Weight weenie choices that went too far?
Moderator: robbosmans
Same here. Crappy chinese bottle cages.
Oh! And Alligator Mini- Ilink 4mm shift housings (with internal routing ). Threw them away after a week .
I still have the same Ilink brake housings on my bike though, since 2013-14' I think.
Louis
Oh! And Alligator Mini- Ilink 4mm shift housings (with internal routing ). Threw them away after a week .
I still have the same Ilink brake housings on my bike though, since 2013-14' I think.
Louis
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Chrono aero bottles.. too small, lid sucks and they fall out if you hit a slight bump
The chinese bontrager xxx style 16gr bottle cages work great. Try them perhaps.
Having Conti supersonics for tube replacements, ended up tearing 2 on the valve while on the top of a mountain. Although it could be the pump's fault as it wasn't a hose one and had to force it in to inflate which probably ended up destroying the light tubes.
Were you using AX Lightness brakes? I didn't had to tie it on my EE brakes, just looping it one round around the clamp bolt. I did tried it on Engage Gravial brakes and had to get some clamp bolts and thread it through before tying, but that was OK as well. The brakes themselves are shit though.MNX1024 wrote:Power Cordz, it was great with shifting, but could never tie the not tight enough to make it work with the brakes....
Failures;
Ax Engage, KCNC and Ciamillo brakesets: horrible install and braking
Tufo tubes (very light ones); rubbish
Lightweight (one piece) cassette; terrible shifting
Succesful;
Lightweight saddles by Berk/Ax lightness
Lightweight carbon handlebars (exept ons chines version which I did not know)
Lightweight wheels (by Lightweight)
Everything Shimano DA/Di2
Brakelines from Jawire (Elite link)
Ax Engage, KCNC and Ciamillo brakesets: horrible install and braking
Tufo tubes (very light ones); rubbish
Lightweight (one piece) cassette; terrible shifting
Succesful;
Lightweight saddles by Berk/Ax lightness
Lightweight carbon handlebars (exept ons chines version which I did not know)
Lightweight wheels (by Lightweight)
Everything Shimano DA/Di2
Brakelines from Jawire (Elite link)
Canyon Aeroad CFR
Canyon Grail CF
Canyon Grail CF
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Swapping my saddle and seatpost topper for a tennis ball. Haven’t swapped it back and longest ride at 170km but I’m guessing most people would call it a mistake
Spring propel viewtopic.php?t=140915
Fall guru merus viewtopic.php?t=155877
Summer carver nonsense viewtopic.php?t=156795
Fall guru merus viewtopic.php?t=155877
Summer carver nonsense viewtopic.php?t=156795
Which Aican housing?MNX1024 wrote:AICAN housing, used it for both brake and shifting. Did the installation myself, and tried 3 different mechanics... None could get it to work properly for shifting. The best scenario was to choose between having horrible shifting and chain rub on the lowest or highest 3 gears..... Brake was okay, but not the best. Dealt with it for a whole season, which prompt me to trash it and go electronic. Never looked back after that.
Power Cordz, it was great with shifting, but could never tie the not tight enough to make it work with the brakes.... Pain in the behind to install. Went back to regular cables.....
Both option was a complete waste of money and time.
Dura Ace brakes. Everytime I squeeze down on the brakes, it slips. With or without a not.Kayrehn wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2019 8:48 am
Were you using AX Lightness brakes? I didn't had to tie it on my EE brakes, just looping it one round around the clamp bolt. I did tried it on Engage Gravial brakes and had to get some clamp bolts and thread it through before tying, but that was OK as well. The brakes themselves are shit though.
Aican Bungarus. Massive PITA every time you wanted to service anything, and prone to creaking and corrosion. Conti superlight inner tubes which came free with the tires I wanted. Ciamilo brakes, with as Ben Elton would put it "the sensitivity of a venitian sonnet" to any movement.
SRAM Red 1st Gen. Massive POS front shifting, which seemed to be random. From what people in Mallorca say, it hasnt changed much.....
SRAM Red 1st Gen. Massive POS front shifting, which seemed to be random. From what people in Mallorca say, it hasnt changed much.....
AX LIGHTNESS ORION BRAKES:
- You know that feeling, on a standard brand of brakes (Sram / Shimano / Campy) you would account that I should start pressing the brakes here. But w/ the AX, you will need to double that feeling or a great amount of distance to assure that when you break, is at that precise point that you have anticipated to stop
AX LIGHTNESS MORPHEUS CRANKSET:
Non – drive side of the crankset, just above were you install the pedals, needs more volume of carbon layup. Carbon is just coming undone due to the pedal strokes
EARLYIER AX LIGHTNESS FRAMES:
VIAL (1st generation), Alpha, S1 & Swift (Sculp) all of the rear derailleur hangers are glued on, once the glue comes undone, frame is practically useless, unless you want to convert it to a fix bike.
THM CLAVICLE SE CRANKSET (design flawed):
- Using it on an AX Vial Evo frame. None drive side of the cranks, I scratch my head & wonder why did THM, did not just apply the same axle diameter in the drive side as to the non-drive side. Instead they implement that spacer cone plastic to compensate for that missing diameter, as a result it does not spin freely as the standard crankset.
To sort a fix this problem, I noticed that spacer cone plastic diameter is wider than the drive side axle, so I sand it down. It spins more than before, but it’s still not at it’s potential.
https://www.thm.bike/en/spare-parts/cla ... se-61.html
- The bolt / plug that goes on the non-drive side, goes loose during rides. Came off the frame, luckily I was near a bikeshop, or else I would have been walking home.
THM FORK STEERING TUBE, (came w/ the AX frame):
- That whole system of not using a compression plug & implementing that sort a integrated plug. If you tighten it to some degree, you end up ripping off the threads of the steering tube. For some reason as well, when you tighten the top cap, it eats up the steering fork head (something is wrong with the carbon)
AICAN HOUSING:
- Rear shifting, to go 1 gear down, you need to shift down twice (Campy). With the brakes, they are ok and does the job.
CAMAGNOLO BRAND REAR HUBS (Campagnolo bora ultra):
- The springs to hold the pawls in place: you would think that in that area were so much action is taking place that they would Design this concept where there is a component that is sensitive and really can not handle the stress that cycling offers. This spring is holding the pawls that allows that rear wheel to spin when pedaling, when that gets damage, the pawls will not grip into the teeth’s of the free hub thus your not going nowhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-Ful ... SwlxRaWOqq
SCHMOLKE TLO CLINCHER RIMS:
- It’s so light that it can not hold speed. On my commute to work, there is a segment that I normally hit 29 on a ZIPP, but with these wheels, I could not go pass 25. Sold it and ended going back to ZIPP
It seems when a cycling part is light in weight, it goes hand in hand that it’s overall function / performance will be flawed!
LIGHTWEIGHT KEEPERS:
- Tune magnesium spacers
- Alligator I link housing (both)
- AX lightness brake pad holders, saddle, seat post cradle & yoke
- Schmolke headset top cap & bar end plugs & screws
- THM handlebars & stem
- Shimano titanium shifter clamps
- Tiso front derailleur
- Carbon TI carbon chainring
- You know that feeling, on a standard brand of brakes (Sram / Shimano / Campy) you would account that I should start pressing the brakes here. But w/ the AX, you will need to double that feeling or a great amount of distance to assure that when you break, is at that precise point that you have anticipated to stop
AX LIGHTNESS MORPHEUS CRANKSET:
Non – drive side of the crankset, just above were you install the pedals, needs more volume of carbon layup. Carbon is just coming undone due to the pedal strokes
EARLYIER AX LIGHTNESS FRAMES:
VIAL (1st generation), Alpha, S1 & Swift (Sculp) all of the rear derailleur hangers are glued on, once the glue comes undone, frame is practically useless, unless you want to convert it to a fix bike.
THM CLAVICLE SE CRANKSET (design flawed):
- Using it on an AX Vial Evo frame. None drive side of the cranks, I scratch my head & wonder why did THM, did not just apply the same axle diameter in the drive side as to the non-drive side. Instead they implement that spacer cone plastic to compensate for that missing diameter, as a result it does not spin freely as the standard crankset.
To sort a fix this problem, I noticed that spacer cone plastic diameter is wider than the drive side axle, so I sand it down. It spins more than before, but it’s still not at it’s potential.
https://www.thm.bike/en/spare-parts/cla ... se-61.html
- The bolt / plug that goes on the non-drive side, goes loose during rides. Came off the frame, luckily I was near a bikeshop, or else I would have been walking home.
THM FORK STEERING TUBE, (came w/ the AX frame):
- That whole system of not using a compression plug & implementing that sort a integrated plug. If you tighten it to some degree, you end up ripping off the threads of the steering tube. For some reason as well, when you tighten the top cap, it eats up the steering fork head (something is wrong with the carbon)
AICAN HOUSING:
- Rear shifting, to go 1 gear down, you need to shift down twice (Campy). With the brakes, they are ok and does the job.
CAMAGNOLO BRAND REAR HUBS (Campagnolo bora ultra):
- The springs to hold the pawls in place: you would think that in that area were so much action is taking place that they would Design this concept where there is a component that is sensitive and really can not handle the stress that cycling offers. This spring is holding the pawls that allows that rear wheel to spin when pedaling, when that gets damage, the pawls will not grip into the teeth’s of the free hub thus your not going nowhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-Ful ... SwlxRaWOqq
SCHMOLKE TLO CLINCHER RIMS:
- It’s so light that it can not hold speed. On my commute to work, there is a segment that I normally hit 29 on a ZIPP, but with these wheels, I could not go pass 25. Sold it and ended going back to ZIPP
It seems when a cycling part is light in weight, it goes hand in hand that it’s overall function / performance will be flawed!
LIGHTWEIGHT KEEPERS:
- Tune magnesium spacers
- Alligator I link housing (both)
- AX lightness brake pad holders, saddle, seat post cradle & yoke
- Schmolke headset top cap & bar end plugs & screws
- THM handlebars & stem
- Shimano titanium shifter clamps
- Tiso front derailleur
- Carbon TI carbon chainring
Interesting. Do you think that thm spacer is there to deal somehow with bb left/right misalignment?DEADRE wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2019 9:08 pmTHM CLAVICLE SE CRANKSET (design flawed):
- Using it on an AX Vial Evo frame. None drive side of the cranks, I scratch my head & wonder why did THM, did not just apply the same axle diameter in the drive side as to the non-drive side. Instead they implement that spacer cone plastic to compensate for that missing diameter, as a result it does not spin freely as the standard crankset.
To sort a fix this problem, I noticed that spacer cone plastic diameter is wider than the drive side axle, so I sand it down. It spins more than before, but it’s still not at it’s potential.
https://www.thm.bike/en/spare-parts/cla ... se-61.html
- The bolt / plug that goes on the non-drive side, goes loose during rides. Came off the frame, luckily I was near a bikeshop, or else I would have been walking home.
LIGHTWEIGHT KEEPERS:
- Shimano titanium shifter clamps
- Tiso front derailleur
- Carbon TI carbon chainring
How many km have your carborings done? I read that the alloy tooth ring can break. Have you had to be very careful with your rings?
Are the tiso front derailleurs still manufactured? I wonder how I could get my hands on one. The same goes for titanium shifter clamps (sram red).
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Complete bollox. Never had an issue with any Campag wheels in this regard.DEADRE wrote: ↑Thu May 16, 2019 9:08 pm
CAMAGNOLO BRAND REAR HUBS (Campagnolo bora ultra):
- The springs to hold the pawls in place: you would think that in that area were so much action is taking place that they would Design this concept where there is a component that is sensitive and really can not handle the stress that cycling offers. This spring is holding the pawls that allows that rear wheel to spin when pedaling, when that gets damage, the pawls will not grip into the teeth’s of the free hub thus your not going nowhere.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-Ful ... SwlxRaWOqq