Silca brand
Moderator: robbosmans
I have a Tattico pump on my frame and an Italian army knife nove in a Phone Wallet in my middle pocket.
It’s all good things.
It’s all good things.
Yep I love my tattico hand pump that I put in my pocket on all rides and also use for travel along with an SKS digital gauge.
My Italian army knife multitool is the best made of all of my multi tools and does not rust into a lump of useless shit.
The T-handle torque wrench is used often and works very well.
My saddle pack is styling and very functional.
I have other small bits all of which work well and are worth the money.
I have an old Blackburn floor pump with a Topeak brass chuck, no plans to buy a new floor pump.
My Italian army knife multitool is the best made of all of my multi tools and does not rust into a lump of useless shit.
The T-handle torque wrench is used often and works very well.
My saddle pack is styling and very functional.
I have other small bits all of which work well and are worth the money.
I have an old Blackburn floor pump with a Topeak brass chuck, no plans to buy a new floor pump.
Age and treachery shall overcome youth and skill
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When did Vittoria add graphene to their Latex tubes? I can't find any information on their site...
joshatsilca wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2019 7:25 pmVittoria makes the tubes using our aluminum valve stems at 42mm length. The vittoria latex is by far the class of the field today, especially now that it has some graphene in it and loses air at a fraction the rate of previous tubes of this type.nickf wrote: ↑Tue May 14, 2019 1:57 pmFrom their website.icantaffordcycling wrote: ↑Tue May 14, 2019 5:29 amHey Josh,
Why were the blog posts about the 105% rule and tire pressures taken down off of your website?
Also, is the silica latex tube actually just a rebranded Vittoria like some claim it to be?
"SILCA has partnered with Vittoria to create the highest quality, lowest rolling resistance, finest riding inner tube, sized for modern clincher tire setups."
I'm pretty sure you can still order NFS directly if you want: http://www.nixfrixshun.com/
I've always gotten mine from there. I don't know that there was much, if any difference between what Silca sold and regular NFS. I believe the question has been answered on velocipedesalon but not going to dig it up
Thanks for that.
Made an order with Nixfrixshun.
Made an order with Nixfrixshun.
I'll have a Google and see.kytyree wrote:I'm pretty sure you can still order NFS directly if you want: http://www.nixfrixshun.com/
I've always gotten mine from there. I don't know that there was much, if any difference between what Silca sold and regular NFS. I believe the question has been answered on velocipedesalon but not going to dig it up
Thanks for the link!
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Here we go again about home brew chain lube...
All good and to each his/her own but I laugh at the ways in which we can make something as simple as chain lube a complicated ritual. Make up homebrew lubes! Wax your chain in a crockpot (but don't forget the ultrasonic cleaning!)
All good and to each his/her own but I laugh at the ways in which we can make something as simple as chain lube a complicated ritual. Make up homebrew lubes! Wax your chain in a crockpot (but don't forget the ultrasonic cleaning!)
Age and treachery shall overcome youth and skill
I don't have any particular complicated rituals in that regard, but simjply a bunch of bikes that needs to be lubed, best way possible, as cheap as possible, with as little time spent per bike as possible.
That means making lube myself, as the ones commercially offered that are satisfying the above, are ridiculously expensive, for nothing particular, and most dry lubes contains Xylene, no thanks!
So no, there's no cracpottery to this from my side, but simply a matter of a practical solution.
If you feel like paying through the nose for a simple mix of parafines and EP additives, by all means continue to do so.
That means making lube myself, as the ones commercially offered that are satisfying the above, are ridiculously expensive, for nothing particular, and most dry lubes contains Xylene, no thanks!
So no, there's no cracpottery to this from my side, but simply a matter of a practical solution.
If you feel like paying through the nose for a simple mix of parafines and EP additives, by all means continue to do so.
Have to say although I'm not a fan of the 'chuck' on my vintage (well 90s) track pump it works as well now as the day I got it. I realise also that a modern silca is probably no way related to the pump I had. I remember buying it because it was the cheapest available, which I don't think applies to modern silca products.
If NFS works better, all you can conclude is, that you didn't manage to make chain lubricant.
Unless NFS has some kind of magic ingredient, which they have chosen not to make any significant income from, and decided to keep it a secret to the industrial world, which I dare to claim is highly unlikely, there are not that many ways to skin a cat, so to speak.
You get 95% of the load bearing from simply mixing parafine wax and parafine oil.
For summer use, more wax can be added, especially if you're willing to heat it up, and dip the chain.
The last 5% you get from EP additives. The easy solution to get that, is to buy EP additives for engine oil.
The above mix is dirt cheap, and from a performance point of view, extremely hard to beat.
1 liter is something to the tune of $10.
If you bother hot lubing, you have no solvents, and the amount of time spent cleaning the rest of the drivetrain, diminishes significantly, and the drivetrain remains clean longer.
This in return increases the lifespan of the chain, which to a large degree dictates the life span of the cassette and the rest of the drivetrain as well.
Unless NFS has some kind of magic ingredient, which they have chosen not to make any significant income from, and decided to keep it a secret to the industrial world, which I dare to claim is highly unlikely, there are not that many ways to skin a cat, so to speak.
You get 95% of the load bearing from simply mixing parafine wax and parafine oil.
For summer use, more wax can be added, especially if you're willing to heat it up, and dip the chain.
The last 5% you get from EP additives. The easy solution to get that, is to buy EP additives for engine oil.
The above mix is dirt cheap, and from a performance point of view, extremely hard to beat.
1 liter is something to the tune of $10.
If you bother hot lubing, you have no solvents, and the amount of time spent cleaning the rest of the drivetrain, diminishes significantly, and the drivetrain remains clean longer.
This in return increases the lifespan of the chain, which to a large degree dictates the life span of the cassette and the rest of the drivetrain as well.
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Waxing is definitely frontloaded in terms of time spent, but once you do clean off the factory grease it’s actually a time saver IMO.otoman wrote: ↑Fri May 17, 2019 6:38 pmHere we go again about home brew chain lube...
All good and to each his/her own but I laugh at the ways in which we can make something as simple as chain lube a complicated ritual. Make up homebrew lubes! Wax your chain in a crockpot (but don't forget the ultrasonic cleaning!)
1) I wax 4-5 chains at once and keep another on the bike. This takes no extra time and it means I have 8-10 weeks worth of riding before I need to repeat the process. It’s a passive thing too. You drop all the chains into the pot, turn it on, do something else for a couple hours, turn it off, let it cool from 200F to about 150F, pull the chains out.
2) Since the 5-6 chains are wearing evenly, my cassettes and chainrings also last longer.
3) No mess. While some wax does build up on the cassette and chainring teeth, it is not greasy. The drivetrain never needs to be degreased or wiped down other than brushing some wax flakes off the chainstay and face of the big chainring.
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