount of toe out did wonders.
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Even with Lightweight pads you will still end up with brake pad residue. Just cleaned my lightweights after a ride last night, albeit a long one. ( Everest Challenge) and this is what came off.
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First, like @kcookie says, do a “deep clean” on the brake track. And make sure your pads are in good shape. Use whatever it takes, but really clean it up with the harsh product of your choice and a good amount of elbow grease. That has worked for me on a set of Lightweights where the braking was really terrible, even with brand new Lightweight pads.
The “judder” you speak of isn’t the result of out of true rims, is it? Lightweights are often not perfectly true, and there’s nothing you can do about that, so you may get a pulsing effect if you try to feather the braking, which essentially means there is zero modulation available. If a wheel “grabs” anywhere in the rotation, then by definition there is zero modulation.
And then there is what I think you might be experiencing, and on another set of Lightweights I have simply given up trying to resolve it. The grabbiness is very pronounced, yet the amount of untrueness doesn’t warrant how bad it is. If they were mine I couldn’t ride them. The only thing I can think of is that somewhere along the way they got overheated and something changed. Maybe some residue actually got melted into the brake track. If you look really closely they seem to be quite “porous” for lack of a better word. Tiny openings in the weave that can definitely become home to grit and contaminants. Cleaning helps, but I wonder if overheating might permanently bond some contaminants within these micropores and be the root cause of your judders, in which case I have not found a solution for.
The last thing, which I should probably have listed as the first thing is that I’m assuming your brakes are adjusted properly. You could experiment with a lot of toe-in to make sure it isn’t that, and make sure your calipers are mounted tight and solid to the frame.
The “judder” you speak of isn’t the result of out of true rims, is it? Lightweights are often not perfectly true, and there’s nothing you can do about that, so you may get a pulsing effect if you try to feather the braking, which essentially means there is zero modulation available. If a wheel “grabs” anywhere in the rotation, then by definition there is zero modulation.
And then there is what I think you might be experiencing, and on another set of Lightweights I have simply given up trying to resolve it. The grabbiness is very pronounced, yet the amount of untrueness doesn’t warrant how bad it is. If they were mine I couldn’t ride them. The only thing I can think of is that somewhere along the way they got overheated and something changed. Maybe some residue actually got melted into the brake track. If you look really closely they seem to be quite “porous” for lack of a better word. Tiny openings in the weave that can definitely become home to grit and contaminants. Cleaning helps, but I wonder if overheating might permanently bond some contaminants within these micropores and be the root cause of your judders, in which case I have not found a solution for.
The last thing, which I should probably have listed as the first thing is that I’m assuming your brakes are adjusted properly. You could experiment with a lot of toe-in to make sure it isn’t that, and make sure your calipers are mounted tight and solid to the frame.
Last edited by Calnago on Sun May 19, 2019 2:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Pads are LW and the callipers and pads properly adjusted. I suspect the issue is the rough patch which, as you say, is a section of brake track that is not quite flush with the rest and rough too. Have deep cleaned. This helped a little.
Will put up with it until winter then send back to LW.
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Will put up with it until winter then send back to LW.
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Just curious... have you been the only owner? And if so, have there been any times that you recall where you think you might have cooked the rims a bit more than you’d have liked?
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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The brake track seems fine to me.
I cropped the part I think you’re tryin to show...
It looks like what I was trying to describe... if you can, blow it up and it looks like there’s big gaps in between the weaves. All kinds of crud and contaminants can get in there. Don’t know what to tell ya. Contact Lightweight.
It looks like what I was trying to describe... if you can, blow it up and it looks like there’s big gaps in between the weaves. All kinds of crud and contaminants can get in there. Don’t know what to tell ya. Contact Lightweight.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
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I' say the brake track is not in that great shape. Anytime the brake pad goes through that section, you'll have a change in the surface which will feel like a pulsation.
If you send the wheels to LW, they'll quote you a cost for re-doing the brake surface (they simply add about 1 mm thick carbon patch all across the brake surface.) It looks like you have one of the earlier Meilensteins (the logos are stickers instead of the laser etching) with older brake track. After the fix, you'll immediately feel the change in the brake performance. It is noticably better.
P.S. The problem is, LW arranges for the shipping both ways (shipping company comes and picks the wheels up from you). So the shipping is kind of expensive.
If you send the wheels to LW, they'll quote you a cost for re-doing the brake surface (they simply add about 1 mm thick carbon patch all across the brake surface.) It looks like you have one of the earlier Meilensteins (the logos are stickers instead of the laser etching) with older brake track. After the fix, you'll immediately feel the change in the brake performance. It is noticably better.
P.S. The problem is, LW arranges for the shipping both ways (shipping company comes and picks the wheels up from you). So the shipping is kind of expensive.
