Campagnolo Hyperon 1st generation rear hub play

[micky]

Hey guys,

I've from a few years a pair of Campagnolo Hyperon wheels which I use as my daily wheelset but last year it started to make (chain) noise in the rear.
The hub is the first generation with the plastic case (please see the picture at the bottom).
At first I thought it was a worn out cassette, so I replaced it, but no change.
I noticed that by holding the cassette on the edges it would move, so I tried to switch freehub, but the play was still there.
I took off the freehub and I noticed that the axle had some play; together with a friend I tried to adjust the play with the bold on the side but there's always a little play.
Once you put back on the cassette, there's still that latelal play of a few mm.
I understand that it can't be "locked" and there's must be a very minor play, but in this situation the chain would annoyingly tick like if it's not properly adjusted.

Before purchasing expensive kits like bearings etc, any first hand experience that might help?
Thanks.

[Antoine]

I have a pair Neutron ultra, I think most Campagnolo hubs are similar, they are easy to maintain
it's ball bearing rings like Shimano wheels so you can easily adjust the play, unlike the axle or the bearings are worn out
You should find how to do it on the Campagnolo web site : https://www.campagnolo.com/FR/fr/Assist ... campagnolo

[Roel W]

I understand that it can't be "locked" and there's must be a very minor play, but in this situation the chain would annoyingly tick like if it's not properly adjusted.

I don't understand. These hubs have cup and cone bearings and have the same construction and components as Neutron, Record hubs, Bora, Zonda and even latest generation Bora WTO and many Fulcrum wheels. Easy to maintain and very reliable. I have multiple sets of Neutron just because they are light, reliable, and easy to service and their smooth rolling bearing system.
Unlike many other and older systems where the cone must be locked by fixing 2 bolts, Campagnolo hubs cone can be locked with a small hex (Ithink it was 3mm) which allows for a very secure and fine adjustment.
In this spare part catalogue, the cone lockring is part HB-NE019:
https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/ ... agnolo.pdf

Check also this maintenance manual:
https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/ ... 17_ENG.pdf

Keep in mind that the freehub is placed on the axle and the position to the axle cannot be adjusted. Position of the axle to the wheel can be adjusted by the cup and cone system. If the axle is properly adjusted (a minor play to allow smooth rolling but not too much and neither too tight), then the freehub should also be in the optimal position.
So in your case, if there's play on the freehub, there should be also play on the whole wheel when placed in the bike. Then cup and cone adjustment will resolve your problem.
If not (only play on the freehub and not on the wheel when placed in the bike), then your cup and cone adjustment won't help and there's something wrong with the freehub parts.

But maybe watching this video can be most usefull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMlARo8AiFM&t=154s

[ghisallo2003]

Hi Micky

I have a set of these wheels also: a legendary set of wheels and kudos for riding them as everyday wheels.

I would suggest that you try to establish whether it is the free hub or the axle that is creating the movement. Neither should - but both can. The axle movement as I am sure you know is adjusted by adjusting the position of the non-drive set tension underneath the black cap. It should be possible to remove any movement and yet have free oving rotation. If not, then the bearings and ultimately cup and cone can be replaced, though cup removal is one for the Pro-shop I think, as it is trivial with the right tools, and hard without - I got GFK to do mine.

There should not be movement specifically in the freehub but I do find that this does creep in with well-used wheels. If you think about the construction of how the freehub has an interference fit on the axle, then movement could be from the free hub bearings (in theory non-replaceable) or at the pawl interface. I think that if a new freehub did not change things, then I might think about the ratchet ring: again, replaceable but one for the pro-shop.

[micky]

Cheers guys!
I will double check once again everything because it's driving me nuts to have such wheels parked here from months.